mrsmackpaul

Certainly got the full use out of those donuts I do read about people whacking the wedges with a hammer before taking the nut right off I have never had one fly off, only need to get a couple of wedges loose then rock the wheel a little and the other wedges just drop off Anyway, I do end up hot and bothered changing them, always have Paul

A few things to check before pulling it all apart Are tyres all the same size, not just the same number, get a tape and measure them On Mack bogies this is important as the power divider isnt a true power divider If the tyres are different in sizes you can here the tyres chirp when running empty Paul

Bloody piss poor excuse ha ha Must of been good and full of distractions As long as you had fun Paul

Looks like the mount has been broken for a long time, by the colour of the broken mount Paul

Bugger me, that's a lotta grinding Paul

Not unless it is really screwed and bits are everywhere But if it's that bad you wouldn't be able to drive it I just read Joey's reply, exactly as Joey said Joey knows more about these than me, but common sense will get you 99% of the way Paul

Very classy ride Paul

It was a much better world when people just did what they were meant to do Or at least in my mind it was Was only telling some yesterday how excited my sister was when we got a colour T.V. We sure lived a good and simple life once Coonskin hat is cool, only ever saw them on T.V. in Australia due to the distinct lack of raccoons Didn't stop me dreaming of waking one Christmas morning and finding one under the tree Paul

Well when you get done with that, do as Joey suggests Yank it out, plonk it on it's bell housing and lift the sections off It will be pretty obvious if something is wrong And no I have never worked on one, bit gears are gears, it will be obvious if something is wrong Paul

This is a problem that you wont have out here, Australian trees dont loose their leaves in Autumn or fall as you blokes call it Only imported stuff from the northern hemisphere Paul

I dunno knothing about these modern Mack boxes However, on a older Maxitorque box I would say something has got in behind the sliding dog Has any covers been off the box and silasticed the lid on This can force the silastic inside the box It then drops off and the transmission and the transmission pump picks it up pumps it into the sliding dog Due to shape of the gears it gets stuck there and prevents the dog sliding all the way in Simple to fix, pull box out, stand on bell housing, lift apart, pull shafts amd gears out, clean crap out, put back together with proper gaskets and no sticky crap Just takes a lor of time Is this possible on these modern Syncro range changes Paul

That's my standard plan for everything in life, start off with the worst job and then my day just gets better Paul

Sounds like a great time was had Paul

This MP8 has some pretty impressive figures, and on Road Train work as well, so it's gunna be on full noise most of it's life I reckon the E7 gets up around these figures, and I have never heard a bad word about the E7 Paul

The good thing about these sleeves is it can.be done at home On long shafts on farm machinery I use a bit of water pipe get it on All this works well A lot of people put loctite on so the sleeve seals up 100% oil tight No matter whether it is loctite or permatex, I feel either would be fine and seal up all okay Paul

We still call them speedie sleeves out here On real badly worn shafts you can fill the groove with a 2 pack resin and emery smooth, then the speedie sleeve This gives the sleeve support Paul

Dunno about the torque curves, I think it will depend on what part of the world your chasing Australian and NewZealand Mack motors appear to of been rated slightly higher, dunno why I feel the E7 was the ducks nuts of Mack 6 cylinder motors, I only know about E6 motors and they are pretty bullet proof motor with a big set of balls I feel the E7 was even better Paul

I have had this happen, just a new seal and a O ring, if I remember correctly It may of been just a dust seal and a hydraulic pressure type of deal No matter, it was pretty simple either way Paul

One bloke mentions a rotary rasp on a grinder is the go, your more ofbody man than me Fiberglass (from very limited experience) is as hard as all get out I have never really tried to get it smooth like a motor vehicle smooth, I'm just rough and have no idea what I'm doing When my mate painted my truck he used a big (8 or 9 inch?) sander on the bonnet with really course paper and it tore right into it and took no time at all to rip into it, unlike me he does know what he was doing I remember watching him and thinking "I hope he knows what he is doing" Happy sanding Paul

Have a read of this link, might be sdome good ideas https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/best-tool-for-grinding-fiberglass.105680/

Dunno about this sanding much, you can get some really course paper to femove heaps quickly, 40 grit is the coasest I have seen Paul

The diagram above shoukd be fine Paul

Good to get back into it Paul

This should be close enough Deep reduction is on the second stick in this diagram When you say your low range isnt working Are you talking about high low - split or deep reduction If it is low range as you say then this should get things sorted Paul

1. Air Control Reference Locator 2. Air Control Select Lever 3. Gear Select Lever 4. Quick Release Valve 5. Exhaust 6. Reverse Shift Cylinder 7. Port No. 4 8. Port No. 3 9. Back-Up Switch (normally open) 10. Amber Indicator Light (on in reverse) 11. Pressure Reducing Valve (60 psi delivery) 12. Port No. 2 TRTXL1070, Serial Number 8S6798 and later 12. Hi/Direct Shift Cylinder 13. Pressure Reducing Valve (70 psi delivery) 14. Air Filter 15. Air Supply 16. Selectair Valve 17. Exhaust A. Section A - A B. Piston Port C. Pressure D. Exhaust 11. Port No. 1