Mackpro

Heres the SB

sb261012.pdf

Caused by running a dirty air filter or restriction. It sucks oil past the rings of the air compressor. We see it all the time.

Our customers new Titan 605 with 5000 miles on just got its first test. 157000 pounds with cruise set at 65mph, topped the largest long hill around here without down shifting and lost just 5 mph. Their new Cat truck now just sits collecting dust.

Boost pressure relief valve on top of intake maifold. a large brass valve/nipple that screws in to manifold and the turns to a rubber hose then into metal pipe that goes over the rear valve cover into the turbo exhaust pipe. They go bad alot. Has the boost pressure sensor been changed lately? There are 2 different part #s , if the wrong one is installed it will have low boost. Also turbo actuator sticking or to air to actuator, but should set a active code.

I guess I come here when I need a laugh. But I know it's the same thing over and over. Im not overly thrilled with Volvo but I tried to scrape my pennies together to buy Mack but came up short. However I have plenty of MP's to work on and they get easier to figure out as time goes by and it pays very well. I could whine and bitch over stuff thats out of my control but why? Seems like lots of sandy vaginas around here anymore.

Sometimes I wonder why I even click on these threads anymore.

Check your messages.

scan.pdf

scan0013.pdf

What is the truck model? Is it a air fan clutch or a electric viscus clutch? If air, first shoot air directly to fan clutch (or take air away ) to make sure it will unlock just to make sure its not a bad fan clutch. It should have around 12 volts going to solinoid from fuse panel and the other wire goes to the engine ECM and makes or breaks the ground inside to engage/disengage the fan. High A/C head pressure , high intake manifold temp and high coolant temp will make the fan turn on .

Mack part # 7536-173935 and there about $1200. And thats just the actuator not the whole turbo, crazy I know.

Check your message box.

Yes but the EPA hit squad would take us both out if I told you.

Is it the FXL style axle with the sealed hubs like Mack uses, I think Mack got this from Volvo. I have the whole service manual I can email you. The file is to big to post here. Just keep that top nut tight and you will never have any problems. We could take a new truck to any of our local alinment shops and they would want to rebuild the front end, it seems that way everywhere!

sb422008.pdf

This Mack service bulletin shows how to remove the lines and also the tool part # you can order from Mack. I think you can also use a fuel line disconnect tool as well.

PV729-PI0787.pdf

Mack has updated that part several times, the newest version looks alittle different. We replace one a week or more in all MP engines.

Does anyone else get tired of the whining and boo-hooing about Volvo/Mack? It might not be the greatest deal that could have been dealt but here were are. Mack is still selling trucks and our dealership sold more new Macks last year than in a long time. We dont all live in the 70's and watch "B.J. and the Bear". However if your gonna bitch this is a good place for it.

SID-32 is the Mack 4-5 code, check out these to Mack service bulletins.

wastegate 1.pdf

wastegate 2.pdf

Looks like a turbo for a ASET AC-310/330 , AC-330/350 and AC-350 engines. Here is the turbo interchange bulletin on ETECH engines up through the ASET engine family.

turbo interchange.pdf

I'm just glad that Macks are still being made and I have a job working on them. Otherwise I wouldn't get to be putting these 6 new injectors in this MP-8 this morning!

Thanks for the imformation & thanks for guys... like you... for helping owner operators like me trying to get up the hills faster. You are right on the money about the upgrade without bigger injectors installed. Had the truck to mack today,They checked the upgrade, said everything was ok just need injectors. I'll install them in a few days. I did try for thr 460 upgrade but mack said my tranny was not strong enough. check out the attachment.

Thanks Butch

They tell us stuff like that also, we hear you gotta change the trans or add an trans oil coller or get a bigger clutch or rear axles. They are just covering their ass if something goes wrong. And it mostly for warranty reasons so if you do blow a rear axle that was rated to low for the HP and try to get it warrantied. We let the customer know what Mack said and let the customer decied if its worth the risk. 99% say go with it. Its not like these engines are every gonna put out 2250 Ft LBS of power and tear something up. We always tell Mack, yea we changed the rear axle or clutch or whatever ( as long as the customer knows) and they crank the HP up.

The download and turbo upgrade are useless with out changing to the bigger injectors, gotta change the injectors , their probably more important that the turbo. The turbo number we use is

631GC5173MX on the 427 and 460 but the number you gave does cross over and will work. The new injector # should be 736GB415M2X. The 427 and 460 HP all use the exact part numbers on everything ( except the 2002-2003 CCRS engines) , the only difference is the download. We always shoot for the 460 cause its the same money.

You should be getting around 30 psi of turbo boost now. It shows your engine ECM has been set to 427.HP. However doesn't look lke no one has updated the vehicle ECM in a long time. My screen shows it could be bumped to the "Step 12B" program. I figured while the truck was there they would have done that. It would help alot on throttle responce but would not keep you from getting the correct boost pressure. Also do you have the part numbers of the turbo and injectors they installed when they went from 400HP to 427HP?

Is the E-Tech Engine and the E-7 Engine the same? The tag that they put on my motor says E-7.
Butch

The name E-7 was used for many years and covered the E-7 manual pump engine all the was up to the ASET engines.

We tried boosting a RD from 350 to 460 with out changing the cam key way but it overheated in the summer time. We did a the same on a CH that had a new radiator and a air fan and it barely survived a summer, we later changed out the cam keys.

when I get to work Ill look at my HP upgrade chart and see what turbo, injector and if cam key way does need changing. Usually on the 427-460 ETECH (non-CCRS engine 2002+) you have to install a off set cam key-way to prevent over heating. And with your VIN I can see what datafiles have been downloaded to your truck, but the mack dealer website is down tonight for some reason.

Yes, something went wrong. Did they pull the camshaft out and put the off-set key way on the cam gear?