steeler

Ok removed egr pipe and fabricated a plate to block intake pipe. Still dumping the smoke but at least I've eliminated the egr valve.

No problem!

I know this is old, but check your air compressor. Remove intake pipe from compressor and blow shop air in it with engine oil dipstick removed. See if you are getting air into crankcase. I've seen more than a few compressors with a busted piston do this. ETA....Didn't notice this is an mp engine. Might not apply in your case if the compressor intake is plumbed into air cleaner pipe, and not boosted air.

Any malfunction light? May have blown ecu or vcu fuse. If you have good fuel from injector lines at cylinder head, it should run unless there is an electrical issue.

Adjust the intake valves and injectors on camshaft markings 1-6. Adjust exhaust valves on camshaft markings with a "v" before the number. Injectors are adjusted zero lash plus 4 flats.

As 689 said, the old tools with the tap and puller is the only way you're going to get that out. Unless your luck is like mine. I broke one off in a d12 because I got lazy and didn't get it tapped all the way through. When I tried to tap it the rest of the way, it fell into the cylinder. Had to pull the head.

Hi all, hoping for a little advise here. I'm working on an mp7 with excessive black smoke. Good power, runs fine, no boost leaks, just loads of black smoke under acceleration. Even stomping it in neutral will get a good puff of smoke. No dtcs. I've checked egr valve movement with vcads, compared boost, mass air readings to another truck of same engine. All readings are pretty much the same. It acts as if the egr valve is leaking/not closing all the way but I was hoping for another opinion or 2. I sure wish there was a way to block the egr off to verify before I go ripping her apart.

Something to think about, Remack basics don't come with injectors in them. So you could have the originals still in there if they weren't replaced with the engine.

Getting ready to tackle a leaky flywheel housing. Are there any worries of creating another leak behind the gear plate? Also I'm assuming the starter, pan, air comp, ps pump, and upper gear cover need to be removed as well? I've had training on this engine but Damn it's been awhile!

Thanks guys. After another service regen it finally set a fault code. Ran the diagnostics and it said it needs a reprogram. Off to the dealer

Hey guys, I'm working on a us10 mp7. I have a blinking regen switch with no malfunction light, but the truck will not initiate a regen with the switch. I did a service regen but it was taking forever and I was only getting 700 degrees exhaust temp. I ended up replacing the 7th injector, that got me up to 900 degrees. Still not hot enough although it will complete a regen now, still have the blinking switch. Any ideas?

Sounds like syncro going south. It will get worse, to the point it will not stay in High range.

Thanks guys, apparently there has been an issue with this on the Volvo side but none with mack, here locally at least. Until now. Lol

I have an 08 Gu with an mp7 in our shop that came in a few weeks ago with a completely clogged DOC. It had a large piece of cloth like material that had been partially burned up by the heat, causing it to shred and clog the DOC. Replaced blown out flex pipes, cleaned DOC, truck ran great for 3 weeks. Now its back again with the same issue. This time I realized the cloth like material was actually part of the inside of the flex pipe, the first flex from the turbo. Apparently there is 2 layers a flex with this cloth stuff in between. Anybody seen this happen before? I cant figure out why the pipe is coming apart. Everything went together tight and straight, no reason that I can see for this to happen?