Mackpro

The truck a CV713 or a CXN/CHN? Looks to be CV700 series by the steering gear box. If it in fact a 2006 CV 7XX series truck then it should have a ASET AI engine. By the looks of it , it has a ETECH /CCRS engine installed which is the wrong engine for this truck to begin with. The engine you bought is a ASET AC engine which in not correct for a 2006 CV 713. The ASET AC engine is for 2003.5 to 2007 CH/CX and CXN/CHN trucks. The ASET AI engine is for 2003.5 -2007 CV, MR and LE trucks. The AC engine has a VGT turbo , external EGR cooler and engine ECM has 3 plugs. The AI engine is more like the ETECH engine with a 2plug engine ECM.

The new Mack Max Aero is debuting soon. I’m sure it will be very similar to the new Volvo VNR Max Aero with the sloped back windshield. The Volvo actually look well thought out under the hood after checking it out in person. I did notice it had the small in-line Cummins style SCR/DPF exhaust system. I heard last week that the Mexico plant will only produce Export models that are not for sale in the US

Is it a MR or a MRU ? Find the air line going to the fan clutch and put air directly to the clutch and see if it unlocks . There should be an air solinoid that controls the air to the fan. If it’s a MR fuse 41 supply’s 12 volts to this solinoid. This fuse in in the fuse box that’s outside of the cab. Also the green high pressure switch for the AC could be bad or unplugged causing the ECM to turn on the fan .

Truck is still listed as a 400 AI in the corporate mainframe. Still has all original software in it so bumping the VECU software to Step 12B would help with throttle response. Good news is it has 4.64 rear gears so you’re good regardless of tire size. To bump to 460HP the factory way you would need a turbo and injectors and the download. You really need to put a boost pressure gauge in it and see what your boost pressure is under a load , Factory spec is 30-38 psi but even 28 psi would ok .

Fuel pressure should be around 55 psi at idle and 65 psi at 1100 rpm. Test drive with Jpro hooked up and watch fuel pressure. If the pressure stays above 40 psi then it’s not a fuel pressure issue. If it’s 0 to 10 psi then it is a pressure issue. I would use Tech tool and do a VGT turbo test , it might just be out of calibration. It very well could be a bad delete too. If a 2010 program was put in a 2009 then the boost pressure would not read. 2008 and 2009 engine use a separate sensor for boost temp and boost pressure. On the 2010 and up the use a combo sensor on the back of the intake manifold. On the 2008 -2009 the boost temp sensor is on back of the manifold and the boost pressure sensor is towards the front of the intake manifold. Even though they look about the same Mack changed up the engines/software about every 2-3 years . DPF engines 2008-2009. DPF/DEF engines were 2010-2012. OBD DPF/DEF engine 2013-2016 then 2017 starts the common rail engines.

I can pull the software versions tomorrow and see what the levels are and If it’s up to date. Also what size tires are you running? These AI engines have a narrow horsepower/torque curve so high rear axle ratio and tall 24.5 tires can throw it out of the curve .

There is a new updated pipe number 21599120, also on that pipe it takes 2 o-rings on each end of the pipe.

Being a tooth off on the cam gear will set the cam position sensor code. I’ve done more than once , especially on the MP7 where they have timing marks on the front and rear of camshaft. The marks on the front of the cam are not inline with the rear of camshaft. So always remember on the MP7 to use the rear camshaft marks for timing. Luckily on your MP8 it only has timing marks on the front of camk

I found my notes on this exact problem, “No power till you turn key to start position “. Fuse/breaker number 7 in top dash fuse box is bad or blown. The one I had used a fuse and showed 12 volts on both sides( key off) but when turn key to on position one side of the fuse dropped to 2 volts

There is a ground stud welded to the frame rail behind the battery box. Check the wire from the ground stud to the negative on the battery. It’s a smaller fuseable link wire that can melt inside and cause this issue. I’ve also had the stud break loose from the frame and had the eyelet ends come looked from the cables

There was a design change around your year model. The original MP8 side cover had a grove machined into it and a rubber sealing strip that went into the grove to form a seal/gasket. They updated the side cover to a smooth surface with a metal gasket with rubber seal made on the gasket. I remember replacing the whole side cover to get the new style cover/gasket because the old string rubber seal was discontinued.

On some trucks we saw the starter solinoid shorting internally and making the engine die in a hard pull when the engine would lean over.

Here is a bulletin on this. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10152929-9999.pdf

“No Info” message on the cluster on thoses years is usually the J1708 or J1939 data link wires shorting in the engine harness. Had 2 in one week doing this and it was shorting wires in the engine harness behind the oil filters . New engine harness solved both theses trucks. Also check the engine ECM connectors for rotted pins due to antifreeze in the engine harness.

The oil leaks are probably the bottom exhaust manifold studs. They are drilled into the oil return/push tube area and you have to put RVT silicone on the studs if oil is seeping around then . This is only on the bottom studs. Using to long of bolts or the incorrect studs can actually hit the push tubes and cause issues