mrsmackpaul

Normally I put the genny circuit into the shed to keep the noise away from the house 100 feet is pretty long and you'll need a lot of cross sectional area on the cable to eliminate voltage drop Go big and them some for your lead as suggested or if you can run the inlet to the shed were you wanna sit the genny Ive run big long aerials on cattle stations (ranches) maybe the longest would be 1000 feet but voltage drop makes it pretty dear out the other end Voltage drop will burn motors out pretty quick so keep any eye on it if you can, 5% is the max by law out here, would assume the states are the same Paul

Apple pie, phtttty Try some good plum pudding, that'll put some lead in your pencil and also has the possibility to make you some coin Paul

My only advise here is to test all of this out before you need it Just to make sure it all works as expected as electricians are usually hard to get in a hurry Paul

For seamless transfer you need a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) not the pony express These are normally fitted to places that have a critical need for powet, hospitals, fir stations, police (some might suggest they have to much power already) controls for big plants, trains traffic lights and on and on But these are only fitted to the circuits that need these, they have enough battery back up for 3 or 4 hours and this encasethe genny doesnt start it gives the m3chanic a few hours to get things sorted Paul

Youve done well

Joey Im not gunna tell any joker what they should or shouldn't do So the common way of doing things in Australia is a change over switch, no one does what you are doing any more, to complicated for most people to fully understand The electrical trade is a licensed trade in Australia and it is a jailable offense for unlicensed people to do their own electrical work, rarely does it ever get that far, but plenty of people get fined each year So a couple of things to think about when Im yammering away here is our voltage is higher in Australia than the US so it is less forgiving when things go pare shaped Now to generator change over switches, so the way things are done The power goes out, you plug in and start the genny, open the switch board and flick one switch only, the switch is three position "MAINS" "OFF" GENERATOR" The switch is on mains, you simply push the handle down going straight past off to generator You now have power and lights running on generator in your house, there is no need to turn anything off, you cant feed back into the grid, the main switch stays on as does all the other breakers The supply is restored to your house from the grid, you simply go out to switch board and push the handle on the change over switch back the other way thru the "OFF" to mains The house is now fully on mains, the genny is still running, idle it back to let cool down and if it's petrol turn the fuel off and let it run out (Joe, you'll know all that part better than me but this how I describe it to people that I have just put a change over switch in and am showing them how to use it) Once the genny stops, unplug and roll the lead up, no need to switch anything else The limiting factor in running a house on a generator is the plug on the lead, 15 amp is the biggest type of plug we use in Australia for domestic type of situations, so that would be a 30 amp lead in the States as your voltage is half of Australia's and NewZealands Our power circuits are on 20 amp breakers and lighting is on 16 amp breakers We instal a breaker on generator inlet circuit of 20 amps, this to stop people over loading and melting the plug, even though it is rated at 15 amps running a 20 amp breaker allows for a short over load to stop nuisance tripping when electric motors start If people want more power for thier house we can install extra plugs and a three phase change over switch and they can run 15 amps per lead then which is more than most people will ever use This most importantly keeps it safe and it also keeps it simple and makes it idiot proof as well Even if I know how to switch the right switches and do it in the right sequence, what happens if something happens to me, when cyclone Yassi came thru in 2011 I ended up in hospital with a busted back and wrist so Princess and the boy were left to run the show So by having it simple to operate they can easily restore power and or carry on as normal if things go tits up else were Once again Im not saying Im right or the Australian way is right or better, this is just how we do it out here So a cyclone is the same as a hurricane except it spins the other way, like the water going down a plug hole, it spins the opposite way in the southern hemisphere, Yassi was big like Katrina all those years ago Paul

Im not gunna knock you for having a go at this build Keith, I think its a great idea Charm and romance Bob is in the eye of the beholder Keith youve done a great job, wondering why you mucked about with the hand brake when it would be easy to fit maxi cans to the back axle, not only easier but far more reliable and better holding power When I was looking thru your pictures of the back axle and oil seal the bit you thought was part of the oil seal is called a grit guard, it is a option on the Mack axles We use them in harsh conditions in Australia if we still run the original style seal, most people dont though and have changed to a different style of seal that the rubber grips the axle housing the rotating is done in the seal so axle never wears a groove http://www.newtruckspring.com/wholesale/mack-drive-axles-stemco-392-9094-grit-guard-wheel-seal/ Not to worry as your past that stage now Dont be shy to share updates as I enjoy different things including this ype of stuff I reckon most blokes on here would of changed to air ride back end when they had it as far apart as you did, much smoother to ride in Great build Paul

Yeah you can only advise some people As my mother says, "can't reason with someone thats been unreasonable" Not so many years ago we only switched the active in Australia but now change over switches must be double pole and switch the active and neutral Paul

