Mackpro

Your engine software is a Step 5 and Vehicle software is step 12b so your in good shape there . That’s the newest you can get .

What’s the model and last 6 of Vin and I can have my guy see what software levels are in it

If you got that high of exhaust temps then possible boost pressure leak. While the AI engine is fairly reliable, 4.3 MPG was the usual average of all my buddies CV713’s . I always drove them with throttle pedal to the floor, loaded or unloaded. Does it have a turbo boost/manifold pressure guage in the upper left corner of the dash?

Unusual code . Check the 3 connectors on the back of the dash cluster for pins pushed out . Has the cluster been replaced? This code is commonly seen inactive after doing software update on the cluster. Cluster possibly out of another truck/wrong part number. Unhook any Qualcomm or data loggers that are on any of the data lines.

The very first one box systems had a few issues but they changed the DEF doser gasket/insulator and that seemed to solve the issue. Had a few DPF filters crack in the early ones too. Our oldest one box system truck is a 2017 with 400,000 miles and just replaced both NOX sensors this week for fault codes. However now it has codes for pumping injectors/ camshaft lob slip. Which might be the cause of the NOX codes. All one box system trucks are common rail engines

That’s awesome! We always try to do a 45 minute test drive at highway speeds on SCR issues. After 45 minutes, plug back up and check codes . Just because lights are not on the dash doesn’t always mean there are no codes pending

I believe the PPID 270 is inlet nox sensor code. The PSID 46 I’m not sure on .What’s model and last 6 of vin

The minimum efficiency is 80% , it logs the last 5 efficiencies test . If the last 5 are below 80% then it’s a ongoing problem

You getting the dreaded P20EE code?

On most models , using Tech Tool you can do a Nox conversion test or a regular regen and watch the nox levels when DEF fluid is dosing. Nox inlet will be high of course and the outlet will be much much lower. Mack never told us that the levels should be though

I even pulled the blue prints of the MRU wiring diagram and it doesn’t show it . But from the looks of the diagrams , the air intake heater and turbo actuator are related in wiring

You have a model and last 6 of vin and I can run it through tech tool . It’s the low speed data link for the dash cluster

The Mack diagrams are so screwed up I can’t find the fuse number. Do you have a fault code ? The only way I can trace it is through tech tool

Yes , when the CX first came out in 2000, the ones with 427 and 460 HP’s were running hot. SB-232-016 bulletin that came out in 2001 showed part numbers and how to install the low mount kit. Only the very first CX’s needed the kit. By October 2000 it was standard on all the CX’s.

A bad starter drawing to many amps could the the cause . Of course start by charging each individual battery separately and load testing . Them move on to the battery cables and grounds . Engine to frame ground on driver side frame rail. The ground breaker and auxiliary starter solenoid by the wiper motor on the firewall under hood . All need to be checked thoroughly. We were lucky and the shop had a large battery and starter tester and could measure starter draw when starting. It measured up to 1400 amps. We had a few bad starters they maxed that reading out . The draw was so high that it took so much voltage away from the engine ECM that it would not fire the EUPs and the engine would not start. The owner was convinced it was a fuel issue because you could use starting fluid to get the engine spinning fast enough that it took the load off the batteries and the engine ECM had enough voltage to then start running. Acted just like a fuel issue. One way to check with out a starter amp flow tester is to use a volt meter and check voltage at the fuse of the engine Ecm on the fire wall while cranking . If below 9 volts then you got voltage issue. You can also check the same way on the VECU fuse in the fuse box inside the cab .

Around the same time we were having EUP bolts breaking a lot. The angle drill was helpful on thoses too. Of course another service bulletin on updated EUP bolts came out soon after

Very very possible. We had so many bolts breaking back then I bought a angle drill so I wouldn’t have to pull the water pump housing off . The lower driver side bolt always seem to break when removing if not already broken.

