mrsmackpaul

The best none return valves for these have a flat rubber disc and are maybe 1 1/4" OD Unfortunately I can't find these anymore, the newer ones (maybe 1" diameter, take a 15/16 spanner I think) are a half round ball that seats on a sharp edge I only need a speck of dirt under these and I have a leak Paul

You blokes, I dunno " It is more a way of describing a group of people that are okay and don't take them selves to seriously Aren't over precious and self opinionated, that enjoy a good laugh and are happy to laugh at them selves It isn't a bad thing at all, well at least were I'm from Language barrier between Stralian and Sepo I guess (Australian and American) Happy days everyone Paul

I have asked many times on here since I read about air dryers on here We (as in Australia as a whole) never ran them until maybe the late 90's or the 2000's The reason I asked was because I know nothing about them and I feel by their very name they must take the moisture out of the air I wondered if having one of these would help with the freezing Mack as far as I know come straight off the wet tank, I feel from what Geoff has said things are pretty much the same in the U.S. so running a good CLEAN compressor is important to reliability No joins as Geoff also said in air lines is also important The big air over air valve off the tank they run in Australia has funny sized O rings, not metric or imperial but metric seams to be the most workable I believe it is a Ingersoll valve I have installed a air filter from a Mack gear box between the wet tank and the none return valve as to me this is the weak point in the design, any speck of dirt stuck under a valve can cause issues I also only remotely fill the tank a seperare air fitting on the air system There is a air line fitting on the tank for filling but this also increases the chance of dirt getting in the system My starter got so worn the vanes would bind in the rotor and fully come out, I rebuilt this years ago and it works fine Nothing is cheap to do but our lack of use is probably the biggest down fall today Paul

As far as I am aware, so that means SFA early ones had a air over air system with a manual valve you operated, this opened a big air over air solenoid Then they had a push button on the dash like we all had for charging tje trailers Same deal, push that and the air over solenoid on the tank opens and it starts Then there was electric over air over air, this what most people would of seen Turn the key as normal to start a truck, a electric over air solenoid opetates, this operates the big air over air solenoid and the truck starts If the battery is flat you can stick a pen or screw driver in the electric solenoid and start it easily I believe that in sub zero Celsius temps they wouldn't be much good as I have found the big air solenoid on the tank freezes and I can't start at say 2 or 3 degrees Celsius or lower If this is likely to happen I wrap the big solenoid on the tank in rags the night before in a attempt to stop it freezing And even with a 3 start tank you might get 20 seconds of cranking, I dunno if a Mack would start at minus 30 or minus 40 in that time as I have never experienced that type of cold After 9.00.am before I could start this morning, air solenoid on the tank frozen Paul

As these two jokers have said, pull the floor out, pull the stick out Im guessing thr gear stick has slipped past a gate Should be relatively easy to correct as has been described already Paul

Have just learnt that these are RM 4874RX models Joey I think Europe and the Middle East were just as big and busy as Australia and NewZealand with the Mack brand Maybe not Europe but the Middle East had plenty Paul

I have learnt about these spreader trucks sold new in NewZealand with Scania motors Not my photos at all, believe Tony Jury photos ?? Paul

Mack still has rebuild kits for the starter, they have the solenoid and valves as well Paul

The biggest amount of major motor vehicle accidents I come across, and there's been to many of them in recent years, are people nodding off on cruise control and drifting into oncoming traffic Last bad one I found a sedan, full size job clipped a B douple between the fuel tank and drive axles Hit so hard it folded the aluminium rims in half, tore the drove axles out on the drivers side The tail shaft out of the truck was hundreds of meters up the road broken out of the uni The A trailer (first trailer) tri axles had folded over rims on the front two axles and the back trailer was untouched Truck driver had pulled fully off the bitumen Bloke in the car was in a mess amd had no idea what was going on, he had left Broken Hill that afternoon and I found them a few miles north of Hattah Bloke stuck in the car was trying to reach the outside door handle, it was missing as was the door skin, told him not worry about it, he was with it enough to tell me he had left Broken Hill that afternoon A bloody mess Stuff goes wrong so quickly and some times you can never put the pieces together again That was the second one of those I came across in 18 months Other one was on the road from Mildura to Robinvale, just as bad maybe worse, bloke in the car was gurgling pretty bad and bones were hanging out of his arm, that ine shocked me for a long time afterwards No phone reception in these spots so help is easily a hour or more away and theres not a lot we can fo to help some trapped, disconnect the battery and hope it doesn't catch fire Paul

