Mackpro

Remove actuator. Turn arm on turbo to the right/forward toward front of truck. There is a hole through the arm and a hole in the turbo housing. They should be lined up. Go into VGT calibration and follow the commands

People always forget about the bullgears/timing gears on a MP. That's why I push the Mack Reman engine when overhaul or major engine failure occurs. Why spend 20K on an overhaul when a year later your bull gear goes out and your screwed again. Drop in the reman and it's all covered! Downfall is it's 30-35K

Unplug the wire at each valve cover and retest. If its still coming on then you got a solinoid stuck open on top of the jake housing or other internal issue.

My boss saw one at a Mack meeting a few weeks ago, He didn't take any pictures though. At my Mack school last week on the common rail engine. they told us the next big step will be fuel milage requirments. more areo stuff and low resistance tires, the 2 speed water pump, clutched air compressor and lots of wind tunnel testing stuff.

We set up the manual trans trucks so that if the 5 mph derate happens they can unplug the speeding sensor and will only loose a small percent of power . We set the "engine speed at any error" to 2100 rpm. Normally it's set at 1400 rpm. Also if you don't have a laptop with"Tech Tool " on it , there is little you can do but go to the dealer

The good news is . Only major changes are above the top of the cylinder head. The injection pressure has been lowered from 33,000 psi down to 22,000. This should help with injector and cup life. Injectors 2-4-6 are pumping injectors that preform just like the older MP Injectors but also presssuize the common rain for injectors 1-3-5. Injectors 1-3-5 can also be removed without removing rocker arm shaft. It's really super simple if you really see it in person. The camshaft is hollow and lighter weight and there is no balancer/vibration damper on the camshaft now. The 2 speed water pump is simple and the clutched air compressor has been in use by Volvo for a few years now. The harness under the valve cover is replaceable without changing the whole engine harness. And the engine sounds much quieter than before. The air intake for the air compressor no longer goes over the valve cove . It's now plumbed directly into the air filter housing. This makes removing the valve cover faster and easier. I doubt we will ever see many of the turbo compound set up's. All in all I feel better about the engine.

Sorry double post again. Lots to say about the engine. 98% all good! Here are the only downfalls I see. You have to crank on it a little longer to start than the old engine. About 2 seconds, feels longer as I'm used the older MP's starting right off . They removed the fuel pressure sensor on the filter stand , if you want view fuel pressure you have to view it on the AHI/ 7th injector shut off valve side. And the AHI/ 7th injector shut off valve is made into the fuel filter stand which will be harder to replace if it fails. The calibration/trim codes for the injectors are 38 digits long but can be scanned and entered with a QR gun . And lastly if you have to remove the injectors you have to replace all 6 of the fuel rail tubes. They are non-reusable. These changes mostly affect techs that work on the engine.

Lots to say about the engine. 98% all good! Here are the only downfalls I see. You have to crank on it a little longer to start than the old engine. About 2 seconds, feels longer as I'm used the older MP's starting right off . They removed the fuel pressure sensor on the filter stand , if you want view fuel pressure you have to view it on the AHI/ 7th injector shut off valve side. And the AHI/ 7th injector shut off valve is made into the fuel filter stand which will be harder to replace if it fails. The calibration/trim codes for the injectors are 38 digits long but can be scanned and entered with a QR gun . And lastly if you have to remove the injectors you have to replace all 6 of the fuel rail tubes. They are non-reusable. These changes mostly affect techs that work on the engine. i will report the good news in another post soon.

Sorry double post! Been hanging out at an Irish pub to late , down by the Mack school in Atlanta tonight! Check screen in lower radiator "Y" pipe, make sure 16 pound radiator cap, pull water pump and do pressure test through weep hole. Make sure small hose from surge tank to upper radiator hose is not blocked. The new 180/185 degree thermostat combo. There should be lots of threads on here with the service bullietins attached for coolant push , head gaskets are rare for this engines but do happen. With the one piece surge tank, fill to edge of fill tube (about 4" down) cold. Test drive and run for a day, if the low coolant alarm ( both lighting bolt and shut down light at same time) doesn't come on it's ok for now. Even with a perfect system, if your run it with the cap off it will push coolant out and people freak out.

Check screen in lower radiator "Y" pipe, make sure 16 pound radiator cap, pull water pump and do pressure test through weep hole. Make sure small hose from surge tank to upper radiator hose is not blocked. The new 180/185 degree thermostat combo. There should be lots of threads on here with the service bullietins attached for coolant push , head gaskets are rare for this engines but do happen. With the one piece surge tank, fill to edge of fill tube (about 4" down) cold. Test drive and run for a day, if the low coolant alarm ( both lighting bolt and shut down light at same time) doesn't come on it's ok for now. Even with a perfect system, if your run it with the cap off it will push coolant out and people freak out.

Yea if you got a DPF delete software installed it might not look at that sensor and your guage wouldn't show a reading and also no fault code

In Atlanta till Friday Going to Mack school on the new Mack common rail engine. Hopefully I will feel better about it when I get out of class . I will report what I find out.

Yea , I believe that a record!

I was thinking its the one right as the exhaust goes into the tp DPF assembly ( assuming its the under cab model and not the stand up DPF) . If its fauty you should get a fault code otherwise it could be the dash cluster

Mack had a recall for the flasher on alot of models. The flasher is a 2 prong located under the triangle cover on top of the dash.

AI engines have a narrow torque curve on most models. If your gonna run full size 24.5's you need 4.42 to 4.64 gears. I would stick with what you got. On the older ETECH's you could get by with even 4.17 gears but with the AI's no way.

Warranty time is 5.8 hours plus all the add on's ( steam clean, test drive and so on) . We can usually get paid about 9 hours total on the job. In actual real world its about 8 hrs to do just the harness on a 2008 CHU.

We have a problem child truck that is doing that, we found what we thought was the EGR cooler cooler as it was wet, if it comes back I'll look into the cups leaking . The coolant in the exhaust also messed up the $4000 SCR hot box

Make sure you get the good oil/heat resistant gray wire ties for under the valve cover and around the turbo. Make sure you keep the harness away from the timing gears under the valve cover at the back as well

It was real screwy trying to navigate the older trucks in Impact parts screen. When I clicked on the axle beam it went to a page with 2 choices and either path I took gave different axle beam arrangments. However the leaf spring results were the same regardless. Hopefully someone else here who's at a dealership and have a try at it.

Turbo or turbo actuator could be an issue. We have had turbos cause no start issuses. Dealer should have done turbo function test and looked at actuator motor effort. If it was high then turbo and actuator should be looked at.

The truck is still listed in the Mack parts system. It was built on 11-29-1984. The parts break down for the front axle beam gives 2 choices of what front beam was on it. Either a FAW 536C or a FAW 537C. When I pulled up the leaf springs assembly it shows a 3 leaf 2QK3345 springs.

I see the problem! Your steering gear box is on the wrong side of the frame! LOL. Just kidding! We always set up the pump timing 1 to 1.5 degrees above what ever it say on the valve cover using the A/B light that plug into the side of the injection pump. Any higher that 1.5 degrees we found that the engine will over heat in the summer months.

It takes alot or work , In two years I've worn 3 high speed buffers polishing my tri-toon. Then its a constant job to keep it looking good. I spend about an hour a side every weekend in the summer. I use White Diamond polish then wash the haze off with a rag soaked in mineral sprits and then wash with soap and water before anything dries. .

Poor cab ground, Check the cab ground breaker on the firewall for loose wires. You can test by using jumper cables from the negitive on the batteries to a good grounging spot on the cab