Mackpro

Yes, the oil temp/oil level sensor in the oil pan is known to push oil up the engine harness into the engine ECM, we actually had one today. The oil in the ECM /harness causes all kinds of weird codes. We usually wash out the ECM, replace the sensor and enine wiring harness and test drive to see if the ECM is OK, About 90% of the time the ECM is OK.

We bought 3 or 4 CH612's about the same year as yours, all had the EM7 300 ETECH engine, Some of the customers/buyers wanted the HP bumped up. As it turned out these enines had the offset camshaft key ways "advanced" . To go any higher with the HP we would have to pull cam and either put a straight key way in for 350 or 400 HP or flip the key way around "retarded" and go for the 427 or 460 HP. Plus turbo and or injectors would have to be replaced depending on desired HP. Customer ended up keepin them the way they were. A Mack dealer can request a HP conversion to see what parts to change and download cost. Its free to ask.

We always pull the hub along with the balancer off at the same time then use a press if needed to get them apart. The downside of doing this is you need a new front seal. Just dont try to pry the balancer off by using a prybar. I have cracked the timing cover trying to do that before.

Wonder if they resurfaced your flywheel or or put a used resurfaced one in ? We keep a used resurfaced flywheel and sometimes use it if customer is in a hurry and doesn't have time for us to get it to the machine shop. The problem we run into is the E-7 (Pre ETECH) and the ETECH/ASET flywheel look almost the same and will bolt up fine and seem to work except the timing sensors on these two engines are in different locations and if swapped the timing sensor wont read. If your engine is a E-7 Pre E-TECH, the timing sensor screws into the flywheel housing under the starter. If screwed in to far or backed out to far you will get a miss above around 1700 rpm. I think the book says screw in all the way the back out 1 full turn. On some engines this is to far and you have to trial and error adjust it. Also this sensor must only be turned by hand, if wrench or plier marks are on the sensor body its junk. Might need to run a thread tap through it to clean it. We have found out all this stuff the hard way.

As BTS-4120 said just get a Mack dealer to do a HP conversion download. Going from a 460E to a 460P it's just a download, no hard parts. The download varies in price from Mack as I have seen them free all the way up to $1500 . In your case I would think 500 max on the download and 1-2 hr labor for the install. The dealer has to submitt the request to Mack then it might take a day or two to get the download turned on in the mack mainframe.

The easiest thing to check is the fuel pressure relief valve on the front of the head ( had one with the end broke out last week). Also , if there is a Tee on top of the 7th injector this is a check valve that can go bad and air can be forced back into the fuel system. Also check where the fuel supply pump bolts to the power steering pump and make sure it not dripping fuelor seeping from where they mate together. Check the plastic fuel lines and plastic fittings at the fuel tanks and make sure their not cracked. We have had a few filter stands go bad and start sucking air but in reality it probably the injector cups bad, the symtoms vary greatly when it comes to bad injector cups. Done 2 sets in the last 3 weeks and got another GU sitting in my bay to start on tommorrow. There is a test we do to check for air in the return fuel. If there is alot of air bubbles then it's the cups. I would call a dealer and give him the VIN , miles and engine hrs and see if its still under warranty. If still under warranty get the conical (stainless)cups and injectors installed (If there not on backorder) . If not under warranty you can just replaced the copper cup that went bad to get by cheaply.

How in the world did we survive back in the day when we were pulling the same weight and the biggest HP we had was a 237 or a 350. Now we wonder if 505 HP can do the job. So far with the 2012 MP-8's we have had no issuses here with the DPF/SCR. We did have 2 trucks that broke the #6 injector in half but thats it. My friends 505 has gone 15,000 miles and never regened and is getting in the high 7's (MPG) and he runs it really hard. He went and picked up a new hopper bottom trailer and brought it back (around 300 miles) at 70-75 mph and got 9.1 mpg. When geared right they can do whatever you want.

Its probably the oilfilter stand to block gasket ( which is very common) but I have seen a pipe plug on the back of the filter stand leak as well, but regardless the filter stand/oil cooler has to come off to do either. The new oil filter stand gasket should have a steel core where some of the orignal gaskets were all paper/gasket materal.

