Mackpro

The software page said no engine brake but I went back on the parts side and it does have the Jacob’s engine brake. As Joey said , the jakes on these engines are mostly noise makers . But there are a ton of updates that can be done to help them perform better, everything from high volume oil pumps to external oil line kits to plunger lots. Some items might no longer be available though.

Built 7/21/2000. Regular ETECH 460. Fuller 10 speed FR016210C , no engine brake, 56” flat top sleeper, originally a 427 HP but upgraded to a 460 at some point. Air ride suspension with Mack 92/93 carries 4.17 gears

Seen lots of cracked/split injector tips in the MP7s of that era. Compression blows back up through the injector and blows the fuel out of the fuel galley. Rarely see it with the MP8’s though. You can possibly take the fuel inlet line off the LH side of the cylinder head and crank over and see if compression/fuel blows out of head. We would check the injectors while we had them out. Looking at the tips carefully with a large magnifying glass. Also , we would get a rubber tip blow gun and while wearing rubber gloves, put thumb over one hole ion the side of the injector body and blow air in the other hole opposite and the crack will sometimes show.

That VIN comes back to a RD688S, built 4/11/2000. Engine is a standard ETECH 400. Trans is a Mack T-2090. steer axle is a FAW12 ( 12,000 pound I believe) . Rear carriers are Mack 200 series with 4.73 gears. . Has 10 leaf camelback springs .

Was the VECU with the connectors facing up or down? Was there any green or white corrosion in any of the 3 connectors of the VECU? Inspect the green and yellow twisted wires that go between the VECU and the ABS module beside it . The green and yellow wires are the high speed data links .

I don’t know if I mentioned this. Common problem with R series trucks with ETECH engines. The VECU ( vechicle electronic control unit) is mounted on the kick panel in front of the passenger seat down by the floor. The factory mounts it to the kick panel with the electrical connectors facing up . The windshields are bad about leaking and when the RH side does it drips right down onto the VECU. I have found the VECU’s to actually have water in them. This causes all kinds of crazy problems. Issues include having to crank engine 8-10 seconds before it will start, various guages not working, engine won’t die when you turn the key off until 8-10 seconds pass, low power/ sluggish response. This is because the high speed J-1939 data link is down and it’s running off the slow/low speed data link J-1587 so everything is responding super slow.

Unless your dealership parts guys have been there a long time , this is a common issue. Mainly because Volvo/Mack corporate likes to move and hide and erase service/parts bulletins at random times without notice. So unless the parts/service guys are exploring Dealer Portal 24/7. It was hard to keep up . The clutch cable conversion bulletin is not in the parts look up side, it’s buried in the old E-media section of Dealer Portal. The people that Volvo/Mack get to make and design their dealership software ( Dealer Portal) know nothing of the difference between the service and parts. The worst was our on-line training and testing. Our district service manager would get mad because we we’re always behind on our training and testing. We explained that the website would totally change the format every 2-3 years and no one ever could keep up on how to navigate the system. He reluctantly agreed.

The DRL module is a not a regular relay, it’s a specific relay/module and they’re a few different part numbers fir different years/models of Macks. The GR’s that replaced the GU’s have a totally different electrical system for lighting and use a LCM ( light control module) to control all lighting. Hopefully yours is a GU and not a GR when it comes to lighting problems.

On the early version Venturi pipe , the pedestal that the sensor bolts to can be removed from the Venturi pipe itself. Four small screws hold the pedestal ( that sometimes break) to the pipe. Removing the pedestal makes it easier to clean . Here’s a pic of the Venturi pipe with pedestal removed, you can see the bottom hole clogged solid . This caused low EGR flow codes and daily regen requests.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AsPtct6bw3M Here is a video that explains cleaning the ports. Your EGR diff sensor and Venturi may look different but all work the same way and port clogging still happens to the newest versions. The ports are not drilled straight through so compressed air or running something flexible through it is the only way to clean it out. Mack recommends the old pipe cleaners that the old tobacco pipe smoker used to use years ago.

