steeler

It's a 2 valve. The valve cover is rounded, and has 3 mounting bolts on top of it vs a slanted valve cover with mounting bolts around the perimeter on the e7.

Looks like a like an e6 2 valve to me, by what I think I'm seeing with the valve cover.....

Id like to know as well. Ticks me off that mack doesn't use the low pressure sensor on the newer engines, just the aftertreatment fuel pressure. Actually the sensor is there on some, but nothing on the engine harness.

Idles at 900? Sounds like the infamous 6-4 fault. Any fault codes?

If there are 3 bolts holding the pump to block, it's an ambac, 4 studs with nuts would be the newer bosch.

I agree it sounds like could be fuel knock. Did you program the trim codes after new injectors? How about a learned data reset?

That's an ambac pump, correct? Our local pump shop we've used for years won't rebuild them anymore because of parts I assume. I'm sure you can find one somewhere though with enough searching. If it's an ambac, you don't need anything special to install it other than a rig to hold the gear while you torque the retaining nut, assuming the new pump comes without the gear installed...

That's good news. I'm sure the clogging is from the problem you already fixed. That explains the whacky temps you had.

I've had them almost completely face plugged and run fine power wise, just won't regen properly. Sometimes when that happens, you do a regen and the outlet temp skyrockets quickly from the excess soot basically "catching fire". You may not actually see anything at all, but the filter could still be clogged. I'd either have it and the doc checked, or replaced.

That outlet temp looks suspicious to me. Usually, not always, but usually when I see that the outlet temp is that much higher than the inlet I find the filter is clogged. Especially if it ran for awhile with the gunked up doser. So, the soot level will reset for you manually?

Oh HELL NO! I'd be super ticked off. As others have said, take it higher up. Still under warrantee you shouldn't have to pay a dime! The dealership I worked for I personally witnessed charging the customer, then filing warrantee for the repair and getting paid twice for the same job. There are some shady shops out there. I'm wondering if they missed something with the head, air compressor maybe? If they can't replace an egr cooler without everything leaking, I probably would find another dealer.

Those paint pen markings don't necessarily mean it's been into before. I've been seeing them on rockers that I know for a fact have never been touched. I've been seeing so many leaking cups lately that I've gotten really really lazy, to the point where if I don't see an obvious sign of the fuel system sucking air, I crack the fuel return at the head and if there is foamy fuel coming out, I go after cups. I'm sure it'll bite me in the ass at some point but the last 10 or so I've done, cups have been the culprit.

Nothing to see here! Please delete, I fixed the problem.

Thank you guys so much! This is the best place for reliable info, and I try to share a little knowledge here and there when I can. I've been to Chicago a few times for training, once back in 07 or 08 for the mp engines, but didn't ever end up digging into them deep on my own til several years later. By then I had pretty much forgotten most of what I learned lol. And it wasn't like the old days (90's) when I left with stacks of manuals! Mack sure didn't have a problem taking $1500 bucks for impact, but they sure aren't any help getting me the login info! Talked to 3 different people at support and got nowhere. I'll try them again Monday morning. Thanks again!

Thanks Joey, I can see it. I figured the washers were to align the head, but I want to make sure I wasn't missing something. No fear with the gear train, I've done several mp7s, but they are dowel so this thru me off a little. First head I've ever seen on any engine I've rebuilt that didn't have dowels! And that's pretty much every engine under the hood of a truck for the last 25 years lol. We purchased impact to get this info, but for whatever reason Mack hasn't sent the login info yet and I'd like to go ahead and get this head set. There is a rubber seal on these at the gear plate, not replaceable. It still seems intact, do you add silicone around it for good measure?

Since Mack apparently doesn't make actual repair manuals anymore... 😡 Looking for the torque spec for a 2019 mp8. Also I notice the 8 doesn't have dowel pins for the head?? Anything I should need to know about that? Or just slap some silicone on the timing plate, set the head, draw it back and torque it? Thanks for any help!

What happened to MT?

I'd bet my next paycheck on junk in a banjo fitting. I see it on a regular basis.

Rocker bolt number is 21269038

Volvo really screwed my head up with the new world part numbers 😂 I have 421gc23m stuck in my head for those rocker bolts, I could be totally wrong on that, but it's going to drive me nuts till I get to work in the morning and check!

Dang. I usually have that on the tip of my tongue, but I'm seeing fewer of them these days. I've got it at the shop. If you don't get it before morning I'll let you know. Were they tight?

Now yall got me following this one 😂 Almost sounds at this point as if it has to be a pushrod issue, or something crazy with the rocker itself. I'm assuming the rocker bolts aren't broken or backed off? Bent pushrod? I've seen valve seats change valve adjustments pretty quick, but they go the other way, and the lash gets tighter. I'm putting my money on rocker bolts, but then again I would think it would have broken the rocker shaft by now. I see a lot of AI engines with all 12 solid yokes, but Almost always garbage trucks. But they will even run that setup in thier roll offs with manual trans.

I'll tell ya, I'm about over it. Too young to retire, don't know how to do anything else and make anywhere near the money. But damn I miss working on an aset most of the time. Now it's mainly mp' s, cummins, paccar (pure junk) and international. I remember when the etech came out thinking how complicated it was 😂 Those were the days!

The plug is there just to cap off the hole that was created when they drilled for the fuel gallery. Like jojo said, if it were put in correctly the first time, which most are, you'd never have a leak there. I've just gotten in the habit of resealing them whenever I have the front cover off.

😂 I was getting ready to scream DO NOT PUT THAT THING TOGETHER 😂 My knowledge has been ceramic lifters required spring loaded rods. We had one a couple months ago that had steel, dealer sent us ceramic, and swore that's what it called for. Turned out there was something they missed option wise when ordering the parts. The camshaft was a different part number as well, so I'm assuming a steel roller cam is different than ceramic roller cam.