Mackpro

Heres the wirig to the fan clutch

The fan clutch you have is the Behr electric viscous fan clutch, made in germany. Unlike the air fan clutches, it never really totaly "freewheels", its always turning. With the engine off and key off, grab the fan blade and try to turn it, if its so "locked up" that it slips the belts or you cant turn it, it's bad and you need a new fan clutch. When you start it up, the fan should be engaged and roaring for around 10 minutes at 1100-1500 rpm then slowly the roaring will get softer and softer and the fan will disengage, this is normal. I have seen the AC high side pressure switch and wiring be bad and cause the fan to stay engaged. I dont belive there is a "fan relay'" all the wires come from the engine ECU.

For a 1999-2000 Etech 460 and 460XT(490HP) the Mack tune-up book says 27-35psi. The 460XT is the exact same engine/turbo/injectors just different download and a 100 Ftlbs more torque.

I dont remember the problem on the older E-7's, I have only seen it happen on the ETECH style engines, including the ASET's.

The bottom stud hole on the exhaust manifold is drilled all the way into the push tube hole. Oil can leak past the threads, so like fjh said, remove the stud and put some good silicone on it but put it back in at the same depth because we have seen them go in to deep and hit the push tube. I have also seen people put to much silicone on the stud and it gets pushed into the push tube cavity and blocks off oil to the roller lifter or gets between the push tube and lifter and causes a miss in engine. We put the silicone on the stud starting about an 1/4" from the end of the stud.

I found 5140MX and 5140M3X but no 5140M2X . The two I did find were for 325-350 HP VMAC engines. Boost pressures for these engines were any where from min 15psi to max 28psi.

You can take it to a Mack dealer and thay can call Mack and have a "throttle responce file " turned on and reflash and download both ECM's. We do it all the time, helps out with the "deadspots" between shift. We only charge about an hour and a half labor and no parts for this.

The only time both lights come on is for low coolant, (except for 2008 and up DPF equipped Macks). Could be a coolant sensor wire shorted in the harness on the engine.

The 395C version of the MP7 puts out 1560 lb-ft of torque while the 405E and 405M only put out 1460 and 1480 lb-ft of torque. Look at the sticker on your valve cover and see what you have now.

Look for a triangle shaped grey plug with only 3 post/wires in it. It will be coming out of the firewall on the driver side and going down. It will have a yellow and green wire in it. On some trucks it also runs on top of the tranny for hooking up a auto tranny ECM. I have seen this plug on top of the trans corrode and loose connection and truck just idles at 900rpm with no throttle responce and 6-4 code active. Also unplug engine and vechicle ECM and check for corrosion on pins.

I would love to see a picture of this turbo!The mounting flange is a tad diffrent on vgt style turbo! Doubt it would even fit. I'd like to see that as well. I forgot the VGT turbo had a very different bolt pattern.

With no VGT position sensor (silver round thing on turbo) to hook-up, the engine ECU has no way to see the turbo vain position so it derates the engine, 4-5 code active . Dont know any way around this except to put the correct turbo on.

press and hold #3 and #6 presets at same time for 3 seconds. radio will beep once then use the + and - to set the time. Once time is set them press the power button and the radio will beep and your are done.

As fjh said, Mack has a service bulliten SB214024 on how to solve this problem. It moves your existing breather canister ontop of the front valve cover. I can fax you a copy if you want.

The torque on thoses damper bolts are only 45 lbs. Most techs just stick an impact gun on them and over torque them and then they fail. We have done it here more than once. Now everyone here knows the correct torque.

A Big +1 on that. A new damper will help to keep 3-4 and 3-2 timing fault codes from happening. The newer dampers are also bigger in diameter and will fit all ETECHS style engines 1999 and up.

We have all kinds of problems with the turn signal switch and flashers on the "U" style trucks. Mostly the flasher, make sure you are using a orignal replacement flasher. I had a guy put an cheap one in a new CHU and it melted the fuse panel, BIG $$$$ mistake. I have also replaced the turn signal switch on several trucks. Make sure you get the correct replacement part# as as trucks with the "Guard Dog "cluster display take a different part # than the standard display. Good Luck

If these were the new "SCR" engines it would be possible due to very little "EGR" being used and the HP could be bumped up. 4 years ago alot of the engineers said the "SCR" engines would probably not even have the EGR system on them.

I think its the Mack chassis due to the CV being around before the Volvo takeover. The CT frames/chassis dont seem to have this problem.

1 out of 6 CV's I've checked has had a cracked frame rail in that area. Most always on the bottom side. Most guys just go have it weled back up. All the cracks I've seen were no more than an 1 1/4 inch long. I called our District Service Manager about this on some "out of warranty" repairs and there is no extended warranty with this failure.

My buddies brother has an 1989 CH613 with a E-6 4 valve head engine. He complains that truck just started blowing oil out of dipstick tube. Engine does not seem to have much blow-by when hot. We made sure dipstick part# and oil level were correct. We replaced rubber hose on blow-by tube and removed valve covers and blow-by cross over and cleaned out . We did notice engine has non-oiling rocker arms and rockers were alittle gummed up. Engine runs great. Truck is only used to to pull flat bed with dozer about once every 2 weeks. I only work on MP-7 and MP-8 stuff here at work and have forgotten almost all stuff on the older engines. What do you guys think could be the problem. Thanks

The #1372 was built in june of 1993, the #4272 was built in january of 1996 and the #3230 was built in july of 1995. All have the E-7 350 HP engine and all have same series of Mack rear axles. They all also have the same 107 series Mack transmission. The Mack web site might have the information of a Dealer in Mexico.

The reflashing and downloads have to be done by a dealer who is hooked direct to the Mack mainframe computer(pretty much every dealer is). I pulled up your truck and its not a CCRS engine, its just a regular ETECH, the bad thing about that is if you want to go any higher that a 400 HP you gotta pull the camshaft out and install an offset keyway on the cam gear or it will overheat bad in the summer time( we know cause we tried it). The good thing about the regular ETECH is to go to 460HP you dont need a wastegate turbo just a bigger regular style one . I first would run a hose (1/4" plastic) to the intake manifold (1/8 pipe plug port) and put a low pressure guage ( 0-50 psi) in the cab and pull a load and at full boost you should have 21-27 psi of turbo boost ( 25-30 would be great). We see alot of blown out intake manifold gaskets on these motors(around #1) Your truck was sold and was owned by someone close to our area.

I assume this CHR has a Cummins and your outside of the USA? I would like to see pics of your CHR and how they put the Cummins in there.

You can have it upgraded to a 427 or 460 HP. If its a 2001 and the engine is a CCRS style ETECH all it takes is the bigger turbo and injectors and a download for Mack. We do HP upgrades all the time. If its a 2000 or older with a regular style ETECH you have to change the camshaft keyway or it will overheat. We are a Mack dealer and when a customer wants to up the HP we fax a form to Mack with the truck info on it and what HP we want then Mack faxes us back with what parts and part#s to change. On the CCRS style ETECHs the injectors are the same on the 427 and 460 HPs. The turbo on the 427 is just a bigger one than you have now but the 460 HP usually call for a wastegate style turbo and is a few $$$ more. Most customers around here just do the 427 upgrade. Matter of fact we are doing one right now. Its a 2001 Cx613 vin 0142** with a 330-350 split HP that we are upgrading to a 427HP. Just a turbo, injectors and a download and its ready to go. Good Luck.