Mackpro

Ahhhhh that European Reliability.......

Yes , your at step 12b

What's last 6 of vin? And CV713 ?

Being the code is for low EGR flow. Either the EGR diff sensor is not reading correctly or the cooler is plugged. In the first bulletin it talks about the cooler being plugged and replacing the cooler and updating the ECM programming to prevent the cooler from clogging again. We always try the updated EGR diff setup and a engine ECM update. Then see if it solves issue. If code returns the replace EGR cooler, this is last resort as the turbo bolts usually break off and is never fun.

Dont waste your money on the throttle pedal. Hopefully you have the Step 12B in the vechicle module ( VECU) with the throttle pedal calibrated. The VECU is all about the throttle pedal not the engine module (EECU). So once the VECU is at Step 12B and throttle pedal calibrated your as good as it gets on that end. The rest is then in the engine module (EECU). Here in the EECU is where the different HP levels and special "Smoke files" or "Australian " files come into play. The VECU controls throttle, tire size, gear ratio, trans type, cruise control and road speed and the VIN is stored. Always keep your VECU with the truck. You can reprogram the EECU with different files from different trucks ( as long as ETECH to ETECH , AI to AI, ect)

if 2000CL713 had a code reader and could tell us the FMI it would help. If FMI is 8, I'd keep driving. FMI 8 is abnormal frequency response. This usually happens at cold start up and goes away as engine warms. Once or twice a week = ok. Every day then change EUP. If FMI is other than 8 then EUP or harness issues

Yep , that's new newest sensor but the Venturi pipe might not be updated

This bulletin might not be the newest but shows the old and new type sensors EGR Diff sensors.pdf

Your EGR Diff sensor. Does it have the round plug or is it the newer one with the yellow sliding lock? EGR low flow MP.pdf

Yes , the chrome one that covers the top of the EUP's

Heat is what kills them. Always make sure you reinstall your heat shields, they are on there for a reason. #5 and 6 seem to go bad first due to the exhaust pipe running right by them. On the AC engine #2 and 3 God bad due to right behind EGR cooler.

Yes, if one of the speed/timing sensors go out , you have to crank the engine about 6-8 seconds before it starts.

When you pull up your fault codes on the screen. The 5 is actually an "S" for SID. So you had a SID of 2. The MID 128 means engine fault. I attached the code list and harness repair Harness injector terminals.pdf 2008 MID fault codes.pdf

That would be a speedometer fault if that wasn't set correctly. I have seen your 3-2 code active with key on/engine off but once Engine started codes goes inactive

Most guys leave the sensor in when R&R a flywheel. It's easy to hit the sensor when installing the flywheel. I've seen clutch brakes come apart and bounce around and tear up sensors but that's mostly on the MP engines

I'll pull it up in the morning and see what we got on it

I'll attach some harness info in the morning and some injector info if I can locate it

Either injector or harness end at injector

Looks like # 2 injector open circuit, but let me make sure

I take that back. your AMI-370 has 1480 torque. The AI-400 has 1360. And the 427 has 1460 ft pounds of torque. So really , going to a 427 you will gain HP but loose some torque. I think Id first get the Step 12B done and also any other software update for the EECU and VECU and try that. Get a good boost pressure guage and see that your in the 28-36 psi spec.

Cool!

The injectors are probably getting close to needing replaced so Id go with 427 ones and the download.

It is the exact same engine as a 400. Only difference is a download. To go bigger its pump, turbo and injector time plus software. The 375 and 400 both put out 1460 ft pounds of torque. The 427 and 454 both put out 1560 . Get a good boost pressure guage and under a hard pull you should be around 22-28 psi . Hopefully you be above 25 psi. Plus I'd have the pump timing checked and bumped 1.5 degrees (max) over what is says on the valve cover ( should say 6 degrees).

Yes thats is the correct solinoid. Try using the side port as the exhaust. However I dont know which end would be supply and which should be delivery. You wont hurt is by trying.

Your 3-2 code with the FMI of 2 is data erratic on the timing sensor which is on the side of the flywheel housing. Check the sensor tip for damage and the wiring harness end connector. The 3-4 code is the cam timing sensor on the front cover. Both sensors have the same part number