steeler

I just pulled the rocker back loose and switched 4 and 5 plungers. Everything looks perfect now. I don't know why that plunger doesn't like being in number 4, but it all adjusted up just fine now.

After an injector cup job, while adjusting valves, the plunger on #5 exhaust valve is sticking out a little more than the others. All others adjusted fine, but#5 has a much thinner shim under it, like someone had this issue last time. If I push down on the rocker arm, three is a little spring loaded feel to it, not anymore than the others had. Any reason this plunger is sticking out further?

Pin number 9 at ecu connector j1(the top one) is your ground signal to turn fan off. Before you start splicing, check that wire for continuity to the fan solenoid.

Yes, if you aren't getting the ground from ecu, I ran a new wire from eco to fan solenoid. My daughter was sick this morning so I stayed home today, but I'll get the info in the morning.

You should have a constant 12v at one wire of the fan solenoid, the other wire is a ground signal from the ecu to disengage the fan. It could be as simple as a blown fuse (don't quote me but #41 I think?) Or could be a break in either the hot wire or ground. I've seen many that were broken wires, rather than chase the mess around and on top of the transmission, I just rewired, bypassing part of the harness. I don't have a schematic with me right now, but can give you pin numbers Monday if you still need them.

Mine does not have the separate pump for after treatment, but I found the problem. The 7th injector was plugged up. Mack needs to fix some issues with the guided diagnostics in tech tool, it never mentioned anything about that as a possibility for the code I had. Oh well all good now. Thanks.

Ok hooked shop air to the shutoff valve, that didn't change anything. So if my test vehicle has after treatment fuel pressure of 90, with engine fuel pressure at 60, what "ups" that pressure? I thought after treatment fuel pressure would be equal to engine fuel pressure?

I was wrong on that test, all it was was checking the fuel pressure to the shutoff valve, which is the same as the engine pressure. That was the last test, so it just told me "no fault found". I hooked up another truck of the same year just to compare pressures. That one had an after treatment fuel pressure of 90 psi when the shutoff valve opens, then dropped to zero with the valve closed. Mine stays at about 45 with the valve closed. I'm going to run regulated shop air to the shutoff valve at 32 psi just to see if anything changes.

Do you still have active dpf codes? Could be derated causing your low power?

Not sure of the exact spec, but should be higher. What hp mp8 is it? Can you hear any squealing noises or anything abnormal?

Hey guys I've got a 2015 lei that is throwing a p20de00 after treatment fuel pressure sensor circuit range/performance fault. I've run through the diagnostics with tech tool with exception of the final test because I don't have the special tool to do it, but everything checks good. The afp runs about the same as engine pressure when the shutoff valve activates, then runs about 45 lbs deactivated. Engine fuel pressure is steady at about 58-60. Any ideas? Forgot to add that I replaced the doser module.

Yup your fan drive is bad then. Check into the Horton 2 speed drives for a replacement unless yours already has it. It will extend the life of your next one

Ok cool thanks fjh.

What size clear hose is it?

How do you guys hook up your clear line to the head while checking cups? Do you buy the banjo fittings and just keep a rig for testing?

Depends what type of fan drive you have. I would say you probably have a Horton that locks the fan when there is no air to it. If I have one that isn't kicking in properly for me the easiest way to test the fan itself is to remove the air line that goes to the fan drive. That will lock it in and you shouldn't be able to spin the fan. If it's a fan drive that locks on with air pressure to it, then I take the air line off and shoot air to the fan manually and see if it locks. I would suspect the fan drive is probably the culprit.

Can anyone tell me where this module is located on a 2016 gu713? Sorry guys Never mind I found it hiding under the radio.

I'll tell you why they won't do anything other than a reman. For one, they don't like the idea of someone "bringing in their own steak" to have them cook it for you. They get no profit in parts that way, just labor. 2nd, and I'm speaking from experience here is that there is almost always (for my shop anyway) issues with this or that being different/not working with your application. It can become a huge pain in the rear, especially after they give you a quote and end up 20 hrs over what they told you it would cost. Our shop went through it not long ago with an mp7. Tried to install engine only to find out there are a zillion different flywheel housings for the mp. And the one on the original engine was no good. We won't do it anymore, only Mack remans. Every time we install a customer supplied used engine we lose our butts.

Hmm. Strange. I was looking up info on a service bulletin and was one click away from ordering impact. Maybe they changed something Idk. Our shop is a "service partner" for Mack. Our dealer isn't helpful with it. We mentioned getting impact thru them but he keeps saying we don't really need it. Wrong. We need it badly. You would think us spending 30k a month in parts with them that they would be a little more helpful.

A few months ago I was on Macks website and saw a part number for Impact. I can't seem to find out now. My shop would like to get it for service and parts info. Anybody know the part number?

Malfunction light on? Does it fire right back up?

Our shop has a tool to cap off one side of the cooler and put pressure on the other, but you can idle the engine up to around 1500 and spray around it with soapy water and detect leaks. Do that at hose connections, intake manifold gaskets, everywhere. And don't forget the air compressor intake hoses and pipe, they are boosted as well.

Problem solved, I think. Ended up unplugging the boost sensor and it went ahead and did it's thing. Plugged it back in and its working perfect now. The boost reading was a little wacky, but now it's fine. Must've had a bad connection there. Thanks Turckster.

Hey guys I'm getting a drv solenoid fault when I try a service regen. It will throw the code after only about 5 seconds after it starts the regen. It has a new drv solenoid and air line. I've removed the valve by the turbo and it functions perfect with the test on vcads. The fault is 128 ppid330 fmi7. Can anyone give me a suggestion?

To be honest, I hope they are right. Lol. If the engine has to come out, then I won't have to mess with it. I've already got several big jobs on my plate and I can't think of a job I hate more than those idler gears!