Yeah, but I think a lot of things might of been a little touchy for them and I was bought up not to ask questions, a very different up bringing to people today Paul

I wonder if they have many full time workers? In Australia nearly everyone is casual these days unless they do government jobs then they don't even turn up as they like working from home Paul

To get the busted bolts out of my fiber glass bonnet we used a heat gun with a barrow tip Mal was on the heat gun and I was poised with tools in hand We got all the screws out of the grill, the steel in behind was stuffed but the big stainless screws that held the grill in all came out in one piece Also could MIG weld nuts on to the reaiming screws that have bits left and try the same deal Apply (your gunna laugh) candle wax to the hot screw or bolt and when it cools it sucks the wax in Either way, Mal anf I had them all out in a few hours Paul

I would be guessing it would be the same motor and transmission used on big block mopar/Dodge trucks in Australia No Eaton or Mack transmission, Turner or Dana But thats a pure guess and a custom bellhousing to suit the motor Paul

They should be good goers in Canada I would imagine Paul

Atkinson trucks made in Australia had fiberglass cabs, a fella that restored on had the cab soda blasted instead of sanding it all and was happy with the results Might be worth looking into Paul

The grill on my R model had bits of stell rusted inside the fiberglass, same sort of deal as you describe I cut it open in a none obvious spot, I had a grill to cover the opening I then made some stainless plates and threaded them to suit and inserted and fiberglassed them in place Works okay so far Paul

Is that the power steering reservoir above the rocker cover Are we sure it isn't leaking oil out of that and it's run all over the rocker cover and exhaust manifold, then onto the chassis rail, just following the trail of evidence from the top of the mess downwards If the exhaust had that much oil leaking out of it I can't imagine the turbo would be spooling very well And I reckon there would black exhaust smoke stain everywhere Anyway Sherlock Holmes will hang his magnifying glass up, but we do need to follow the evidence my dear Watson Paul

Im pretty sure they have a flat nose bulldog in the middle Now that I think about things, Mack in NewZealand I reckon sold a lot more of these than Australia Maybe give them a call, they would of all been made in NewZealand at the Mack factory at Palmerston North Give them a call and I reckon they could help Paul

Very true Geoff, they go off like a rocket, or at least that has been my experience I have a US Timken front axle from the 1940s in a old truck of mine, they just tap out super smooth Thinking we might of gone a little backwards since then Paul

Well the gasket is leaking between the two manifold sections I'm guessing you new that though Paul

In Australia it will definitely have a effect, the question is whether the effect is enough to change the gradeability to have a negative impact on the work that is wanted to be performed But I do agree with you Geoff, do the math and work it out There's a mob in Brisbane that will work it out at a cost and can if needed re certify the truck and replate it to provide a new GCM, this is normally only done when you want to increase the GCM from what it is plated at You can take the truck into any authorized person anywhere in Australia and they inspect the truck to confirm it is as stated, they forward the details onto the mob in Brisbane who then issues a plate stamped with the new details to be fitted by that dealer that inspected the truck Some dealers and truck modification specialists can also do this in house Paul

Something to consider before changing ratio is that the GCM in Australia takes into account a thing called "gradeabillity" not sure on the spelling But it is the ability to lift off (start on a steep hill) Our gearing in Australia can seem ridiculous compared to the US and Europe but the GCM in Australia has this very important part of maths in it Remember most prime movers (tractors in the U.S.) are rared for B double work were up around 70 ton (154000 lbs) GCM is pretty standard Changing the ratio will have a effect on this Paul

Welcome to the forum The Renault Macks never sold real well but I find most Mack dealers reasonably easy to deal with in Australia Not knowing what part of this wide brown land your from I can't really help you Depending on the vehicles age will depend on whether the chassis number or the vin number is used when chasing parts, would be thinking yours is most likely the vin number Depending on what your chasing will depend how you go, you have the build sheet and that is probably all you will get A workshop manual probably never existed, from my small Mack knowledge in Australia Mack used the next closest thing to a manual and there is all different manuals for different bits of the drive line etc I reckon Ebay in the UK would be the best place to start for the Renault side of the truck and to get a English version I would imagine for a cab over it will ride pretty good been a European based truck Paul

Rear axle, jack it up, grease up a long flat bit of wood, undo the nuts hold the axle, give it a whack and it should come loose Slide the axle out Back the brake off fully Lower the truck so the wheels are just touching the greased bit of wood Undo the bearing nuts Slide the hub, drum and wheels along greased up board as one whole unit Then pop the seal out, remove the grit guard if fitted and source parts To fit is the reverse Front hub I reckon you pop the cap in the center Paul