Mackpro

On the AI motors , the engine brake wont work till 130 degrees oil temp, so if the ECM cant see the oil temp , it wont allow engine brake. Has the engine ECM software been changes of ECM been changed lately? Swap engine ECM with another truck, Also check engine ECM pins for antifreeze from bad coolant level sensor.

We have truck running here with 800,000 to 900,000 miles on then with the orignal DPF filters and have never been cleaned. We check the flow/back pressure and still good. Dont believe the hype of 4500 hours. Here at our dealership we maybe change 2 DEF pumps a month in the winter ( freeze and bust) and maybe 1 in the summer. Mostly NOX sensors we see go bad and a few DEF dosers too. The EGR diff sensor can go bad/ get clogged and cause DPF/SCR problems down the road. Im really shocked that we dont have more problems than we really do.

Is the Engine ECM and ACM ( SCR ECM) software been updated lately? There are alot of Mack Product Improvement Recalls going on now about software issuses. Has the truck been in colder than 20 degrees temps for days at a time? Is the lnsulating wrap still on the clamp on the flex pipe behind the DEF doser? We see this problem alot in cold weather. I think the software updates are probably the fix. Im heading to pick up a Fed-ex truck right now with same issue.

Loctite makes a "flange sealant" that we use in our shop. Never had one come back out.

other than the 460XT for the 98-2001 Etech's the only Aussie file i know of is for the 04-07 427HP ASET AI engine, It was hotter than the 460 but didnt meet the USA emissions. However back then you could actually call and talk to the programming guy at Mack and he could tweak things. Now we cant talk to any of the engineers at Mack.

Also a regen will "time out" after 45 min. Without VCADS/Techh tool you wont know if the soot level dropped or if the regen was good.

We have had 2 MP's here blowing oil out the blow by tube. One was a MP7 and the other a MP8. We did the compression test and cylinder balance test with the laptop and all looked good. Replaced the complete crankcase spinner assembly ( not just the spinner kit) and this solved the problem in both trucks. Also the oil spray nozzle can fall out of the bottom half of the assembly and cause other issuses. Its only a few dollars more to get the complete assembly.

Yes and yes. We just lean the radiator forwards about 5 inches and pull fan and fan clutch together. On the Horton website has the changover parts. Our horton rep comes by our dealership about every 6 months and updates info and parts . Your local dealership should have the info.

Make sure you order the Horton 2-speed fan clutch , unless you like changing the monster Borg Warner Cool Logic fan clutch every year and a half.

No engine parts change for any HP upgrade on the MP engines. The only thing that can keep you from going to some of the 505's (MP8 of course) is the torque ratings of the trans. We had some customers want to go the the 505M or 505C but their tranny was to small. They were able to go to the 505E because of lower torque rating of the engine. Only difference in the HP of the MP engines is a download.

Some of the steel lines that go into the oil filter stand have 2 thick orings on the ends of them. Make sure you put 2 back on as if you dont you have to remove the whole assembly again. Ask me how I know! LOL.

Seen lots of new UPS Pete's or KW's ( KW's I think) around here lately. I still see lots of Mack CXU's with the Cummins westport NG engine driving by my work every day.

Good!

We have replaced 100's of oil pressure sensors sometimes 2 or more times per truck. Hopefully this newest part# will be better.

The regular ETECH was made starting sometime in late 1998 till sometime in 2001/2002. There was some 01's with the CCRS engine and some 02's with the ETECH style. Alot of over lap during thoses years. The easiest way to tell the difference in ETECH vs CCRS is the ETECH has a small plastic fuel return line coming off the front ( some times rear on the early models) of the head going down to the fuel pressure regulator on the side of the block , above the air compressor. On a side note the ETECH engine uses different cam gear key ways depending on HP level. Going from 400 up to 427/460 requires a cam key way change or you will run hot in the summer. All CCRS and ASET have straight keyways regardless of HP. CCRS engines started somewhere in 2002 and looked just like the ETECH ( except no plastic fuel return on head). But used different injectors and EUP's and camshaft. CCRS 460 HP started the use of a waste gated turbo. The ASET AC engine in the CX/CH and CHN/CXN was really just a CCRS with a EGR system on it and VGT turbo. The ASET AI engine used in the CV, MR, LE ( and maybe last of the RD/RB) was a CCRS with a weird camshaft that opened the exhaust valves 2 times for every one time the intake opened. Reburning the exhaust like a EGR system. Of course there were alot of other differences but those were the major ones I can think of.

Depending on the exact ETECH style engine ( ETECH, CCRS or ASET) it could be as simple as a download to go from 427 to 460. However some models require different turbos and/or injectors. We made a large homemade chart on all the different HP's and model types and their differences. If not done correctly you wont gain anything.

Could be air bag dump or power divider solinoid shorting out telling ECM that either is on and limiting road speed.

Job security in my field!

I could do 3 tech cam jobs a week easy back in the day, The older I get the less I want to do them. Spend my days now messing with DEF/SCR issues and MP injectors. Now I do about 4-5 SCR derate/NOX sensor problems a week, alot less greasy!

If its showing a 6-4 code and the idle is at 900 rpm and the throttle pedal wont respond then it really has nothing to do with the throttle pedal. As some one said above the 1939 wires are messes up some where. If the trans was pulled, there is also 1939 wires on top of the trans in thoses years.

There is a service bulletin on that, hope this helps. bellhousing.pdf

To me the 300 shifts smoother than the 200 series but both still seem to have syncro problems that cost $3000-$4000 to fix. Most are due to driver error though.

I would go with the REMACK as well. There is just alot to go wrong in a MP engine. And there has been alot of upgrades in parts since 07. Go ahead and put a new engine wiring harness on there too while your down. I would want a REMACK with the timing gears in the rear already installed.

Here the actual ratio differences scan0001.pdf scan0003.pdf

Here is some info on the difference between the 300 series and 200 series. And the ratios are close but there some differences. I'll see if I can find the spec sheet and post them here. t300vs200.pdf