Mackpro

I guess I should have asked but what year model is the truck and is it deleted now or was that in the past ? And what’s the Hp on the sticker on the valve cover?

To gain access to the sensor you can turn the steering wheel all the way to the left , remove the black plastic fender/splash shield from the cab and step bracket and get down between the tire and frame and get to the sensor. Some trucks this works on and some not . Plus it helps if you got skinny long arms. To check the harness at the back of the engine you gotta go in from the inside and pull the doghouse cover off as Joey said. Also , is this a MP7? If so there were issues of the harness rubbing on the air compressor head and causing injector codes and cam sensor and crank sensor codes. All those wires run together towards the back as the injector wires go in the back of the head. On a MP8 the injector wires go in the front of the head so there’s less wiring towards the back of the engine.

There is a depth measuring tool to tell how many if any shims are needed to install a new sensor. Really the only time you need it is if you have had the upper timing gear cover off or replaced the cover. Honestly, it’s usually the harness or harness end. I’ve only replaced 1 or two of the sensors ever. Pull the sensor and check for damaged end. Using a ohm meter you should have 775-945 across the pins on sensor.

Oh yea. There was oil in the air line going to the AHI . Not good

Yes . They work pretty good if you change the filter. And the filter is super easy to replace so there no excuse not to keep it changed . Probably not the best out there but the ease of filter change makes up for it

Yea don’t know why we would have air pressure supply problems?

Yes , bolts broke on the #2 cylinder position top and bottom. Usually they come out easy but I had to drill and re-tap the threads. Same truck that has the turbo not reaching full stroke. Lots of issues. Finally get it together and try a regen and it failed. No air pressure to the AHI . Found the air drier filter was the original from 2012! Air pressure regulator to AHi stuck. Hopefully the AHI can be saved . I’ve seen some YouTube videos of taking the AHI apart and cleaning it as 90% of the failures are dirty air supply.

The turbo gauge part number is only for MP7 and 8 and the Volvo D11 and13 . The MP10 and D16 use a different gauge.

Yea the description make you wonder if your getting the right parts sometimes!

Yes , that’s what Volvo calls it lol

One of my most used tools on the MP engines. Part number 9998288 from Mack/Volvo. Goes on the inlet side of the aftercooler and pressurizes the after cooler. Intake manifold and EGR piping and cooler. Cost about $75. It comes with a metric quick connector but we remove it and tap it to 1/4” pipe threads and add a gate valve and sometimes pressure regulator and hook it up to shop air.

Always do learned data reset when changing most any engine part. On the newer trucks it’s called Adaptive Factor Reset under calibrations in Tech Tool

I’ve seen a few hit 35 them back off to 33 and be good. I’ll talk to my buddy that has the 505Plus program in a CHU and see what he’s hitting. The only ones I have seen in the 38-40 range had issues with the turbo. Which can be good in some cases if the sticks in the right position.

88800265. It’s about $63 from Mack

Arm to the rear as far as it would go and would not get to the black mark on the gauge. It’s turbo replacement time .

Actuator removed and gauge installed and arm forward. And the arm touches the black mark on the gauge.

Normally with a non-deleted MP8 33psi of boost is the max. If we got 35-40 the turbo actuator was sticking due to soot or not calibrated correctly. Also have had soot clog the turbo and restrict the VGT vains on the other end and cause low boot. We have had Mack reman turbos right out of the box not calibrated or the turbo VGT vains not moving full travel. Possibly turbo boost pressure sensor caked with soot can cause weird issues. Also the incorrect part number for the boost pressure sensor causes issues. If it were mine you Id have the turbo actuator remove and the stroke manually checked with gauge. I’ll attach pics .

Looks to be ABS related . Make sure the steer axle wheel speed sensors are pushed in all the way . Jack up the steer axle . Unplug the sensors and hook a good volt meter to the 2 wires on the sensor and set the volt meter to AC voltage. Spin the tire and the faster you spin the higher the voltage will get. Should be able to get .25 volts. Make sure the wheel bearings are not loose. Also does on only happen when it rains or wet conditions?

https://macktrucks.vg-emedia.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductId=6246&GroupId=-1 Click on view file . It’s the engine manual for the 2008 and 2009 MP8. This was the last of the paper manual for the MP engines. Not much has changed till the common rail came out. The injector torque and the rocker arm torque did change though. I believe they came out with a new design timing gear plate with gasket instead of silicone sealant. There is big difference between the MP8 and MP7’s when setting up the gear train in the rear of the engine.

I remember in the mid -80’s working on the old trucks , we would re-core the radiators . Unbolt the upper and lower tanks and install them on the new radiator core. It was time consuming but not to hard. Hopefully in your case ,maybe the core is more universal ( fit many models) and you can use your upper and lower tanks on it .

Renault KERAX/Lander Wheel Hub reduction is what I believe it is .

I looked at all the Titans here in the states and they use the Mack 202/203 series and the 95/96 series carriers or the Meritor RP/RD/RR 23164 carriers . I looked at the hub variations too and nothing wild and crazy. I know things down under vary greatly than here. Is is possible to get a VIN number or whatever ID number used there? I can look into it specifically that way.

Sorry for the delay . It’s a CXU613, built 8/5/2010. MP8 engine but unable to see what HP rating. Mack T-310 manual trans, Eaton rears on air ride with 3.55 gear ratio. It came as a sleeper truck. Only thing I don’t like on this truck is the Eaton steer axle as I prefer the Mack FXL steer axles. And also it’s got the old style 7th injector for the DPF which can be problematic in later years. Wouldn’t keep me from buying it though if the price was right .

I remember seeing a 2004 ASET AC engine that was converted from the VGT turbo to the 60 series Detroit turbo. He had a homemade metal reducer between the turbo and the aftercooler. Thing ran really good even though lots of fault codes.