85snowdog

I didn't have to go to far to round up pics Rob. I just had to walk out back . lol Normally I would take tube tires off and replace with tubeless. But the old international gets about 2 mile /gal . And our gas is about $ 5.25 gal now. So the ol binder won't be going far . So I left the 10.00 - 20s on . To bad someone wouldn't build an electric truck . lol I didn't get a chance to thank keith s for sharing his build . Thanks so much Keith , Its very interesting thread.

I'm not sure if this helps. Red hub is 11R22.5 with tubeless rims . Orange hubs are tube type 10.00 - 20 's My 2 cents. Everyone is giving good advice . Tubeless is the way to go. They are easier to buy and , a way easier to get someone to work on them.

Look at the number on the puff limiter relay valve. What you describe is exactly how my R models perform with a "3x" or a "CX" relay valve on. A EM6 should have a "5x" you could even put a "6x" on it. The part #'s for them are easy to decipher. 691GC218CP6X . The higher the number and X , the lower the rpm to get fuel, but the more smoke . Remember these are mack part #'s , not volvo. I have done a lot of experimenting with different relay valves, and found there is a big difference between them. There is lots of good info on relay valves and setting the rack limiting cylinders up on here. The first pic is a "CP5X" the second pic is a "CP6X" the third was the part # for a "3X"

I kinda wish it was air brakes. I find them so much easier to work on. The truck has not been on the road since 1989. So most of the hydraulic brake components were rusted or leaking . So pretty well everything had to be rebuilt or replaced.

I have been working on my loadstar Sundance and wanted to share some of my progress . After a tune up , the MV404 runs like a sewing machine . I fixed the hood, painted the frame , polished the original paint of the cab . I put a new rad in it , cleaned the interior. I still have to clean up/ fix the running boards and quarter fenders. they are pretty rusty. I am going to clean up and paint the original flat bed and reinstall .

Thanks so much for sharing this. I'm so sorry that it took more than 7 months to see this. Its a good looking truck that is very similar to mine. Even the low miles.

I'm glad I could give you something to think about Rob. Usually I'm the one looking for help with something. Its not very often I can contribute back. I'm thankful for this site and the good folks that stop by here.

Here is a short video Rob. I think you are 100 % right about the grease zerks. I always thought they should be there . I have seen them on newer trailers. But like you said , they are usually broke or not used . I also think the teflon would be good for the slide. If everything was lubricated ,or able to slide easy , and a pressure regulator put in,. I'm sure it would be easy to find the sweet spot for the amount of air to make it work smoother. (I have a new pressure regulator for this on my bench. Been there for 2 years) lol, my problem is I have too many projects , and too little time . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rg7cQP0KaQ

Its no problem getting some video for you Rob. I will get it for you later today. You mentioned the small gap between the hinge pins and the rotating sleeves. When I got the trailer the ramps didn't work very well. The hinge pins were sloppy and things would just bind up . I find the less play there is , the more energy goes to raising the ramps . I've never had any trouble since i tightened things up. To your point of greasing the slide. I actually don't grease it . You will notice no deck boards above it. That way I can wash it regularly. The grease just attracts a lot of dust and crap. For the video I put a bit of lubricant on it. So you can see how easily it can move. With no lubricant you need to give it a little help. (equivalent to lifting 20 or 30 pounds). The reason I like to" help"it , you will see that when the ramps go up . They go fast. If someone was close to them, they could easily get hurt . It actually works really good because the ramps come off the ground. I clean all the dirt off the ramps , then give them a bit of help , then they stand up nicely. My R688st has a 350 4V with an 8LL trans and 4:42 rears . I'm the second owner. Its the original paint on it.

Here some pics for you Rob. It's just a rectangle made from square tubing , sitting in a channel. Has 2 push rods (I will call them ) connected to the bottom of the ramps. I have the air spring # in the shop if you like . Its just a firestone air bag. And if you would like some measurements, I can get them for you. I can't seem to download a video directly. If your really interested I can download something to youtube for you to see. And I have to include a pic of my truck …………………Just because I like it so much.