And now that I'm looking, I have just noticed these are air start, there goes my "air start will be no good in the sub zero climate" theory Vlad you need a air start Mack A couple of photos and I'm loosung the plot 😂 Paul

I wonder if the intercooler bypass is for running not starting There must be temp when the air is to cold and gets to cold to be efficient, we will never see this in Australia but places like Canada and parts of north America and Europe and Vlads part of the world and up into Siberia this would be a issue I wonder if the 6x6 Macks Australia sent to Antarctica had the bypass ? A few were for sale recently, should of bought one just find out, didnt know anything about this then Sorry side tracked this thread, but the brain is running at 100 MPH now lol Is there anywhere the R model hasnt been, they must be the most versatile truck ever built Sorry I'll take myselfoff to the naughty corner lol It doesn't look like these are coolpower trucks Have never seen a chassis mounted intercooled Flinstone Mack Paul

Wouldn't mind a update Paul

We use a change over switch in Australia This flicking breakers as you blokes are doing is illegal in Australia as it is fraught with danger if people dont fully understand what they are doing A change over switch prevents this from happening Linesmen and electricians have been killed in Australia numerous times by people accidentally feeding the grid That been said I'm not casting any desperations or telling anyone what to do, just saying how it is out here When I put change over switches in and a generator inlet I will only put lights and power on the generator I leave one power outlet still hooked to the mains and if home owner plugs a radio in and leaves it turned on, when the power comes back on no matter if its in the middle of the night when everyone's asleep The radio comes on and alerts everyone the powers back on In some parts of Australia, like the tropics it isnt uncommon to loose power for a fortnight and most Australians have big deep freezers and it is always good to get the power going again for those to keep them frozen Anyway enough waffle from me Paul

Yep, that about sums it up It used to be really busy with all good jokes and laughter and heaps of people talking about trucks, new and old stories But then some jokers thought they we're more important than the rest and forum revolved around them and the rot set in I have seen it happen on another forum many years ago and that forum like this one has never returned to it's former glory Sadly a lot of good people are lost when this happens, as I think they no longer want to be associated with such rubbish It is left to a few desperados like pick up the pieces and carry on as best as we can This is a lesson for all of us, we, as in all forum members (new amd old) are responsible for the forum and we all need to do our bit to keep it going and try our best to stop the rot from ever setting in Paul

Yes it looks about right, there were different types and ones just like this Paul

Bugger me, thats no good at all It is funny how things hurry up unexpectedly as we mature, get well Tom Paul

You have full draft and no position control working Put it into full position control and see what happens Paul

Draft control isnt set right Paul

Brocky, that cab is highly modified 980 or 981 cab, a huge amount of work for a one piece wind screen Dunno if it still exists, guessing it went in the scrap bin long ago Paul

The Indian Listers, were called Metex for a while in Australia and then Field Marshall like the Pomy tractors, they were a good enough copy They missed out on the CS (cold start) head and chrome bore so could be a bugger to start when they get a bit of age on them A mate had them on his farm, I have only ever had CS Listers, singles and twins I wonder how it goes with the drum (barrel) of water for cooling in places that get bellow freezing for long periods They are surprisingly quiet for a big single cylinder diesel and I always felt the power rating was very conservitive My mate put a flex plate and starter motor off a car on his Metex copies and apart from a blown head gasket gave many decades of good service Paul

Well it's a fresh day so I flipped the lid and had a look to make sure I wasn't loosing the plot, after Christmas eve and Christmas day hangover anything is possible Now Im thinking that is just the hub or pulley number, so what fan and hub am I looking for to extract the extra few HP As you can see the fan is 24 inches, dunno if this is standard or they come in different sizes So does anyone know what I need to make this all happen ? Paul

What's a stick house, Im thinking 3 little pigs and a big bad wolf ?? Paul

Well it's new years day here now, stinking hot again, up near 100 or more today Was a good boy last night and made it to 11pm, woke up woth Miss Molly the gun shy border collie curled up on the floor beside the bed, she dont like them fire works at all Anyway truck pics These are photos of a much modified Diamond T in NewZealand Now this is a hot rodded Diamond T 980 or 981 This truck was created by a bloke by the name of Bob Corden from Kerikeri Engineering from Northland NewZealnd in the 1970's Is or was powered by a 250 Cummins, note the one piece windshield, custom guards, and everything else custom from front to back Apparently the consensus is the headlights are from a Nissan Cedric Now these arent my photos at all and must thank Hamish Petrie for these, some of you blokes will know of Hamish from Just Old Trucks Forum Anyway, hope everyone's heads aren't to sore in the new year Paul

Im gunna look into this Paul

So do I understand that you get 40 hp more over a conventional fan with no clutch My old bucket of bolts has never had a fan clutch from new, truck always runs cold, even when the air temp is well over 100 degrees on Im on full power all day Im always up for more power without cranking up the injector pump Paul

Sounds like a globe isnt in it's holder properly