85snowdog

Sorry for getting this thread off track We might have to start a new thread on decoding a VIN Vlad, is it possible that your truck is a 1989 model year ?? Model Year Character Codes As shown above, the 10th character of the VIN indicates its model year. A: 1980 or 2010 B: 1981 or 2011 C: 1982 or 2012 D: 1983 or 2013 E: 1984 or 2014 F: 1985 or 2015 G: 1986 or 2016 H: 1987 or 2017 J: 1988 K: 1989 L: 1990 M: 1991 N: 1992 P: 1993 R: 1994 S: 1995 T: 1996 V: 1997 W: 1998 X: 1999 Y: 2000 1: 2001 2: 2002 3: 2003 4: 2004 5: 2005 6: 2006 7: 2007 8: 2008 9: 2009 Country of Origin Character Codes The 1st character in a car's vehicle identification number indicates the country in which it was manufactured. Some of the country codes include: 1, 4, 5: United States 2: Canada 3A-37: Mexico J: Japan VF-VR: France 9: Brazil WA-W0: West Germany S: Great Britian

I don't know much about the numbering system for VIN's . The only thing I can add is that I have 3 Oakville built trucks that start with 2M2 , and I know they were not gliders because I've known 2 of them since new , and have there original build sheets. I do know that the 10th digit ( a letter , should be a "J" in Vladislav's 1988 ) represents the year.

Love an opportunity to so show off my plow. Ready for this winter.

Its a factory option. A Grated clutch pedal . You can see it listed as # 32 on my build sheet .

Something else I wanted to add, that I learnt today. I thought it was interesting. All you firefighters will know. The button for ringing the bell ,if your riding on the back. I realize they don't do that anymore .

I came across this truck today in my travels . I don't know the owner or much about the truck . I just found it very interesting and though some on here would appreciate some pics. It had a gas engine originally . At some point it had a 6-71 put in it. Things I found interesting is , wipers on both sides of the windshield and the "pressure computer" Like I said, I don't know much about it . But if anyone knows anything interesting , I would love to hear.

I'm not sure if this is the same trans. This is a TRDXL 10780. Hopefully Mr. Hancock can shed some light. I never got chance to say " NICE TRUCK " !!!!! That dog found it's way to a good home.

Theres a lot of info on here about puff limiters. The thread that helped me the most is this…... http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/44803-300-puff-limiter/#comment-332974 Swishy posted some shop manual pics in the very last post. They are very helpful. Thanks Swishy !! Another point that may be helpful , is in the pic that Jim posted you can see on the bottom there is a CP5X . You will find a they are all stamped with a number that ends with X. could be a 3X all the way to 9X (i think) The lower the # the less smoke you get. I have a 3X on my 350 and a 5X on my 237 . The relay valve is just part of it though. The rack limiting cylinder (where the line is going to from the relay) has to be set and working properly. The info Swishy posted shows how to test .

I'm sure, going by everything else you've done , it will be whipped into shape in no time. Hopefully everything goes smooth with your new endeavour.

Congratulations on your new truck . I love this story because you were actually able to buy the truck . Stories like this usually end with the " the owner won't sell it , because they want to save it "or they think its worth $ 30,000……. usually 5 years later it is sitting in the same spot , just a lot rustier . Thanks for including us in your endeavour . Hopefully you will include us in the work you do to it . Nice truck

Nice job ! I can see you only have one way to do things………………….The RIGHT way !

Tach cable goes to the front , right side.

I just got one for my R688st part # 54MT313BP94 . I believe ? but not sure, the last numbers of the part # is the length of the cable. Cables range from 80 to 218 inches , I think ? You can get them from Mack . I don't really have a user friendly Mack dealer, so mine came from PAI , it was only around 25 bucks .

Yes it should have 3 positions . Just like ekennedy21 said, the vent should open on heat and a/c but should be closed for max a/c

It doesn't get any better than that ! Nice job. Thanks for sharing .

Looks great ! I like the exhaust tips. And very impressed with paint.

I have used chassis saver. It goes on very nice ,and looks good when its new. Its very durable and doesn't need primer. But like POR 15 ( like Willie dog just posted about ) it also goes flat and chalky. I'm doing the frame on a different truck this spring and will just use rustoleum .

Very good job. I love the colour.

Looks like a great save ! Thanks for sharing .

Here some pics Larry. They reinforce what Robert said. The water line for heater is off the left side of the water pump. The line for the compressor is off the right side at the bottom. You have to excuse the oil on everything. Truck has plowed for 31 years now, and its the oil that stops it from being a big pile of rust.

You could check the quick release valves. That is normally where the air is exhausted from.

I can take some pics for you later today Larry. I don't remember a line coming off the water pump. But not sure.

I love that ! Thanks for sharing.

Very good find ! Looks like it was a very sharp truck in its day,hopefully you can bring it back to its former glory. I really like the fenders to.

Here's one that still works in Ontario. I can't remember what engine it had? I thought it was a gas 6 cyl. But think that can't be right. I need to take notes when I talk to people. The second pic isn't very good because I took a pic of a pic. But if you really squint your eyes, you can see it moving a building.