steeler

The fuse for the turbo is in the panel by your left foot.I can't remember which one (p13 maybe).

Problem found! Long story short is original complaint was low power and black smoke. After replacing the injector I found 4 intake manifold bolts broken and cracked manifold. That didn't help the smoking. Went ahead and pulled dpf and found it completely melted out. O don't have any idea how this thing regened normally and didn't have a single dpf code in it. But oh well!

Yup, I've changed many harnesses for that problem. Never had one at like this, but I'll definitely be checking that. Another thing I thought was strange was that the suspect cylinder had a different part number injector, but it crossed to the same part, except it showed as a new injector and not a reman. None of them looked like they had been replaced recently though.

Hopefully somebody can lead me in the right direction here. I'm working on a 2013 Mph that is black smoking and throwing codes for cylinder #4 cylinder balance, and cylinder #4 misfire. I replaced #4 injector, that didn't help at all. I've ran compression test which all cylinders checked perfect. When I do the cylinder balance test with tech tool, #4 is way overfueling. Cylinders 1 and 5 are near zero in the balance test, 2 and 6 are about -17, and #4 is climbing pretty fast at +56. #3 is -25. Not sure where to go other than throwing 5 more injectors at it, but that would be a pricey strikeout!

That's more than likely not a head gasket problem, but rather a leaking liner. Time for an inframe.

I wouldn't be overly concerned with a small amount, if it's possibly been there previously and maybe you just didn't notice it? I would take an oil sample, that will tell you whether to worry or not.

Oh yeah, I'm brain dead from the heat lol. What login does it take? Obviously not tech tool login. Something we don't have I'm sure. Impact?

What is CBR?

I'm a die hard Mack guy, but if you aren't talking about looks of off road, or a rail truck, then Eaton is the way to go. I can repair the common issues with Eaton (jumping out of gear/synchro) much cheaper than the common synchro repair on the T300. Not to mention I think they are easier to shift, but I'm a tech not a driver.

Has anybody cleaned out, or know where the dang A/C drain is on an LR? I can't find it anywhere under the evaporator where you would think it would be. There is a channeled little brace directly under the cab below the evap core, but if it drains into it there is no way to unclog it. I hate to pull the core out just to clean to mud from the drain.

Recheck that flywheel. I don't think a 96 flywheel will work on a 99 etech engine. Seen it several times.

I don't think there was an update for the d12. The hold downs for them look different than the ones on the mp. But even on the mp engines, I don't ever recall seeing grooves in the head where they seat. Something just looks off to me.

Hi all. 4,000 miles ago I did injector cups on a d12d, everything had been great till now. Now it's got dying and hard starts again just like last time. Just pulled the injectors out and noticed 4 of the injector washers stayed in the head. On those 4, down in the cup just above the washer, it looks black, like possible leakage. The 2 that the washers came out with the injector are clean and shiny. No traces of soot on the injectors themselves though. My question is, where the injector hold down rests against the head, it appears that maybe there had been movement at one time causing wear on the head. Maybe a couple thousands. I've never noticed this before, and have done a boatload of cups. Could that be my problem? Alli of the hold down bolts were tight by the way.

Thanks for the tips guys but I got it out! Luckily the customer wasn't in a hurry so I waited for my snap on guy to see what he had for stud removers. He had a Blue Point set that incremented in .25 millimeters, and they are very thin walled. I was able to get one in there and remove the tool bit, then removed the broken cup nipple the normal way, luckily without it falling into the cylinder. Huge victory!

Yes it did break the tip of the cup, I figured that would happen. I would feel a little better if I could come up with a way to get the piece of broken tool out of that tip, but it isn't looking good. Im not sure I would have much luck blowing that piece out thru an exhaust port since it's a pretty heavy chunk. Damnit!!

I'm.pretty sure I know the answer to this question but I've got D12 with copper cups, the extractor bit broke off on the cup. Has anybody successfully removed a copper cup with the conical cup puller? That's the only way I can see myself having any chance of getting it out without pulling the head. This sucks! Pulled 3 of them with no problem, other than they were extra tight it seemed. I don't know why but the bit just snapped off!

If I were getting a harness I would go new. I'm not sure you could find a good one from a scrap yard, those seem to get chopped when they remove other components.

Didn't come on at key on? If that's the case change the bulb and get the blink code off the dash.

I had a feeling. Looks like you are pulling heads.

I can get that in the morning for ya.

Your 2511 code is for the output speed sensor on the rear of the transmission.

I was thinking it was fuse 30 or 31, but I'm digging WAY back in the memory bank. I use to pull those fuses while cranking to check compression.

You would normally see a fault code if you have broken or shorted eup wires. I've seen a few have chafed wiring where you describe, but all had faults. Those harnesses are actually pretty solid, much more so than the MP engines for sure! This is smelling more and more of a valve train issue.

That slot faces the passenger side. There is a pin in the block that rides in that slot. If the pin breaks, the roller can turn sideways which will destroy the roller and the camshaft.