steeler

Mack used to sell a magnet kit to hold the lifters up. That's what I have and they are priceless! Not sure they are still available. And the cam shoe is also well worth the money. No more having an assistant under the engine with a wooden handle to help guide it in. Make sure you reseal that fuel plug while you're there with the front cover off! I've seen many leak.

😂 That's awesome. I mean how dumb is it that we need 2 people to run the valves? Luckily I always have somebody who's more than willing to take a nap under the truck for me.

I just use an old fashioned magnifying glass lol. My eyes suck these days anyway. This one had a miss on number 4,good compression, no electrical faults. So I'm replacing number 4 injector and hoping for the best. I'd be 100% confident on the older mp's, but still learning the common rail ones.

Thank you sir. These are etched as well! Good work Volvo. Not!

I can't seem to find this info anywhere but is the valve, brake and injector adjustment the same for the common rail mp8 as the older ones? Minus adjusting 3 of the injectors obviously....

The only 3 things I've run into over the years are eup's, injector caps, and fuel pump seal.

I've been waiting 2 1/2 weeks for support to call me back about changing the email on my account. I've called twice, they just say they are busy and somebody will eventually get to me. My password expired a few weeks ago with the mandatory change, I never knew anything about a mandatory change I guess because the old email we set up with years ago is no longer in use. So since I can't get into the email they have on file, they must change the email on our account. They are supposed to be calling me to verify my info, but almost 3 weeks now?! Are they that busy?! This is killing me having to use a bosch scanner in the meantime. It's going to bite me soon when I need to do something the bosch won't do!

Go back with what you have, and yes, do all 6 cups. If I remember correctly, conical cups aren't available for the 04 emissions. You'll need the tap/puller to remove the cups, as well as the tooling to install them with the swaging bit. MAKE SURE when you pull them you tap them all the way thru! I got lazy once and ended up leaving part of the cup broken off in the head. I probably shouldn't tell my screw up here lol.

Always! I've been working on mack engines for almost 30 years, used to be the easiest but Volvo has really done some head scratching engineering. Maybe at the top of the list, well Paccar is right up there with them.

Shaving the block is the trick. Doesn't take a lot, but I had to shave it all the way to where the block meets the oil pan gasket. Was able to wiggle it out after that. Thanks for the comments guys!

That's what I've normally seen as well. I didn't get so lucky this time. This one is actually causing the red shutdown light. I plugged in a new thermostat and the code goes away. Had a guy at our local dealer tell me that mack says to remove the filter head, but he's been able to get them out without doing that. If I have to do some block shaving, then shaving I will do!

Its hitting the engine block. Otherwise no clearance issues. Apparently this isn't an issue with the 07 emissions, only after 10 I think.

Yeah this one is hitting a hump in the block where an oil pan bolt threads in. Barely, but enough that the valve will not drop down far enough. I found a service bulletin for the leu, which states to remove turbo, egr cooler, then filter head. Only other option in seeing here is to gently shave that oil pan boss on the block enough to get it out.

Yes, mp7, in the front of the oil filter housing.

2016 GU. What in the world is going on here! Piston oil thermo valve won't come out without stripping down half the engine? Or does someone have a trick?

Not sure if it applies to the 18s, but this was an issue with several leu's that I've worked on. There is a service bulletin about the soot level not resetting, but I can't remember what the fix was.

Usually when the cups start leaking, it will run fine after you get it started. I've seen engines with 3 Badly leaking cups run great, just hard to start. When it gets to the point you start noticing an engine miss under load, that's when you're running out of time with them. Sadly there really isn't any way to get by on the cheap. Pretty much just fix it or run it.

Don't some aftermarket coolant filter come WITHOUT the additives in them? Could be wrong there but was thinking they did? I'm a fan of the extended life coolant and forget it. If you run a filter with additives and extended life coolant, you get the sludge crap that floats at the top.

You are right, I never considered that being why they took the codes of of the dash. I should have though, because I get those calls all the time.

First step is to try to identify where the air leak is coming from. If it's leaking into the case of the transmission, the air will be heard at the breather which is on top front left in the shift bar housing. When you say you replaced the valve, I'm assuming you mean the slave valve on the driver's side of the transmission? If so, and you've replaced the shifter knob, then the only thing left is going to be the o rings on the range piston. Not a big deal if you have some mechanical ability, you can remove the range cylinder and replace the o rings without removing anything else.

Nope. They took the diagnostics out other than to check the cluster. I guess they wanted to help the dealerships make money. The ABS/ATC code is more than likely also why the other light is on.

No way to really tell which one /ones are bad without removing and inspecting them. Usually when I find 1 leaking, there are a couple more that are either leaking or about to. Imo no point in doing 1 (assuming you are lucky enough that the first one you pull is the culprit) because the others will be leaking soon. The injectors /cups once installed, mate to each other, so you can't just replace 1 without the other. They say you can reinstall an old injector into the same cup after removal, but I don't think I've ever encountered a situation where I did that. When they come out, it's because I know they are leaking so it's all going to be replaced.

An 8908 would be an 8,000 lb transmission, where the more common 14908, or 16908 would be 14,000, and, 16,000. Can't say I've ever seen an 8908 in a tri axle though. What did it come out of?

Thanks guys I'll check those out. My fear is that I'm going to kill power to it which will bring it to life again for another 3 days and not be sure I've fixed the problem. These are the jobs that I wished I still worked at a dealership. If it wasn't fixed after tossing a couple thousand bucks at it, oh well! Can't do that at this shop though.

I must be cursed with mystery problems! I'm working on a GU with an MP7 that will occasionally either die and not restart, or just won't start at all.......UNTIL you unplug the engine ECU. Then it will fire right up and might run trouble free for 3 days until it happens again. When the problem occurs, I have no communication with the engine e cu. No coolant temp, oil pressure etc. No matter what I do, it won't start until I remove power from the ecu. I have replaced the ecu, but that didn't fix it. Sometimes when you turn the key on, the ecu will communicate fine, but as soon as you hit the starter, it will clunk and then the engine ecu goes dead. Other times, it's just dead from key on. I've tightened and cleaned every cable on this thing. Frustrating! Any ideas?