mrsmackpaul

I dunno how good they are, I imported one to Australia a couple of years (maybe 5 if I think about it) for the AC The R model cab really boils me alive, but to this day it is all in boxes waiting for me to get my priorities right I read about on here that these provided the best in cab cooling for a factory fitted style look Now convert that price to Aussie dollars, then add a couple of gorillas for freight And think I have to cut it appart and change it all to make it RHD, I really am a idiot Just as well the Princess doesn't read this forum 😉 A good mate of mine and myself argue argue about which of us is the bigger idiot His wife reckons we are such idiots she made us tee shirts IIdiot "I" and idiot "II" Australia day a few years ago Paul

So these Maxicruise motors were like a Caterpillar motor in a Special Application crawler In certain gears the Cat injector pump opened up more to give better lugging in the paddock Special Application is the Caterpillar name for purpose built agriculture crawlers When using a farm tractor, farmers dont want to stop and change gear in a tight spot when working a paddock Companies like IH and John Deere made semi power shift transmissions, Cat made the injector pump open up a lot more in higher gears to pull thru tight spots So am I correct in thinking Maxicruise was for when cruise control was fitted to trucks, possibly when cruise control was on and (possibly only in some gears ?) it allowed more fuel to make more power to pull over rises etc ? I guess cruise control might work a little along the lines of, push the clutch or brake pedal and it switches off If it does then it might be pain in the bum Climbing a hill and you need to drop half a gear, you can't split a gear because even if you flick the switch on the stick the go pedal wont back off to allow that gear to release So you flick the switch, turn cruise off, the gear changes, then your foot is used to get the power down, then push the cruise button to finish climbing over that rise You pick up speed then you need to repeat the process to get back into top gear If this Maxicruise added say, 30% more power in top gear it would probably allow most hills to be climbed without dropping a gear So looking more closely at the brochure Maxicruise horsepower curve hangs on a lot longer in the revs, but has a lower power rating overall On the left it shows the transmissions best suited, as expected, Thermodyne needs plenty of gears Maxidyne needs only half the gears And Maxicruise is in between Very interesting everyone, Im a lot more educated now than I was a few days ago I had never heard of a Maxicruise motor until maybe a week ago Amd just look at how low reving a E7 is compared to a E6 The E6 is up near tje governor all day, the E7 is 500 rpm off the governor Thank you everyone, really interesting stuff Paul

I saw this brochure for Australia the other day The three options for the Australian E7 Thermodyne Maxicruise Maxidyne I have never heard of a the Maxicruise Was this in the U.S. as well ? Paul

A Mack back end doesn't have a normal power divider like a Eaton or Rockwell or any other brand This is why Macks are so good off road The power divider locks and lets go, sort of, check out this link and it will explain better than I ever can https://www.roadtrains.com.au/tech-tips/how-a-mack-power-divider-works/ So the up shot of it is, when you rotate tyres about you need to measure them, this isn't some hair brained skippy the bush kangaroo I have been in the sun to long bull crap, it is true So measure your 8 tyres on your back end Now match the into the closest matching sets of two you can make up So smallest set goes on the left rear, the second smallest set goes on the right front And of the biggest goes on the right rear and second biggest goes on the left front What this allows is, because you don't have a true interaxle power divider, this allows the diff centers to compensate for this Before bogie drives had power dividers at all this was a standard procedure Hope this helps Paul

Actually I kept on searching and some photos do load up, so get on the Google and have a look see Paul

There was a thread on the Cat forum mamy years ago called "steal track farming" lots of cool Cats on that As I remember, it was mainly from Washington State area ? I just googled and it was "Farming with Steel tracks" I cant get the photos to open up on my phone, here is a link https://www.acmoc.org/bb/discussion-d72/5309-pictures-farming-with-steel-tracks?start=0 I used to be fairly involved on the ACMOC forum for many years If you can get the photos to load up it's well worth the look Some screen shots of a search I just did, but when I go to open the link the photos aren't there Paul

Is it a Mack back end or something different ? Paul

I think your right It has landing legs, I don't think quick release turn tables were very common then, I don't know if the even existed Pneumatic tyres would of been pretty none existent on big trucks at that time All photos of tanker trailers of that era are rivited together None the less, this is a very cool little trailer and would look right at home hitched to something from the late 30s onwards Paul

2) answer is, all the same oil 1) I can look tomorrow if it is of any help Paul

Just email the photos to your self on your phone and then try to post then Emailing the photos reduces the detail but the photos are still fine Paul

I think I have mentioned this before, I can buy a tubeless rim and tyre for a spider hub, fitted for less than the cost of tyre, tube and rust band For me it is a no brainer, I don't do a lot of miles so it's easier to justify Paul

I have double coin on my low loader, they are okay Paul

I reckon they would of sold good out here if they were available Swishman Paul

Why you blokes are worried about global warming, just think what daylight savings does Tyres get a extra hour of UV every day over summer in the southern half of Australia 😃 Paul

Swishmab, the first big Flinstones were, as in the 800 series Paul

The Olympics are becoming insane! Last night I watched Strippers V's Ninja's

Gotta love the old Flintstones, getting pretty thin on the ground these days Paul

Tah muchly Swishman Paul

If every alleged person that died from a wheel coming apart was true, the worlds population would be at least half I must have been knocking around the luckiest people on earth as I have never known anyone thats had a rim come apart, this inculdes the tyre service in town that I have never even seen a tyre cage on the premises Anyway, I guess a ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, stay safe out there Or people just learn how to do things properly Maybe we should remove all the warning labels and just let mature take it's course As for torque on the nuts that hold the cleats on, I reckon Swishman has shared the actual Kenworth procedure and it isnt anywhere near as tight as we might think I've done some searching and so far found some directions on spiders from Swishman Im sure there's more but you get the drift Tight enough they don't come off and not to tight that they strip the thread And check every few miles after having a rim off, 3 or 4 times and check they are tight This isn't exactly rocket science Paul

So Swishman you have had the old M ride and or T ride for a few years now How do you find it Paul

Yes there was many years ago on hear that a tubeless rim came apart, was rusted out and gave a decent whack on the knee As far as the letting air out before mounting or removing from the hub I think on a steer this would make it more dangerous as the removable section is mow facing you Once a split/demountable rim is inflated and the beed is locked in they are as safe as a tubeless Possibly even safer, a lot more has to go wrong on tubed tyre and rim for them to come apart than a tubeless rim once a tube rim is inflated and locked together Paul

Welcome aboard There is a Facebook page dedicated to getting the best out of the Anthem If your on Facelessbook it may provide some interesting reading https://www.facebook.com/groups/2198506597074278/?ref=share&mibextid=adzO7l Paul

Oh behave your self 🤪, bugger me the years have flown by Paul

It pays to remember just how long ago the late 90's was To me it was only was yesterday, but machinery it is a 1/4 of a century Were did that go ?? I guess, don't be to critical of previous owners Paul

Some thoughts As Geoff Weeks would say, fix any air leaks first But if it doesn't leak air, change the compressor, rebuild kits are available for most compressors I personally dont stuff about rebuilding them and just put a tested reco compressor on As Joey said PAI have just about everything you will need Mack, in Australia at least has all or any rocker gear you will need If possible, I would have the heads rebuilt rather than put a a used set on A used set is a unknown, a rebuilt set should be as good as new I personally fix everything that is possibly wrong when I have it in bits, it's off the road sdo fix everything Paul