Thanks for the input everyone. I am going to see the truck in the next week or so. I will report back with what I see in person.

Thanks very much for the link bigmackattack , I had to wipe the drool off the keyboard after looking at the FWD and the Freightliner tankers.

I'm not sure if I got this wrong. A friend sent me this pic of a truck not to far from me ( little over an hour north of Toronto, Ontario). I think ? it says Greenwood , Delaware on the door. I thought we had members from that part of the world. I wanted to share the pic ,in case someone knows the truck and would like to know where it ever went. It has a detroit motor and a standard transmission. I didn't think a standard would be very common . I was told it hasn't moved in years and doesn't run . A fire truck lover is going to try to resurrect it . You can also correct me if I'm wrong about the make . I thought it was a Seagrave, but I could have easily got that wrong too.

Thanks for posting this Jim. As always , I learn something new all the time on here. A little off topic but…….I found the trim levels very interesting. I always thought it had to do with floor covering, and door panels and such. I had no idea it was colour. I have a trim level 3 (blue) in my RD. A trim level 2 (silver) in my R .

I can certainly take some detailed photos for you. (when snow is gone and warms up a little) It is a simple system. Your are right , gravity puts ramps down. As you can imagine , they can come down fast . I release air slowly so they don't come down to fast.

Have you considered air ramps for your project Rob ? I have air ramps that work good . If your interested, I can give you measurements and pics. I have noticed that the new trailers have 2 air bags now , not the single one like mine.

Upon further investigation , there doesn't seem to be any type of fuse off of the starter. So it seems that the protection is from fusible link wiring . Thanks guys

There was a thread last fall that might help. 41chevy posted a very good breakdown on model and engine codes. https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/51420-r-model-vin-decoder/?tab=comments#comment-382894

Thanks Dirtymilkman , I will look at that later today.

Thanks Rob.

I would say it is around 14 gauge . Everything works fine. Do you think I should leave things alone? Make sure I'm up to date on my fire insurance. lol Or would a fusible link be a good idea on the power line into the headlight switch ?

Thanks for the reply Rob. I had the headlight switch out, it doesn't have the fuse . It appears that the wiring has never been molested with . So maybe it is fuseible link wiring , like you say .

I've been working on my '76 Loadstar, and curiosity has got the best of me. The fuse panel does not have a spot for headlights. Thinking there has to be some kind of protection against a short , I took out all the fuses. With all the fuses out the headlights still work. I looked all over for relays . Under dash and on firewall. Can't find anything. Am I missing something obvious ? I thought I would try the minds here because I know there is lots of binder knowledge here as well. Thanks in advance

Driving on left side of road to improve safety March 28/2018 Ottawa Today the transport minister was happy to announce that commencing June 01/2019, Ontario drivers will have to drive on the left side of the road. The ministry has allocated 10.2 billion in research and development of the idea. It was found that driving on the left will improve safety and keep traffic moving much more efficiently. Thus, creating less gridlock , which in turn is good for our environment. " It's a win win for us all" , the transport minister tweeted. The new law would require vehicles have there steering wheels moved to the right side of the vehicle. A technical analyst for the Ontario government said "it will be a simple conversion , that shouldn't cost more the $ 350.00" . The Ontario government said it was willing to pay for half of the conversion. The premier of Ontario was also excited to hear about the changes . She noted that with the changes to road signage , and the modifications to automobiles it would be a huge boost for our economy. She posted on Facebook " Ontario is changing lanes " It was advised by a technical analyst to simplify the transition to driving on the left. That it be implemented slowly. It was suggested that only trucks drive on the left for the first month. Then all traffic use the left starting July 01. The final drafts of the legislation will be on the Ontario website , available April fools. A little side note. An article similar to this was in our local paper a long time ago. As I was reading it , I was getting more and more angry. It seemed believable to me considering all the silly things the government here thinks up. Wishing you all a Happy Easter .

Welcome aboard ! Sounds like you have a pretty nice dog pound there. We love pics . You came to the right place for Mack info. Lots of knowledgeable people here.