Mackpro

I’ve had to that a couple of times due to a batch of bad reman injectors. Plugged the fuel outlet in the front of the head and hooked up a air pressure regulator going into the fuel galley and set to 65 psi and shot air into the injectors. We sprayed soapy water down in the injector spring looking for bubbles. We also bumped the engine over to check both when the injector is pushed down and in the up position. One truck with leaking injectors would only do the start and die issue when the fuel tanks we’re below 3/4 full. And of course there were signs of fuel in the oil but not as much as I would think

Talked to the Tech this morning . About 5-6 years ago we had a 2013 Titan MP10 that spun a main bearing. They installed a Mack Basic Reman engine. Reused the turbo and injectors. Shortly afterwards the engine would start fine but after about 20 seconds it would stumble and sometimes die , it would take about another 20 seconds for it to clear up and run right . It was the exhaust rocker arms. We still had the core motor so we pulled the complete rocker arm shaft off and installed it on the reman motor and all was good . Found the reman engine did not have the newest part number rockers on it . Ordered the new ones, installed them and all was good. In September of 2015 mack released a bulletin and tool for new upgraded special o-rings for the injectors. No mention of the symptoms for this update other than to help with injector cups blowing

Had a similar MP 10 issue years back. However In our case I don’t think any incline was a factor. I’m thinking it was exhaust rocker arms were the problem. I know there was a service bulletin on upgraded injector o-rings that are only used on the MP10. I’ll probably talk to the guy in the morning that worked on it . Hopefully he will remember. .

For that year model truck in Tech Tool , all the codes are in the P***** code format. I have found no way to cross the SPN fault code format to the P code format that is now used. A lot of the time generic code readers or even the dash diag will read out codes in the older format. But when you plug up the to Tech Tool you get a totally different type of code format. Early ETECH and MP’s used the MID SID format, then around 2010 it changed to the SPN format and then around 2016 the P series fault code format came about. Very confusing of course. On your fan clutch at the electrical connector, pins 1 and 2 are a pair of twisted wires and this is fan speed signal . Pin 5 is the power to the fan speed sensor, I’m assuming it’s 5 volts. The other pins are for voltage and ground for engagement and over temp .

On the R /DM series cabs with the ETECH engines. The red engine shutdown light and the yellow electronic malfunction light are stand alone bulbs pushed in from the back of the dash onto the bulb holders . Problem with this style is the bulb falls out of the back or the bulb blows. Easy way to check is when you turn key on both lights should light up for a few seconds then go out. Many times I plugged the laptop in to find unknown active codes due to the lights not working.

I’ll run the fault code through Tech Tool sometime this morning and see if there are any test that can be done before replacing fan clutch

Everything is self contained inside the fan clutch. A faulty fan clutch, worn pins in connector, wiring damage or engine ecm issues could be the cause. In some model years the fan speed sensor is powered by a 5 volt wire that also powers other 5 volt sensors like the boost pressure sensor. An issue with a totally unrelated sensor can cause a fault code for something else using the same 5 volt wire.

When the FMI is 8 on a unit pump it’s usually intermittent as you have found . Most of the time the FMI 8 on any of the 6 EUP’s shows up when the engine is cold and goes inactive when it warms up to operating temp. However I’ve seen it do the exact opposite a few times. Usually there is no engine miss or noticeable change in performance. A lot of guys run them a while longer till the code starts staying on more than off, at least around here. This is most common on number 6 due to the exhaust pipe being so close to it . Hopefully all the heat shields are still on the EUP’s.

Last month I spent a week up in Pennsylvania running around Harrisburg/Hershey/Lancaster area. Of course thats Mack territory up there and saw more R models running on the road there than back home. And they were nice R models too, most of the ones down here are in rough shape .

We had 2 early MP8 cranks break. They were the 485 HP ( before the 505 was available) with manual transmissions and were used for heavy equipment moving. I remember cranks breaking quite often in the E6’s but never on any E7/ ETECH.

If Mack goes with the Volvo cab, at least I hope the put the easy removable floor panel in like the Mack cab. In the Volvo cab we always had to pull the Ishift trans all the way out to get the shifter cover off. The Mack cab has the huge removable floor panel you can take out and do a lot on Mdrive repairs without taking the trans out.

The 2013 could be a OBD engine, injectors abs cam could be different. I’d have a dealership check the VINs, it might start and run but could be low power and emissions problems.

Fuse 41 in the firewall mounted fuse panel supplies the air fan solenoid with 12 volts with key on . The ground wire side of the solenoid goes to the engine ECM. It makes the decision to ground the wire and turn on the solenoid. The solenoid can be plumped for either a Horton or Eaton fan clutch. One takes air to disengage ( Horton I believe) and Eaton works the opposite. Rarely saw a Eaton on trucks past 2001.

