Mackpro

These are our work trucks. Low mileage injector failures with one hydro-locking the engine. However our oldest one is high milage with no issues. When we were investigating theses failures we were shocked that we're not the only ones with this issue. So far 2 of our 3 have had this issue. A friend of my mine took his on vacation and up north east and broke down in Pennsylvania with same injector issue. A quick google search shows cracked heads, blocks and rod through the side of blocks most can be traced back to injector issues. All theses were F150's. In a car it would be a fun little engine. But I don't like having to deal with our local car dealers so I try to stick with tried and true reliable designs that even I can work on if need be. This is also why I won't own a diesel pickup.

My first new truck I bought was in 1994. Ford F-150 300 6 cylinder , 5 speed, 4x4 regular cab short bed. 3.50 gears and full lockers , rubber floor mat. I special ordered it , $16,000. Drove her 12 years and except for a battery , fan clutch and a u-joint and tires, I never did anything to it. I saw it last year still driving down the road. I later bought a 2004 and a 2006 F150 , needless to say I didn't have them 12 years.

Uni-body construction is not for everyone. In my situation we need constant towing ability but not to the point of needing a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. Towing my jet ski or one UTV or golf cart I could get by with a small/ mid size front wheel drive SUV. My camper and boat would be a no go. I've seen enough eco-boost engines turn into a hand grenade that I won't go down that road till some serious longevity issues are addressed ( that don't require very expensive repairs) and I was a ford man for 20 years. I'll keep chugging along in my 5.3 and 6.0 Chevy gas guzzlers with their full frames and are cheap to repair and most of all safe for my family to ride in. Safety over rides MPG for me and my family.

I for one hope they don't add any new models mainly because I have to work on them. We do good enough to keep them running as is and keep parts. Not to mention keeping techs to work on them. In the next 5-10 years I see 2-3 week wait times for engine/emissions technical repair. My count down timer is already set for my last day , sadly I have 4687 days left . I going to see if I can pre apply for the Walmart door greeter job!

They didn't come out with 505 till 2010 SCR/DEF engine. 485 was a big as you could get back then.

Same motor. The AMI's were Maxidyne and the AI was Econodyne. Different programimg for HP/torque curves. The AMI's seem to made their HP at a littler higher RPM's . At last thats what I can tell by the charts.

Best I remember they had a little triangle shaped support strap that bolted to the top of the water pump housing over to one of the head bolts that was threaded. Thoses straps broke and or were thrown away over time. Without the support strap the weight of the fan clutch and belt tension would break the water pump housing.

25101415 is the new part number, the old part # was a 64MT450A

I this it's called " Customer Defined Software " . We have run into some ABF freight trucks that all the parameters were burned into the ECM's. My buddy bought a ABF 2002 CX and when I went to raise the road speed, it kept going back to 55mph. We finally callled the tech support guys and found out about "Customer Defined Software ". We had to do a total reflash of both of ECM's and this solved the issue!

After looking at 2 different charts I have found on the CCRS engines, Some 350's and 400's used different turbo part #'s. However some used the same. Turbocharger part numbers.pdf

I found the SID 230 in the book. What year/model of truck? 2008 MID fault codes.pdf

With early 98 through 2002 ETECH engines , the only difference between 350 and 400was the program. However Mack wanted us to install a larger vibration damper if the engine had the smaller one on it. Being yours is a 2002 it could have either the ETECH or the CCRS style engine in it. I believe the CCRS engines were like the ETECH and the 350/400 used same everything but programming.

A few months ago I posted the Mid and SPN fault code list for 2007 up to 2013 MP engines here . Some time in 2014/2015 they started using the P****** code listing. Due to Mack /Volvo trucks , after 4 o'clock on Friday I find myself far away from the Internet and class 8 trucks in general. Lol. Hopefully the search engine works and you can find what I posted and your fault listing is in there. What is the MID ?

Only time red and yellow lights come on at same time is low coolant sensor,

For an auto trans, one wire is grounded and the other goes to gauge. VMAC2 MR scan0497.pdf

ASET VGT.pdf

Shoot air directly into actuator and see if arm on turbo goes down. Only apply 30-40 pounds as not to blow diaphragm. There is instructions on manually adjusting actuator rod on a VGT turbo but I can't attach the bulletin at this time

Snap on part # GLD139 if you got money to blow! LOL

I have seen starter draw to high and pull voltage away from ECM and cause crank no start. Check volts at ECM durning cranking. Needs around 9.5 volts min to start.

If you ever get th ECM to power up. There is a big cap nut on the front of the fuel pump that faces the fan . . It is 1 " or bigger. Remove it and stick your finder in the hole. Turn key on and push throttle pedal to the floor, you should feel the rack push your finger .

I forgot, being a 96 it's a VMAC-2 with 1 ECM. I have attached the VMAC-2 troubleshooting service manual but sadly there is no "Crank no start" troubleshooting info in it like the VMAC1 and 3 manuals. It does have some ECM info in there though. VMAC 2 manual.pdf

Jump across the big solinoid in the fuse box ( assuming its a pre-ETECH truck). That should power up both ECM's

Looks like DPF Diff sensor showing high soot, Look at MID 128 PID 81 FMI 12 2008 MID fault codes.pdf

If you can't shut off engine and the throttle pedal won't work and your idling at 900 rpm , the vehicle control unit VECU has lost coms with the engine ECM on the 1939 data line yellow and green twisted wires

Install some coolant shut off valves on the heater hoses on the engine if you don't already have them, it should help a lot.