Mackpro

The 300A uses 736GB419M . The 375A uses 736GB419M2. The AI400 also uses the M2's. The AI 427 and 460's use the M3 injector

The FBI Crime Statistics must be racist. 13% of the US population causing 52.2% of murders. I'm not a racist but what can you say? Where I live I'm more worried about the white cracked out meth users .

Heres our conversation. His question " I have a 2005 cv713 vin-013505. I broke a valve last week and trashed a head but got it shutdown fast enought to save the liner and piston. It didnt brake a rocker or bend any push tubes. It did brake the roller on the lifter and kill the lobe on the cam for the exhaust on #5. Can i use a cam out of an ac engine on mine to eliminate the exhaust bump on the ai cam? I would like to swap my ai cam for an ac cam. I dont have an engine brake at all on this teuck. Is 454GC5236A a good one for me to use or 454GC5244." My responce "We have actually never done it here at our shop. My friend who has 2 CV's was waiting for a cam to go down and were were gonna do the AC cam swap. But he traded them in on 2 new GU's so we never got to try it. Whats crazy is that the 5236A cam is $860, the 5244 cam is $1469, the 5246 cam is $843 and the 5247 cam is $1586. I attached the bulletins on them. Wish I could help more . Number one thing is to check the "H" rings ( roller lifter holder)and make sure that it hasn't moved up in the block. If it were me Id try the 5246 camshaft but like I said I have never done this before. " His results "Thanks for your information on the cams. I got the truck put back together a couple weeks ago. I put the 5246 cam in along with a mech pump e7 exh manifold, e7 350 hot side housing on my stock turbo and stage 1 rochester nozzels. Ive dropped egt on the same pulls by 250* and coolant temps from 210 to 190. The truck gives a slight puff of black smoke on the up shift and pulls very strong from 1300 rpm on up. Thanks again for the cam info. Thought i would let you know how things went"

I gave some info to a guy on here who put a AC camshaft in his AI engine. I will post our private message and bulletins on here. His had no engine brake so it made it easier I believe. Best I remember there are 4 different AC camshafts. Camshaft changes and part #.pdf Camshaft changes ETECH ASET.pdf

I have not seen one installed or know anyone who has used one.

Yours shows to be the rectangle OBD connector. Should be right above where the clutch pedal should be( if you had one).

I know the newer Allison's can handle the 505 HP but unsure on the older ones. AI-300A has 1200 ft pound of torque and the AI-375A has 1350 ft pound torque.

They make a AI-300A and a AI-375A just for use with the Allison trans you have . To go the the 375A you have to change to the bigger injectors and get you dealer to do the HP software download. To go to 427 or 460 you will need both turbo and injectors and download. And Im not sure Mack will bump it up that high with the Allison trans.

I tried the resistor thing along time ago and could not get it right. I've seen lots of homemade delet's done but still sets the low EGR flow code going down the road. This is the best thing I have seen on the internet so far . https://otrperformance.com/product/mack-aset-ac-egr-performance/

Monday I'll get my charts out and see if a HP software upgrade is available without changing any hard parts. Sometimes you can go to a 350 with just software

Your vehicle ECM is at Step 9B, you need the Step 12B installed , and there is updates for the engine ECM as well. This will help with throttle response. It shows you have a AI300A with a Allison trans

What's the model and last 6 of your VIN and I can look and see what your software levels are

Yep, you heated the ETECH cam gear in a oven and dropped it on the key wayed cam shaft. Camshafts in the MP motors just lift off the top. I like thoses because you don't have to remove the hood.

I'd like to see more pics of your cam tool. We use the shoe and man handel it in. Back in 2000 through 2002 I was doing 3 ETECH cam jobs a week for weeks at a time , only to redo some as new updated parts came out. Wish I had that energy now!

Here's some more info I forgot about. 4094 inducement stra.pdf

Im thinking outlet should be below 150 but not sure. They only made the spark assisted DPF with SCR/DEF for one year. This Bulletin is for the catalized DPF/SCR but might have some tips in it. Also , software updates help alot sometimes. SPN5394 SPN4094 code.pdf

What year and model of engine? If ETECH style its the engine position sensor on front of timing cover. If MP style , its the camshaft sensor on RH side of rear upper timing cover. MID 128, SID 021, FMI 2, 3 and 8

These are our work trucks. Low mileage injector failures with one hydro-locking the engine. However our oldest one is high milage with no issues. When we were investigating theses failures we were shocked that we're not the only ones with this issue. So far 2 of our 3 have had this issue. A friend of my mine took his on vacation and up north east and broke down in Pennsylvania with same injector issue. A quick google search shows cracked heads, blocks and rod through the side of blocks most can be traced back to injector issues. All theses were F150's. In a car it would be a fun little engine. But I don't like having to deal with our local car dealers so I try to stick with tried and true reliable designs that even I can work on if need be. This is also why I won't own a diesel pickup.

My first new truck I bought was in 1994. Ford F-150 300 6 cylinder , 5 speed, 4x4 regular cab short bed. 3.50 gears and full lockers , rubber floor mat. I special ordered it , $16,000. Drove her 12 years and except for a battery , fan clutch and a u-joint and tires, I never did anything to it. I saw it last year still driving down the road. I later bought a 2004 and a 2006 F150 , needless to say I didn't have them 12 years.

Uni-body construction is not for everyone. In my situation we need constant towing ability but not to the point of needing a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. Towing my jet ski or one UTV or golf cart I could get by with a small/ mid size front wheel drive SUV. My camper and boat would be a no go. I've seen enough eco-boost engines turn into a hand grenade that I won't go down that road till some serious longevity issues are addressed ( that don't require very expensive repairs) and I was a ford man for 20 years. I'll keep chugging along in my 5.3 and 6.0 Chevy gas guzzlers with their full frames and are cheap to repair and most of all safe for my family to ride in. Safety over rides MPG for me and my family.

I for one hope they don't add any new models mainly because I have to work on them. We do good enough to keep them running as is and keep parts. Not to mention keeping techs to work on them. In the next 5-10 years I see 2-3 week wait times for engine/emissions technical repair. My count down timer is already set for my last day , sadly I have 4687 days left . I going to see if I can pre apply for the Walmart door greeter job!

They didn't come out with 505 till 2010 SCR/DEF engine. 485 was a big as you could get back then.

Same motor. The AMI's were Maxidyne and the AI was Econodyne. Different programimg for HP/torque curves. The AMI's seem to made their HP at a littler higher RPM's . At last thats what I can tell by the charts.

Best I remember they had a little triangle shaped support strap that bolted to the top of the water pump housing over to one of the head bolts that was threaded. Thoses straps broke and or were thrown away over time. Without the support strap the weight of the fan clutch and belt tension would break the water pump housing.

25101415 is the new part number, the old part # was a 64MT450A