If the truck has a stand alone DEF tank then it’s mounted to the tank brackets facing towards the front of the truck. If the DEF tank in mounted directly to the fuel tank then it’s mounted high on the frame underneath the drivers side door. The cab suspension air bag often rubs the wires when mounted in that location. The fuse for the ACM is on to of the batteries and often loose battery cables are to blame

The blower motor work but just no cold air??

I’d only been working at the dealership for a year when we got in the first CH’s , first one we got was built 8-29-1988 with a E-6 350 4 valve head engine. That Mayflower built CH cab seemed like a spaceship compared to the R-models then. Probably due for a major update as bad as I hate to say it.

I was a whole lot younger back in them days . I probably couldn’t do 2 cam jobs a week now , LOL. We used a toaster oven to carefully heat the gear and put it on . But removing the gear was another story . Getting it into the press was a challenge. Finally found that cutting the camshaft in two about a foot from the gear made it easier to get into the press with out damaging the gear. Otherwise we were wrestling into the press and usually dropping it or banging into anything with in a 3 foot radius. Glad those days are over for me .

I have recently heard on the Volvo side that a few crankshafts have burned out the thrust bearings due to a clutch actuator issue on the I-shift transmissions. Even though the MP/M-drive on the Mack side is exactly the same parts it has seemed to only have shown up on the Volvo side.

This is a pic of the new and improved timing gear cover . If you zoom in you can see the gussets casted in around the hole for the engine position sensor. https://www.finditparts.com/products/8549180/mack-25102069?srcid=CHL01SCL010-Npla-Dmdt-Gusa-Svbr-Mmuu-K8549180-L187&srcid=CHL01SCL010&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuaiXBhCCARIsAKZLt3ma4VK_xs26tnv330HtNuUevV9EkCOYowYOx-Ywtwe2M_W-TW2TCQ8aAh1jEALw_wcB

Your right on rarely seeing any wear on the cam thrust washer . Back in the ETECH days I had a couple of trucks that I was chasing the 3-4 code on . I kept getting different readings on measuring the timing cover to cam gear depth. I’d measure, then use the correct shims on the sensor and test drive and get a random 3-4 code active again. I’d come back and re-measure and get a different depth measurement. One of the old guys back then associated it with “Cam floating “ as he called it. Adding the .015” shim seemed to work. I was personally doing 3 cams jobs a week back then and now wondering if pressing the cam gear off with a 20 ton press could have slightly tweaked/bent the camshaft gear. This could explain different depth measurements depending on where the engine stopped spinning when turning it off.

Also the came out with a new thicker timing cover with gussets on the engine position mounting location .

If you are throwing the 3-4 code . I will attach the bulletin on troubleshooting that code. However the service bulletin you need on shimming the sensor is SB-273-004 and I can’t seem to find it . I found that on high milage trucks , the camshaft thrust washer would be so worn that the cam would float back and forth and come to close to the sensor causing the 3-4 code. I would add an extra .015 shim and test drive and see what happens. Also replacing the vibration damper with a larger one helps on some early ETECH. Early ETECHs under 400 HP had the smaller damper/balancer. I know all Aset engines had the larger damper. https://f01.justanswer.com/HeavyEquipmentTech/7977f3ec-83db-47e4-9d6a-f6babf391cd7_Mack_Engine_pos_sensor_bulletin45-sb221037.pdf

I just remembered responding to this question months ago and was thinking that possibly some parameter changes could fix the issue. I learned today that I was wrong . We have been using the Mdrive trans with great success for the last 2 years even with our feed trailers with the auger boom. 99% of the farms we deliver feed to it works great. However, one farm is laid where we could slowly spread over a larger area and speed up the process by doing this. And it does work while moving at under 5 MPH. However is almost impossible to keep it that slow without using the brake pedal. I never really thought about it but the brake pedal on a Mdrive is basically a clutch pedal too. Hit the brake pedal and the clutch actuator pushes the clutch in and of course the PTO stops spinning. We looked in the free online Mack Body Builder website and it recommended using the REPTO flywheel RTO with the MDRIVE or Allison transmission. While this is only a minor problem for us but I could see it being a issue tailgating gravel/rock in dump trucks.

The engine speed sensor on the flywheel housing usually will have no shims. But the book says to measure and shim if needed . The engine position sensor on the front that reads the camshaft will always have 1 shim or 2. They make .015 and .030” shims. Due to timing cover thickness difference and camshaft thrust washer wear it impossible to guess what shims are needed. I will try to locate the instructions and chart and post it here.

The only difference in the HP levels is in the program. Turbos and injectors and other engine components are the same regardless of HP rating. I’m not to sure on any tuners on the market . And I’m even more skeptical of the deletes being done locally. The 485 HP tri axles GU’s running around here coming out of the quarry at 80,000 pounds seem to have no complaints on power. The last GU’s and newer GR’s around here are all spec’ed with Allison’s and 455 MP’s and run with the older 485’s with no problem.