Mackpro

We have a few around here and the only difference that I have seen is the interior. Better sterio, built in cell phone, different guages, seat covers, door panels, steering wheel and console.

This is one of the best , most true post I have seen in awhile. I have worked at a Mack Dealer for 22years now. The EPA is the one killing us not Volvo. However I dont like Volvo (or Volvo trucks)owning Mack but thats out of our control. As far as the MP engines go, I would go out and order a new one today if I needed a truck. The bugs have finally been worked out (new injector cup washers, new roller rockers, 7th injector purge kit and other updates) We have sold several GU's that stay local and we do nothing but regular oil changes on them. I hate to say this and will probably get laughed at and booed but if Mack was going to get bought by someone and forced to use their engine, I wish it was Hino (Toyota, I think) Their DPF engines are awesome and I wish we were a dealer. I have said many times that if Hino built a class 8 large truck, it would put them all out of business.

My 1984 Mack tune up book does list the 4VH but the 1983 tune up book does not. My 1989 book does still list the E6 2 valve motor but I'm missing my 1990 book and the 1991 book makes no metion of the E6 2V. I have most of the Mack tune up books from 1972 and up and there handy.

As far as oil supply line to the econovace, do you have a small steel line from the engine block (below the fuel pump) to the econovance or do you have a larger braided hose(stratoflex) that comes from around the front of the engine around the alternator area to the econovance?

You measure from the bottom of the frame flange to the bottom of the Z-spring (Z-spring its self, not the plate it sits on),This should be done on the front drive axle(either side OK) it should be 4 and 1/4 inches. Make sure you have at least 100psi air and brakes released. I would say put the washer/shims back in the orignal location

I just ordered another laptop through Mack. "Toughbook" with all software already loaded, it was $4100.00 and that was with out the interface to hook to the truck. We have had our other "Toughbook" for almost 4 years and it has been great, it was worth the money. What really bad is there are no troubleshooting books for 2008 and up engines, it all on the software on the computer.

A year or so ago I posted a thread with pics of a 2000 CX613 with a regular ETECH engine with a home made propane injection system on it. It was in the shop for a service, didnt get to talk to the owner or driver about preformance or MPG.

Its not that the injector line is leaking , its the o-rings on the injector it self that are leaking. The injectors have o-rings on them to keep the "return fuel" (fuel the injector dosent use) in a certain area so it can pass through drilled passages in the head and get returned back to the fuel tank. When the o-rings get damaged or go bad the return fuel rises up and into the area where the injector line comes through the side of the head and meets the injector and the fuel has no where to go but pass the threads on the injector line and down the side of the engine. We see this all the time. In the 2002 and up CCRS and ASET engines there is no fuel return in the heads/injectors.

All the Mack tune-up spec books I have looked at "1996-2004 "says 33 psi is about the max boost pressure you should see for a 427 HP engine. I think the ASET "AC' engine might be higher but the ASET "AI dump truck" version should still be around 33 max. I would say anything above 30 psi is good. However I have seen and drove trucks that put out more than what the specs say. I have seen alot of blown intake manifold gaskets on 99-03 engines( mostly around #1 cylinder) and air compressor intake piping problems that leak boost pressure.

Heres the wirig to the fan clutch

The fan clutch you have is the Behr electric viscous fan clutch, made in germany. Unlike the air fan clutches, it never really totaly "freewheels", its always turning. With the engine off and key off, grab the fan blade and try to turn it, if its so "locked up" that it slips the belts or you cant turn it, it's bad and you need a new fan clutch. When you start it up, the fan should be engaged and roaring for around 10 minutes at 1100-1500 rpm then slowly the roaring will get softer and softer and the fan will disengage, this is normal. I have seen the AC high side pressure switch and wiring be bad and cause the fan to stay engaged. I dont belive there is a "fan relay'" all the wires come from the engine ECU.

For a 1999-2000 Etech 460 and 460XT(490HP) the Mack tune-up book says 27-35psi. The 460XT is the exact same engine/turbo/injectors just different download and a 100 Ftlbs more torque.

I dont remember the problem on the older E-7's, I have only seen it happen on the ETECH style engines, including the ASET's.

The bottom stud hole on the exhaust manifold is drilled all the way into the push tube hole. Oil can leak past the threads, so like fjh said, remove the stud and put some good silicone on it but put it back in at the same depth because we have seen them go in to deep and hit the push tube. I have also seen people put to much silicone on the stud and it gets pushed into the push tube cavity and blocks off oil to the roller lifter or gets between the push tube and lifter and causes a miss in engine. We put the silicone on the stud starting about an 1/4" from the end of the stud.

I found 5140MX and 5140M3X but no 5140M2X . The two I did find were for 325-350 HP VMAC engines. Boost pressures for these engines were any where from min 15psi to max 28psi.

You can take it to a Mack dealer and thay can call Mack and have a "throttle responce file " turned on and reflash and download both ECM's. We do it all the time, helps out with the "deadspots" between shift. We only charge about an hour and a half labor and no parts for this.

The only time both lights come on is for low coolant, (except for 2008 and up DPF equipped Macks). Could be a coolant sensor wire shorted in the harness on the engine.

The 395C version of the MP7 puts out 1560 lb-ft of torque while the 405E and 405M only put out 1460 and 1480 lb-ft of torque. Look at the sticker on your valve cover and see what you have now.

Look for a triangle shaped grey plug with only 3 post/wires in it. It will be coming out of the firewall on the driver side and going down. It will have a yellow and green wire in it. On some trucks it also runs on top of the tranny for hooking up a auto tranny ECM. I have seen this plug on top of the trans corrode and loose connection and truck just idles at 900rpm with no throttle responce and 6-4 code active. Also unplug engine and vechicle ECM and check for corrosion on pins.

I would love to see a picture of this turbo!The mounting flange is a tad diffrent on vgt style turbo! Doubt it would even fit. I'd like to see that as well. I forgot the VGT turbo had a very different bolt pattern.

With no VGT position sensor (silver round thing on turbo) to hook-up, the engine ECU has no way to see the turbo vain position so it derates the engine, 4-5 code active . Dont know any way around this except to put the correct turbo on.

press and hold #3 and #6 presets at same time for 3 seconds. radio will beep once then use the + and - to set the time. Once time is set them press the power button and the radio will beep and your are done.

As fjh said, Mack has a service bulliten SB214024 on how to solve this problem. It moves your existing breather canister ontop of the front valve cover. I can fax you a copy if you want.

The torque on thoses damper bolts are only 45 lbs. Most techs just stick an impact gun on them and over torque them and then they fail. We have done it here more than once. Now everyone here knows the correct torque.

A Big +1 on that. A new damper will help to keep 3-4 and 3-2 timing fault codes from happening. The newer dampers are also bigger in diameter and will fit all ETECHS style engines 1999 and up.