Mackpro

Here is the manual on the steering column. Best i remember there is a allen screw 6-8" down through the center of the shaft that can be tightened up. I hope your able to view the manual as my laptop is having a hard time downloading it.http://trucksteering.trw.com/Service%20Manuals view the steering column manual.

Dont feel to bad, here where I work, were running 2-3 weeks behind on the trucks with complex engine/DPF/SCR and elecrtical issuses. Job security for me.

Pull the cover off the fuse box down by the clutch pedal. Pull out a few of the relays one at a time and check them for being wet or green corrosion. Make sure u put them back in the correct position. We had a few trucks with leaking windshields and cabs that let water in on top of the fuse box. But then again it could be a bad starter.

Yes, they are having issuses with the flex pipe. However I cant seem to find any bulletin from Mack about this. I had a 2013 truck in the shop with high soot and Mack Tech support told me to check the flex pipe and see if the inner liner had slid back into the DPF. It had not so mine was Ok but this means they have been seeing this issue.

We bump alot of 445's to 505E's. They both have the same torque rating so you can run the smaller trans. We sold alot of road tractors with the 445 and small trans. Mack would turn on the 505E download ( for around $1000) but would not do the 505M or 505C due to the higher ft lb output. We even told them we changed the trans and they still said no.

A Mack dealer can order them for you. They have a Mack/Volvo part # on them just like any other part would. Here is the instructions and part#'s of tools for the copper (old style flat bottom cups) and the new stainless (conical/ wedge ) cups. The extraction tool is the same but the install tools are different copper cups.pdf stainless conical cup.pdf

As Macktech689 siad its a 460P, Back on 5/3/11 it was at a dealer and have the software and data files in the ECM's updated. Should pull pretty good when running correctly. Whats your turbo boost pressure under a load? We usually see around 33psi on one that runs as it should.

Right above that EUP harness there is the air compressor coolant steel pipes. A short piece of hose connects the two pieces of pipe. The Mack part # is 160AX570P3. Its a silicone hose and holds up the the heat very well. Changed one yesterday and the workorder was still on my clipboard with the part #.

Piece of trash stuck in the oil pump by-pass valve?

If its a MP8 the oil pressure sensor and crankcase pressure are next to each other. The plug ends on the harness are the same, so the oil pressure harness can get plugged into the crankcase pressure sensor. Also make sure someone didnt bend over/kink the hose coming out of the crankcase filter. We see people bend this hose over while changing the fuel filters. It will set a crankcase pressure code code.

Oh the joys of Tech Tool 2. Every time they fix one issue with it they end up creating 2 new problems.

On a few truck trucks, even after replacing both nox sensors and doing 2 back to back regens and watching the NOX levels drop, the codes still show active. We have been able to then clear the codes and do 3 short test drives and codes never comee back. Mack had a SPN-5394 FMI-17 / SPN-4094 FMI-18 check sheet but its not on the Mack dealerportal anymore, they say they put the steps in Guided Diagnostics

90% of the time we find that the NOX sensors are the problem, They have new upgraded ones, we replaced a ton of them.

As Turckster said above, it could be the filter housing/hand primer pump, Tee valve on top of 7th injector (if equipped) , injector cups or something else. Years ago when I was doing somethimes 3 sets of cups a week, we got in the routine of not checking anything and just pulling the injectors out and replacing the cups. Back then about 98% of the time we were right. However those 2% made us look bad. One time I replaced the injectors and cups only to later find that the plastic elbow fitting on the fuel tank was cracked and sucking air, lucky warranty was paying for anything related to the cup/injectors no questions asked. air in fuel.pdf

If the code is MID-128 PSID-47 FMI-1, that a failed regen with temp to low ( the way im reading the book). I wonder if one of the DPF temp sensors is bad and telling the ECM that the temp inside the DPF is too low. Then the ECM is telling the 7th injector to open/flow more fuel to the point its melting the filter. I had a truck that kept showing low regen temps and the regen would stop due to low temp reading. We put a new 7th injector and cat in and it still show low temp during regen. we finally replaced the after cat temp sensor and this solved the problem. To much fuel or too much oxygen there.

As Turckster said above, I'd check the shims/depth. Here is a mack bulletin on the 3-4 code. 3-4 code.pdf

There were some bad "out of the box " 7th injectors out there, The dealer should have caught it as there was a notice about checking the date code/serial number on one befor you install it. A sticking EGR valve will cause the DPF to fill up to fast and well as the EGR Diff sensor being bad and telling the EGR to stay open to much. We are also seeing DPF diff sensors giving false reading and telling the ECM that the DPF is full.

There was a recall on some dashes, see if yours falls under this build date. Sadly the recall is expired. cluster 2.pdf

Is it a GU model ( I assume it is)? Here is the only Mack bulletin on the dash cluster but it wont help much. Id say either the cluster is bad or the data lines from the VECU to the cluster are bad. Check fuse to the dash cluster first. cluster.pdf

Injector cups strike again. Thats what I would shoot for.

They never totally free wheel. They always spin somewhat.

The top feed kit seems to work great but best i remember parts and install were around $2000. There were so many updates that were available to upgrade the Jakes that it was confusing on what was what. We usually started with the high voulme oil pump first and see if it helped. top feed.pdf

If your looking for new, there are none at the Mack warehouses in the USA. There are 11 dealers in the US showing one in stock however none are near you. I can give you some leads on the dealers that have them though

Unless it's missing all the time, For an injector code with an FMI-8 we just replace the harness end. Be careful as the harness will be brittle and the insulation will break off. I have put alot of these on over years. Mack says replace all ends but if the harness is brittle and coming apart when you touch it, I usually just replace the bad one. But its up to the customer if he wants to risk damaging the harness to replace all ends. My friends MP-8 has almost 800000 miles on it with orignal harness and I have replaced 2 ends on 2 different ocassions. His truck runs fine but his harness is about toasted. In his case he would rather be down a couple hours 2 times versus having a new engine harness installed taking at least a day or more( depending on who installs it). The injector harness and the rest of the engine harness is all one piece. injector harness.pdf

Mack is having lots of flasher problems on the newer trucks, I have seen melted fuse panels where the flasher plugs in to. Mack did come out with a heavy duty remote flasher to solve the issuses but they are high$$$