Mackpro

If no fault codes, Im thinking check fuel pressure and turbo/boost /intake/air filter first . If truck has single exhaust , check muffler for broken baffle blocking exhaust flow . I've seen the muffler issue more than a few times.

I don't know for sure. I know max boost is around 33 psi. The truck will also derate for low boost as well. I don't know if the ECM looks at boost when controlling fuel delivery. Here are a couple of service bulletins on the 460 CCRS. CCRS wastegate operation.pdf Wastegate 4-5 code CCRS.pdf

They can make as many new cars as they want. However now that my mandated Obama-care health insurance cost me more a month than my $827 house payment, I'll never buy one. I'm keeping my 2002 and 2004 Chevy truck and Tahoe. Let the "Free Market" decide what cars the consumers want built, not the government.

On the CCRS engines, I would not go to 460 HP. With the 460 HP you have to use the wategated turbo and install boost sensor. If for any reason the boost is not in the correct range (to high or to low) , the ECM will derate power. We have problems with keeping the boost just right after the truck get some miles on them. What we do is download to 427 and put the 427 turbo on but use 460 HP injectors. Injector part # 736GB420M3X. After downloading to 427 HP, we go back to Mack and ask for engine data file 1MS5135. Runs with the 460's then.

Here's a bulletin on it. Read it carefully. They had alinment problems and you had to also change another pipe. Early flex pipe issue.pdf

As I have said before on here, Owning a new truck is now like owning a BMW ( or insert any European auto maker). You better get extended warranty or ditch it as soon as the warranty runs out. I"ve seen lots of 2008 and even 2010 trucks junked and sold for parts because of the cost of repairs were too high.

And what is the actual fault code that you are getting?

Heres some Mack tips on the J1939. Data Link2.pdf Data Links1.pdf

Heres the kit # and instructions. clutch cable kit.pdf

99% sure its the EGR elbow from the EGR valve to the cooler. Thoses can be a pain to get sealed . Any tme we have it loose/off , we always pressure test whole system before we put the exhaust piping back on. The end of the elbow that goes on the EGR cooler has a floating ring in it that has to be sealed perfectly. Of course you can't see if its lined up because the clamp covers it. Last week I fought with one for about an hour before I got it sealed.

Start narrowing it down, First unplug the rear tail light harness back by tail light and retry, then, unplug complete hood harness and retry. Then unplug turnsignal switch. There was a recall on the fuse panel by the clutch pedal on some trucks for water getting in to relays and fuses

Try the one piece surge tank and look at these. Coolant Push ASET.pdf Oil cooler screen.pdf One Piece Surge Tank.pdf

Here's a some tips that a guy at Mack sent me years ago. scan0310.pdf

In my notes on 2010 and up trucks, you should have 1.8 to 2 psi of boost during regen. Also did you do a DRV valve test? If its not working , temps wont get hot enough for a parked regen. The early 2010 emissions engines had DRV valves, Its the valve on the turbo output pipe, sometimes called a turbo by pass vave

I'd rather have Hino. Let the Japanese have a shot at it. I'm done with that other side of the globe!

If the laptop says 32 psi thats good. All AC engines have a boost pressure sensor even if they dont have a guage in the dash. The laptop was reading off that sensor. Single or dual exhaust? We had several trucks here with single exhaust and the baffle would break inside the muffler and get side ways blocking off the exhaust flow.

Hopefully you have a Boost /manifold pressure guage in the upper LH side of guage cluster. A good running ASET AC engine will have 33 psi of boost under a load.

How low is low? 59 psi is where the overflow valve opens at. Any thing above 59 psi is good. I think the overflow valves are staked where you cant shim them. However , anything is possible I assume.

We always install new plugs and use the Loctite flange sealant (green in color). I cant remember the freeze plug size but its not metric. I think you can get one from Napa if no dealer is close by.

On the AI engines you just need a turbo and inectors and download to go all the way to 460 HP. Your local Mack dealer can submitt a HP change request via Macks email system and tell you what part numbers you need and the cost of the download if any. We do it everyday here. On the AI engines, we have had Mack say they could not go to 460 due to some EPA issue for that year but were able to go to 427. Also on the AI engine , 4.42 gears are the hightest i'd ever go with . 4.64's work best tall 22.5rubber. You could have your dealer do the software updates (Step 12B)on the 300 and see if it helps if it hasnt beed done yet.

The harness is all one piece! It pulls out of the head. If you bend any of the wires under the valve cover and the insulation comes off, replace the entire harness. It aint worth fixing. If the harness is not brittle and in good shape , I would replacejust the injector plug ends.

I vote for engine harness. Most all older MP's around here have been replaced once if not twice. Watch your engine brake plungers in the engine brake roller rocker arm and make sure there not uncrewing themselves. Harness.pdf

Older ETECH engines in the 1998-2001 range had 2 different possible fuel pressure regualtor part numbers. One was a 100 psi valve which we always installed if there was a issue . The other was a 75-80 psi valve. These pressure regualtors had the small barb nipple on them for the plastic fuel return line that came from the cylinder head. Starting in around 2002 the CCRS engine came out and Mack came out with the "Leak less" injectors and did away with the fuel return line from the injectors/head. CCRS engines and up including the ASET AC/AI have a fuel pressure regulator without the barb nipple on them and fuel pressure was 58 psi. This is a quick easy way to tell if you have a ETECH ( has the plastic fuel return line coming from head to regulator) or the CCRS engine ( no plastic line) . The pressure regulator screws into the side of the block above the air compressor.

Check the fuel pressure at this port. Port is on passenger side front of engine block at top of timing gear cover. It's 1/4" pipe thread so its easy to plumb up. All CCRS and ASET's should be 58 psi at idle and go up when you throttle it up. If fuel pressure goes down when you throttle it up or your way below 58 psi , you got fuel problems.

Did you go with rubber pads or upgrade to urethane? We always use the urethane pads for any truck with a 3rd/lift axle. We get the urethane pads direct from Mack.