If the link works, type in water pump in the search and all the bulletins will show up for the grey engines. If you type in coolant pump you will get bulletins for the MP engines. Once you choose the bulletin, click print/save file and you can view . https://macktrucks.vg-emedia.com/ProductListing.aspx?GroupId=535

I always used new factory bolts when installing a water pump on the E7’s . The new bolts come with thread sealant already applied. Back in 2002 Mack sent out a bulletin SB-215-021 to address issues with water pump bolts breaking, stretching and coming loose. This was at the request of UPS due to issues they we’re having with their trucks. I remember talking to the Mack fleet rep for UPS about the bulletin. It involved using 7 longer bolts and spacers for more clamping force and to help with bolt stretch.

The CTP and CXP were only made in 2007 and the first Mack’s to get the MP7 . It’s kinda a unique engine as it used the Mass flow sensor from the ASET AC engine to read EGR flow and temp and also used the Centrimax oil filter from the ASET engines. Best part is no DPF filter and of course no DEF. Sadly it was only produced one year. I believe the 5 you are seeing in the code readout is actually a S for SID . MID 128 is the engine ecm reporting the fault . SID 3 and 5 would be the injectors on 3 and 5 . The PPID 35 code I think is for the EGR flow. The mass flow sensor on them go out like crazy.

Being a 2007. Is this a CV713 or a CTP713 .

You truck can be programmed by the dealership to allow you to view fault codes through the dash cluster. This feature was standard in the early years of the MP equipped trucks. Then drivers started clearing the codes before the trucks made it to the dealership for repairs , due to this the feature was discontinued. It can be turned on through software download from corporate.

I don’t remember if the D12 engine used the A gauge and the D11/13 and MP7/MP8 the B . Or the other way around. The carrying case had the instructions inside. If you try hard you can time the camshaft without pulling the upper rear timing cover but it was tight. Put the flywheel on 0 degrees. Put the cam TDC mark between the marks on the cam bearing cap. Then install the cam gear but not the Damper. Then the A/B tool goes on the gear and using the correct rod in either the A or B slot on the tool , the rod will line up with a hole in the gear timing plate on the back of the engine. If the rod doesn’t line up then remove the cam gear and go a tooth right or left till it does . Always use new cam gear bolts . They are the same part number as the injector hold down bolts usually. Common rail engines don’t have a damper on the camshaft and possibly take different bolts . I only did a few common rail cams and those were due to slipped lobes . At least they were hollow and half the weight of a non-common rail cam.

I always seemed to get the cam gear a tooth off either way when doing head/cam job . I started using the cam timing tool and never had a problem. https://www.freedomracing.com/j-44514-b-engine-timing-kit.html?___store=default&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0oyYBhDGARIsAMZEuMstKXaxSdz6q2TO3MjL_8ZSRJs5c6rzxSV-w61Hq6M2SV2d1ygTAGEaAmnLEALw_wcB

I seem like I like to blame everything on cups and injectors but in my defense, here’s what I have encountered at my day job here lately. 90% of our trucks are out of warranty so we are repairing what we can till our new trucks arrive, which will probably be Spring of next year. Last week I had 2 different 2016 CXU’s MP8 with the classic hard start complaint . Each truck had 2 cups leaking and pitted injectors so replaced the bad cups and injectors and reinstalled remaining injectors with new o-rings and hold down bolts . Not to bad a job to do . I have a buddy with his own shop and works on everything ( Cats, Cummins,Detroit) but Mack/Volvo. He calls me last week and I spend a couple nights on a 2010 GU MP7 with coolant in fuel and fuel in coolant. . Yank cups out and o-rings on them are shot. New cups and luckily the injectors were OK . Re-assembled and flushed cooing system and block and fuel tanks and back on the road . Then Wednesday/Thursday night I’m on a 2016 Volvo D-13 , hard start and 3 blown cups/ pitted injectors, done and on the road . This week at the day job. 2013 CXU MP8 engine miss, injector code for #1 . Got engine hot, yanked valve cover , did electrical test on injectors and 5 of the 6 were bad . Replacing all . Should be done with that one tomorrow. Night job this week involved another 2016 Volvo D13 hard starting , 3 cups and pitted injectors on it as well. Hope to have it done by tomorrow night or Friday night . Fun times ! Lol