Mackpro

The download has to be done at a dealer. The dealer first has to send a request to Mack then if Mack approves it , they turn on the download for the dealer. I will message you on the turbo part numbers.

55 ft pounds for 10mm studs and 65 ft pounds for 12 mm studs. And thats dry ,no lube. The EUP call code is I think on the lower right. 4 numbers but on some year models the second digit is a letter.

My buddy down the road has a 1999 CL 460XT with Mack 18 speed he bought new. Got a million 200,000 miles on her. Did a complete inframe at about 950,000. Replaced the dump bed at about the same time. Only problems. Torque limit switch was unhooked when new but needs to be hooked back up because he breaks an axle shaft about once a year or so in soft ground. The CL shares the Superliner/MH single bolt rear motor mounts that need yearly replacement if you use it hard. The early ETECH's suffered cam/lifted problems that were later updated. The Jacobs engine brakes worked ok when new but in higher mileage units they just became noise makers unless updated

Yes, FJH, the 460 CCRS was not worth the hassle. We got some in trade and we detuned them to 427HP and never had a issue. Constant wastegate issues with over boosting or under boosting then de-rateing.

Your engine is a CCRS engine which is good because to do any HP changes, you dont have to change the Cam gear key way like in the older ETECH engines. You have the EM7-300 engine with 1460 FT lb of torque. The injectors are all the same regardless of HP till you get to the 460 HP. To get any gains in HP and torque you got to go the 427HP which is 1560 FT lb of torque. This requires a turbo change and download. I never suggest the 460 HP in a CCRS engine. There is some Boost pressure sensor wiring that must be added and the wastegate turbo required for the 460 is very problematic in our experience. Then you run into your trans which is really suited to the torque curve of the way your engine is set up now.

As far back as that motor is shoved , the driver could use the back half of the valve cover as a cup holder and arm rest. Otherwise, not bad.

Whats the model of the truck? And complete VIN would be better, There is a 300A, EM7-300 and regular 300. Plus being a 2001 it could possibley a CCRS engine as well.

According to Mack , You have the Powerleash engine brake. You might pull the valve covers and check the rocker arm hold down bolts. We see lots of the bolts break and cause the rocker arm shaft to bend and crack letting oil into the engine brake oil passageway causing the enging brake to engage enough to cause problems

I checked you VIN and you dont have the Step 12 B installed but that is not your problem. Throttle pedal or wires going from throttle pedal to VECU could be shorting to ground or rubbing. Check engine ECM connectors for coolant in the ECM. Any J1939 fault codes inactive? Load test batteries, then check cables to starter and wires from starter up to AUX starter solinoid behind cab and also the ground breaker mounted there.

Replace the oil pressure sensor, Mack has gone through 4-5 different sensor changes, the new one that is out now seems to work great. Its located on the driver side of engine to the right of the engine ECM. Its not the one on top of the oil filter stand.

Not all Mack dealerships are Cummins certified. We're not and don't want to be. I don't want to open that can of worms to deal with . We have enough trouble with keeping up with issues with Mack. The new Anthem and CH model will be more like Volvo than ever before. They will be using the LCM ( Light Control Module) just like the Volvos. Makes chasing lighting problems much more fun.

Id try a crystal sub regen and clear codes and let them try it for a day. The newer truck have a NOX conversion test that you can do and see if the NOX levels are in spec. Usually issues will show back up in 45 min of drive time if you want to take a long test drive. Always remember to plug PTT back up , hit refresh in the fault code screen, and check for any codes that came back. Dont go by what it says in the dash display. Lots of times if the outlet NOX sensor is giving a high reading , it wants you to do a parked regen because it knows what the NOX levels should read during a parked regen. In your case parked regen request has nothing to do with high soot ratio.

Also did you do the DEF doser volume test.

I just ran PTT in simulator mode with your VIN and code entered. You right, after the DEF pump pressure test it kinda leaves you hanging. There are no bulletins on this exact code. Did the dealer also update the ACM and cluster software. We always do all 3.

We see lots of cracks in the lower DPF housing right above the DEF doser. We mig weld a bead over the crack and so far have not had any come back yet. Yea Tech Tool never talks about that kinda stuff.

Programming the ECM's on the grey motors is not easy as it has lots of different steps involved. And if your replacing a ECM its even worse. Thats one good thing about the MP engines. Programming is super easy and any one in the shop could do it.

I just got done working on a few new LR's last week. They are quite small on the inside and Im a small guy. Are you looking for a arm rest to mount on the RH side door?

Do you have the SPN 5394 - SPN 4094 code cheat sheet from Mack? If not message me and Ill get it to you.

Wonder if if the DEF level is really that low? The turbo (actuator) is on the same J1939 data link that the DEF guage is on. We have seen the turbo actuator go out but only show the DEF level sensor bad. The fault code don't always point to the actual failed component on these engines. You gotta read between the lines a lot.

Always start with the battery connections then on to the starter then the firewall pass throughs. Load test each battery separately. Low voltage causes weird problems with the MP engines

They both are ABS codes. Anytime you see a M136 or MID 136 its ABS. The SID 48 is the steer axle left side modulator valve code. Bendix has all their manuals online for free. Eaton Fuller, RH Shepard steering and Bendix all have their manuals online for free, unlike most manufactures.

Should be the T1 sensor located at the top of the DPF where the flex pipe from the turbo comes into the DPF

If you still havent gotten the info you need. Message me with your VIN and I can pull it up and e-mail it to you . Im the warranty admn at our dealership.

Grand Rock is your best bet

At our dealership we have been having lots of problems with mis-labeled exhaust pipes so I'm not surprised .