Mackpro

Make sure the heat shields over the EECU are intact and not missing. Yes, you have a ETECH VMAC 3 . Being a RD If you have frame mounted fuel filters near the EECU make sure your motor mounts are not bad/damaged. If so , under a hard pull or going off road can allow the engine to lean over and the fuel filter stand can hit the EECU and all it takes is a tiny dent and it’s toast.

There about 4 different injector kits for the MP 8/ D13 excluding the common rail engines. It goes by emissions year. From what I remember there a kit for the 2007/08(DPF ) , 2010 emission (DEF) , 2013 OBD and one for the 2016 GHG engine. They will all physically fit and go in the engine but all have different part numbers.

The VECU stores and computes lots of info. Mileage, tire size , rear axle gear ratio, transmission type, transmission top gear ratio, pto rpm settings, throttle position, cruise control speed , road speed limits, and sends data to the dash if you have a electronic dash and also stores the VIN number . Most VECUs have the same part number except for the last couple of numbers. They end in M-1 through M -22, some cross and some dont. They can be reflashed to the correct Vin if the part number crosses to the original part number

You need the VECU . Those also failed like crazy due to the leaking windshields of the R series and the way they are mounted from the factory

Is it in a RD? If so, early RD’s with ETECHs were know to fry engine ECM’s a lot . The engine ECM’s were bolted to the RH side of the block , when the front and rear motor mounts would wear out the engine could lean enough when going off road or in a hard pull and the frame mounted fuel filter stand would hit the engines ecm and barely dent it and it would fry. Seen it a bunch. If this is the case , check or replace the front and rear motor mount rubbers and bolts

From what I remember the Original style ETECH engines came with 60 psi overflow valve, there latter came a 100 psi valve that solved some rough idle issues in a few UPS trucks we saw. The ETECH overflow valve has a barb on it for the plastic fuel return lines from the head/injectors. This is a easy way to tell a ETECH engine from a CCRS/ASET engines. Plastic line= ETECH. No plastic line =CCRS/ASET. Starting in 2002 with the CCRS on through the to end of the ASET engines the the fuel valve opened at 60 psi. So fuel psi should be at 60 + at idle and go up as rpms increase. If psi goes down as rpms go up you got a problem.

12MS517BM is usually current part number for a 99-01 ETECH engine ecm. We used to reflash used ones and put the correct data in then to match the truck/engine. As long as it was a ecm part number that interchanged with the original it would work. Mack still has plenty of Reman ECM’s for the ETECH (VMAC 3) style engines . However VMAC 1&2 are not looking good. A Reman ecm also comes only with a basic data in it for the engine to run, usually about 250 HP. You gotta get it flashed to match your original engine.

It does nothing but turn the light on in your case. However. On a 2010 and up with DEF system, it’s a big deal if there is a issue.

We have a local guy doing deletes here with good results. At least 15 Macks that I can count. The trucks all stay local or within 150 miles of here. There are no DOT emissions testing requirements around here so it’s kinda “Don’t Ask /Don’t Tell”. Only problem we had was when changing over the Borg Warner Cool logic fan clutch to the new style fan clutch, you have to reflash the engine ECM for it to work correctly. This wipes out the delete program so the customer has to go back and get it re-tuned. The corporate fleet I work for now is all Mack so no deletes but they buy the maximum extended warranty and it sure pays for itself.

FMI 3 or 5 could be the harness end as Steeler said . FMI 7 with miss or running rough could be oil control valve stuck open or stuck engine brake plunger on rocker arm

+1 on what Steeler said. Also , there is another bulletin on injectior fault code due to the engine brake malfunctioning. I believe it’s only on the MP7 that this would happen on. The FMI is key in determining what to do next

There was a Allison Guru on either a school bus fourm or a motor home forum that had lots of good tech info on the Allison’s .

We have zero issues with the Horton 2 speed air fan clutches on the AI CV’s like yours. Wonder what brand they are selling you?

Valve spring failure and bull gear failures can be a death sentence to these truck when getting over the 750,000 mile mark. We had 3 parked out back of my old work that were just to costly to repair. You do a in-frame on a million mile engine for $15,000 then only to have the bull gear go out or valve spring break later down the road. These engines are very labor intensive and the only way I would proceed would be a complete reman Mack engine. Every thing new/rebuilt and under warranty. Then you gotta ask, is this $25,000-30,000 truck worth a $30,000 engine? Roll the dice and truck on till a major failure then part it out or off to the scrap metal business, that's the way it seems to work around here sadly.

Had the same thing happen to me on an old CH . I had to turn the crankshaft just right for it to clear.

Message set to ya about fault code/service bulletin

If the previous work was done in your shop and you know which laptop was used, you can go to “latest selections” and chose the truck from the list and connect ( you actually don’t have to be hooked to the truck to do this). Then go to “product history “ at the top. You can go back and view the fault codes from the other times that laptop was hooked to that truck.

Also , what was the actual fault code number. I saved all my tech bulletins and might have one dealing with the code

Somewhere around 2013/2014 they change “learned data reset” to “function parameters reset” it’s under the “calibrate” tab in PTT. Sometimes software updates help with weird fault codes. We have PTT where I work now but it’s the lowest level customer version. Trying to talk the boss man into upgrading to the customer version with software programing .

When I went to the Mack MP engine class in Atlanta they showed us why they use angle torque method. First they showed us why “not” to use the new modern angle tourque wrenches. They had a new Snap on angle torque wrench and fooled it many times by turning the wrench slowly. Then they showed us why angle torque is more accurate. During torquing say a head bolt to 150 ft pounds . That if you stop while turning the bolt ( stopping at say 130 ft pounds) due to the wrench hitting the fire wall then back the wrench back up to start pulling on it. To get the bolt started turning again while it at 130 ft pounds will probably require more than 150 ft pounds of tourque . So the Tech hears the click and thinks thes at 150 when really he’s at 130-135. Kinda hard to explain but they showed us right there in the shop and I saw what they were talking about.

Lots of corrosion issues in that fuse box by the clutch pedal. Bottom of the driers side windshield leaks and drips into the fuse box. There was a large recall that was done due to this issue.

The expansion tank and radiator are considered chassis items so 1 year/100,000 miles from in service date. You can buy extended chassis warranty. The fleet I work for now has extended chassis warranty on all the Mack’s. Covers about everything but tires, bulbs, belts, brake shoes and clutches. You will usually go through 2 turn signal switches , a radiator and 2 expansion tanks, a chassis wiring harness and various ABS sensors under the extended chassis warranty.

It’s not in my SPN code list for Mack. Usually the “SPN” codes are for 2010 Mack’s . On the 2005’s they were usually MID and SID fault code. If active you can flash out the 2 digit Mack fault code with the cruse control switches

On tech tool, click on “Test”. Then select engine. Then intake and exhaust. Then I believe, above or below the line for “Regen” you will see Exhaust Aftertreatment Diagnostics. , click on that line and on that screen towards the bottom you will seen the soot ratio reset button.

Did you zero out the door ratio after having the filter cleaned? If not , the ecm still thinks the filter (even though it regent fine) is ash packed or nearing capacity. Do learned data reset and zero out soot ratio and do a regen and do a 20 mile test drive and see how much the soot ratio rises.