mrsmackpaul

I think but do not hold me to this that as long as it has the right amount of studs and is a two valve head off a E6 it should be okay If the injector is stuffed as it probably (definitely) is now and you reckon the head might be as well, just take a die grinder to the remnants of the injector and carefully get stuck into it with a bur bit in the die grinder If nothing else you will learn a bit about it Dunno about changing the whole motor with another second hand motor You dunno what your buying, no matter how well intentioned the seller may be Everything you do to this motor now is a known quantity, chucking some other unknown quantity in is like throwing good money after bad to me Anyway thats my 2 cents worth Paul

Most people in Australia just clean the spider up when it is still on the axle Easier to rotate and handle Plenty of people used to buy rag tyres and store them for 12 months to harden up before using them, much better wear Dunno, it's all getting exciting as things progress Paul

Turn the knob back, as in twist I never new this as it rarely rains were I live so I just the wipers were rubbish for decades Sent the motor off to be rebuilt, refitted it and no different Phoned the bloke and he said to increase the pressure "Mate the trucks not gunna go any higher than a 115 psi" Turn the knob I was told, he had to really explain it to me What a result lol Paul

Cracking there is common but not normally a concern, don't over think this until you hear back from the place with your head, almost anything is repairable and the U.S. has a lot more heads than Australia ever had and I wouldn't be concerned about tracking one down in Australia Paul

Yes, your what I think is called "neutralizing" in a more modern transmission Think about it like this If both sticks are in neutral the in between the two sections stops spinning So of course to get any gear to line up you need to make one half of the transmission come to a complete stop Thats what happens when you stop So always keep one of the sticks in gear When shifting it is only in neutral on both sections for a split second, not like when you roll around a corner at walk pace Put a transmission brake in the mix and it becomes a real mess very quickly Paul

Brocky and Brockway lovers I have mentioned before about Brockway trucks been sold in Australia and I have found the add for them, if you can call it a add Must of been i.pressed as they wrote a poem UK Diesels appear to of been the importers which is a surprise So they were coming in in 1973 Paul

So damaged the rectifier then ? It clearly was damaged as a result of something that is still going wrong Don't want to damage the new rectifier or regulator Paul

Hmmmm, well back to testing then So the rectifier wasn't faulty, the regulator isn't faulty Paul

Not a truck and north America, although it does get a mention https://www.facebook.com/reel/134678686374402?mibextid=Vztt45 Let me know if the link doesn't work Paul

Im a few days late But I hope the duck had a great day, didn't get 36 light's on the Green Hornet for the big day, but got the Green Hornet back, well almost on the day Paul

So would I be correct in my understanding of this tilt tray The bumber bar light bracket doohickie has it's own hydraulic function and this also doubles as the feet or stabilizer to take the strain and stop the truck doing a wheel stand The big long ram on top pushes the tray back and gravity allows it to gently lower to the ground as point of balance changes as the tray slides back And I gather you have a hydraulic winch up the front as well in the floor of the tray Do I have any of this correct Tilt trays over there are a lot different than Australia Paul

That colour green is gunna hard to hide in from the law Paul

That's a heck of a big smile you have Enjoy the Green Hornet, so do you polish up the aluminium bits all shiny like ? Paul

Guessing is over now Looks like a collet broke, the bit the holds the valve in the valve spring keeper I have found this before on Mack E6 motor I would get the checked for cracks and make a plan from there Finding out the state of the head to me is important before making any decisions In the mean time, check everything else like push rods, cam etc and really try and nail down what is what while waiting to hear about the head Paul

Well thats good news you now no what has failed I agree with everything Geoff has said I guess a negtive ground rectifier could just mounted on some plastic isolators and still work fine if a positive ground unit is hard to come by Keep us posted on how this goes Paul

Geoff I agree with everything your saying Angelo had concerns about cost, and if changing something that isn't faulty dries up funds for what ever is faulty might not be a good outcome for him or the truck So testing and proving is essential to make the dollars go as far as they can for Angelo Paul

Yes there is Like the block rectifier, just find one with as close to the same values as the one you have These plate rectifiers aren't that dangerous, I guess to me it is like all the B.S. about split rims and the like Handled and been sensible they aren't a real issue There would be millions of plate rectifiers still operating around the world and well into the next 100 years I would imagine So to answer your question, yes of course you can replace it with block rectifier as you call it, find one with values a maybe 50 - 100% higher than you have as they aren't as forgiving to big back EMF surfes as a plate rectifier And you might need to (but unlikely to) put a capacitor across the D.C. to absorb any surges Remember I have no idea what other electrical stuff is on your truck, but guessing plenty of things with coils and these creat the EMF when been switched off But as far as I know you still haven't tested the rectifier so there is little point in changing yet Paul

No, rectifier is solid state I would think if you cooked it you would be able to tell The battery would of been boiling prettu hard for a while and Im guessing that was the smell Might pay to check water level in the battery if it was getting hot to touch it would of been bubbling pretty hard inside Paul

Welcome to the forum, apart from.a Flinstone Mack with a off set cab I can't you much But yeah a DM 600 Im pretty sure is what it is Paul

This a good point Geoff makes Try to find components as close to what you need But check the rectifier, it may have one crook diode that is allowing the voltage to creep up a bit Paul

This is important Angelo I think it won't of tested bad as the voltage is coming thru okay However Angelo you can test the rectifier easily even with just a test lamp Remember on the other side of the world so don't think I'm been rude if I dont answer as I'm asleep when your awake Paul

You need a test lamp, very basic old school type And a analog multi meter, nothing fancy, not digital If your not experienced a digital meter can lead you up the garden path very quickly This way when Geoff or someone else asks a question you can give a positive correct answer on exactly what you are looking at Also a couple of leads with alligator clips And if the budget can stretch a few more dollars, a set that plugs into your meter Now remember the golden rule, "always test the tester on a known supply" So test the test lamp on the battery, then test it on the ground your going to clip alligator clip to from the test lamp Once ground is established amd proven then test what ever it is with the probe Once found a reading that's a bit sus, recheck the tester encase the ground or tester has changed You don't need flash test gear and 99% of your faults will be found with a test lamp, thats all most workshops had back when this fire truck was built So keep it really simple Geoffs your man here, he is much much better with words than I am Paul

I have just the right hand side of this hanging on the office wall to explain to the apprentice about things like this Paul