On the P0401 code, it’s for low EGR flow. On a MP8 or D13 the flow is measured by the EGR differential sensor which is mounted on the vertical Venturi pipe on the RH side of engine on the outlet side of the EGR cooler. There are 2 holes in the Venturi pipe that the sensor sits over and reads EGR flow and pressure. Naturally this is soot/exhaust that flows through the pipe/sensor. Over time the 2 holes soot up and clog and restrict flow and pressure to the sensor. The engine ECM sees low flow and commands the EGR valve to open farther to reach the target EGR flow and pressure. This happens slowly over time so for awhile your pumping excessive amounts of dirty exhaust back into the engine which causes DPF over sooting and frequent regen requests. Finally the P0401 sets. There are several variations on the EGR differential sensor and Venturi pipe. The newest style has large holes in the Venturi pipe to keep from clogging. You can remove the sensor and clean out it the holes with compressed air/blow gun. The diesel smell smoke from under the cab is probably a leaking exhaust flex pipe and the engine doing or finishing a regen. Seen this many times while doing a parked regen. I’ll attach pics on the EGR diff sensor later.

Sounds about right . I been waiting for almost 4 months for a set of injectors for a 2009 MP8 . My corporate won’t let us buy aftermarket engine parts due to past issues.

Also some are some are service-able some are not. Most are in the front port and will have the plastic fuel return line going to them

It screws into the side of the fuel injection pump then the fuel return line ( that goes back to the fuel tank) screws into it. Various different styles throughout the years. Most can be re-shimmed to increase pressure. The spring can break or loose tension or the ball and seat can wear and can cause low fuel pressure or hard starting

Sometimes you just never get them to zero . I’ve done good hot regens and only got them into the low 30%. Trick is how much they rise after a few hours of driving. Sometimes the soot level will jump up a lot in the first 15-20 miles of driving and then a super slow crawl rise . I’ve left the shop at 20-25% soot and in 15 miles it jumped to 45% and was normal. Now after my 40 mile test drive if I was above 65-70% ( and I’ve hit 100 +% in 20 miles before) I would pull the filter and have it cleaned and check turbo, EGR system and boost leaks .

One of our 2013 CXU’s de-rated and lost the speedo ( dashes in the screen) , lightning bolt on , ABS /ATC light on. Had active codes for both front wheel speed sensors . Tested and both bad. Replaced both sensors and the tone wheel on one hub. Cleared codes and did 15 mile test drive . All ok. This was a manual trans truck. I know the M-drive trucks will derate on certain ABS codes but was unsure on manual transmission trucks till today.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10148618-9999.pdf We we’re on the verge of changing some EGR coolers that looked clean but had fault codes for clogged/low flow . We changed the temp sensor and harness ends and this solved several problems

Not many software updates come out for the older trucks so if you had it updated within the last year it’s probably has the newest software in it. If you had Tech Tool you could do a “learned data reset “ so the ECM could learn the new sensors. Also re-set the “ Adaptive Factor “ for the 7th injector when they are replaced or cleaned .

That all sounds good actually. Good that you got the new EGR sensor on there. What’s your spot level dropping to?

Lol , your right . I corrected it .

If your having EGR temp sensor readings that are erratic. I believe there is a service bulletin on the pins in the harness causing faults. I’ll see if I can find it .

I just went down this same road with a 2012 Volvo D13 last week. Started with EGR flow codes. Updated to the newest EGR differential sensor and venturie pipe. It’s a kit that comes with everything you need. After doing this the EGR codes went away but the failed EGR diff sensor caused EGR valve to stay open more than it should and caused over sooting of the DPF filter. So I started a regen and couldn’t get the center T2 DPF temp over 750. Borrowed a flow tester and 7th injector had really low flow . Started at 2 LPM ( liter per minute) flow , cleaned and re-tested and had 3 LPM . Spec is 4-8 LPM at 30psi . So replace the 7th injector ( no fun on the big ones, a super thin 7/8” wrench is a must) . Started a regen and temps slowly and I mean super slowly got to 880 after about 25 minutes. The DPF differential pressure was around .8psi and slowly dropping to about .5 psi at end of regen. Usually the regen temps shoot up pretty quickly on the T2 when the fuel starts dosing. To make it right I finally had to pull the filter and have it cleaned and went ahead and had the top part ( catalyst) cleaned too. After that the temps rose quickly and my DPF differential pressure only got to .3 psi at it’s highest.

Can you view the DPF differential pressure during regen?

Oh . So you have the early big 7th injector with the coolant lines ?

For AHI stuck closed or stuck open fault code . We would start with flow testing the 7th injector and replace it if not in specs. Hardly anyone outside of dealers have the flow testing kit so replacement is the normal routine. Remember there are 3 and now possibly 4 different 7th injectors on Mack’s /Volvo engines now. Testing the air to the AHI as I mentioned above and replacement of the air drier filter are must . The air pressure regulator for the AHI is usually mounted on the bracket the air drier is on .