Mackpro

You can get the shift control housing off without Tech Tool but it’s tricky. You have to shoot air with a rubber tipped blow gun in a certain sequence into the air passages in the control housing . I had better luck that way than using TechTool. Here’s how. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/SB-10055631-2447.pdf

It didn’t go into much detail abs was not released to the public. Ill see if I can find a copy

As FJH said range shift/synchro issues. There is a bulletin on removing the PTO /PTO cover and checking the range cone for excessive play. They make a repair kit but usually we get the Reman rear range housing that comes with everything together. I did a couple many years ago it wasn’t to bad with the correct tools. I think it can be done in the truck ( CH/CX style truck with floorboard access) . In a Volvo the trans has to be pulled because the top cover has to come off.

This is info from Tech Tool when looking at troubleshooting engine oil temps. So 208 degree coolant temp can equal 257 oil temp. Which seems a little high to me but Mack/Volvo says ok .

I’ve been wondering this myself. I finally looked the specs up and with coolant temp between 167-203 degrees the oil temp should be between 194-243 degrees. However it has a note that higher coolant temperatures will of course translate to higher oil temps. The max oil temp fully loaded is 262 degrees. I assume above 262 degrees you will get fault codes/warnings .

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As far as complete engines 2008 and 2009 . Theses are referred as 2007 emission year model engines. 2010 and up had different camshaft, injectors, turbo and Programing. Even though the engines looked the same every emission year change could have different parts . There were more emission year changes after 2007 than I can remember. In the Remack manual are 4 different 08-09 MP’8s. With or without engine brake and some type of difference in the flywheel housing

Your definitely on the low side of specs on boost pressure.

Looks like the ETECH 355/380 could have 2 different turbos on them. Depends on the turbo on how much boost you should see

I looked a a different book and it’s saying 28 psi boost max. Which is more than I said above.

You should be at around 1500 rpm at 65 mph fir your engine

The new part number is 20916283. There are 38 in the Mack parts warehouse. They are over $2000 though but new.

Most of the time it’s a ABS wheel speed sensor issue. You will get the lighting bolt with both ABS and ATC lights on if this is the cause . If only the lighting bolt comes on and absolutely no ABS/ATC light comes on when this happens. Then pull the center floor mat and floor board out ( 10 mm socket) , real easy to do , push the shifter boot through floor board. Carefully follow the trans harness towards the driver side and you will see a 10 or 12 pin connector ( 2 rows of 5/6) . Look for rubbed wires near this connector. Do be afraid of cutting zip ties and pulling the wires up and looking underneath them . I had 2 of our 2014-15 CXU’s have shorted wires in this area. It was due to who ever pulled the trans to change the clutch, didn’t zip tie up the connector and both rubbed on the braided air compressor line.

I was trying to add video, hope it works. IMG_5444.MOV

I just got done tonight replacing a aftermarket injector cup in a Volvo D13/MP8. Truck would barely run and missing like crazy. Had coolant in the fuel and fuel in the coolant. Pulled the injectors and pressurized the cooling system. #6 cup was bubbling around top o-ring. Pulled the cup and the o-ring was deformed and flattened. This allowed coolant and fuel to mix. Cup looked weird and had P3614 stamped on it. I’ve put hundreds of cups in and never saw one like this .

That year model ETECH has excessive fuel from the injectors return back to the tank through passage ways inside the cylinder heads. A leaking top O-ring on the injectors can allow fuel into the oil. Seems likely due to it didn’t start till after the heads replaced. Put some fuel dye in the fuel filters and run the engine for one minute then remove valve covers and use a black light to look for fuel around injector hold downs.

There should be a 1/8 pipe plug on the top middle of the intake manifold. That’s where I always ran my 1/4 air line to fir the gauge . Factory specs for a 1999-2001 355/380 boost is 19-24 psi under a load .

Your engine is the early ETECH 400 with 1460 ft pounds of torque. I’m not sure about the performance just by updating the injectors to the bigger ones. Holler at the guys at Rochester Diesel, good guys to talk to . They know what combinations work. I just know that the 355/380 programs do crazy stuff with the small turbos and injectors to get the bigger torque. Remember, injectors are wear items that no one want to replace anymore. If yours are original, getting them rebuilt can restore performance that has slowly dropped over time .

Yes . The 99-2001 Etech ( not 2002 CCRS) 355/380 has 1560 foot pounds of torque like the 427 of the same year. The 427 and 460 and 460XT use the same turbo and 850cc injectors and have the offset cam keyway, the only difference between the 427 and 460 and 460XT is the software. The 350,400 and 355/380 all use the same smaller 700cc injectors and smaller turbo and all have the straight cam key way. So in theory putting the bigger injectors and turbo there should be a big increase in power. My notes I found when I got to work were for the 2004-2007 ASET AC 355/380 . 50 pounds of boost and over 500 HP on the Dyno by upgrading to the bigger injectors and turbo . The CCRS and ASET engines are different in HP levels/ parts combos. The cam keyway on the ETECH 1999-2001 would concern me. I did a 400 to 460 update on a RD without doing the cam key way. It was fine till summertime then it ran hot . The keyway retards the timing on the 427/460. The straight keyway is for most 300 to 400 including 355/380. Flip the keyway the other way and it advances it for the 275 and some 300 engines. The CCRS and ASET engines all use the straight keyway regardless of HP

What the model and last 6 of the VIn? I can look the actual specs up of your truck/engine. The 355/380 has the same torque as a 427. On some year models of the 355/380 just adding the 427/460 injectors ( possibly turbo as well) will boost the Hp over 500. The 355/380 usually have smaller injectors but the software/data file manipulates the EUP’s for a larger fuel charge to get the 427 like torque readings. Bumping up to the larger 427/460 injectors really improve things. I have to find my notes on this when I get to work.

First thing the old guys taught me in the shop when I started . Haven’t heard anyone else say that in a long time .

I believe the fuse is in the fuse box down by where the clutch pedal is . I didn’t write that down in my notes

Fuse 43 is the fuse .