We had a nice new MRU-613E (E=export) here the other day. Nice big MP-8 400HP with no DPF or SCR. Wish they were all like that to work on ! It was headed south to take a boat ride to Panama.

That oil temp is normal and actually could go alot higher and still be OK. We get this complaint alot, Mack made a service Bulletin about it. I am trying to attach it but its in a weird format. Document.rtf oil temp.txt

From what I have looked up the M-drive is not rated for the MP-10 torque output. We had a customer wanting a MP-10 605 HP with M-drive and we could not get it. Customer wanted big HP and an automatic, he bought a Kenworth with a Cummins and unknow automatic trans.

I would say yes it would be under powered. But our tri-axle dump truck guys around here want enough power to run up and down hills 85 MPH loaded to 80 thousand lbs then crawl through 3 foot of mud then run wide open back to the quarry for another load. It would be good for a guy pull his backhoe around and do small site work though. HP can be bumped up through a Mack dealer with turbo, injector and download depending on the actual engine model and how high of HP you want to go.

These guys have to turbo you need, I talked to them awhile back, good guys with lot of free info! http://www.rochesterfuel.com/products/mack-c-149.html

I would love to work on your truck as I have had 2 weeks of MP's falling apart, bolts stripping out , bolts breaking off in turbos and other failures due to poor parts quality. Someone give me a grey motor to work on quick!

No BL's last night, I was up at 6 on my way to work, Got your text this morning. I was at my other job, I work 7 days a week in the winter so I can have more play time in the summer!. I would say just replace the turbo actuator/VGT when you get that many codes on it. Unless you have a wiring/harness issue or oil/coolant in the harness/ engine ECM or an air pressure issue to the . VGT or to the VGT controller box. With the local guys, I usually clear the codes and recalibrate the turbo and let them run a day and see what happens, but usually we end up replacin the actuator. Thoses things are $$$$$ about $1100 I think. And some times their like your starter "dont want to come off".

It was on last night, did anyone see it besides me?

I would unplug the AC compressor and see what happens, this time of year people use their defroster alot and with the defroster on the A/C compressor runs. If there is a A/C high pressure issue the fan clutch could be coming on due to this. Last winter I had a CV with a stuck expansion valve, Everytime he turned the defroster on the head/high pressure would build up and turn the fan on. Also if the water pump was changed have the dealer double check that they put the correct one on. There is one for the AI engine and one for the AC engine, they both look the same and will bolt on but the pully slightly different in diameter. On the thermostats, I would change them and the new improved thermostat kit will have better o-rings and one thermostat opens at 180 and the other opens at 185 to help prevent coolant surge.

It's all about the weight and money. The Mack rears cant come close to the weight savings. And he will have done traded in the truck by the time durability comes into play.

Make sure its not the air compressor to engine block gasket leaking, I have seen those leak and make it look like the oil pan gasket was leakin. And like Higgy said, silicon where the front timing cover and rear flywheel housing meet the block.

Follow the lower radiator pipe from the radiator to the engine, on the engine you will see a rubber "Y" hose, remove the "Y" hose and in it there should be a metal screen where the "Y" pipe meets the engine oil cooler. I would remove it , clean it, replace it or just throw it away. Most all ASET engines had this , the AC engine in the CX/CH and the AI engine in the CV/LE/MR. Here is a Mack service bulletin that is about the AC EGR engine but this is the same screen as on your truck. sb214056.pdf

Customer reports that he loves the truck, The 505 has more power than his 485HP and at first got 1/2 of a mile per gallon better (6.5 MPG) than his old truck on every run and after a few weeks of running he is getting 3/4 of a mile per gallon ( 6.72 MPG) better the more it gets broken in. He does short, heavy loads in stop and go traffic.

Our sister store sold 15 to a customer and after a month the customer ordered 15 more. I cant remember if it was a 415 or 445 MP-8 but all did have the M-drive trans and small sleeper. I can get the specs if you want. Customer reported 7+ MPG and some in the 8 MPG range.

With key off, unplug all 3 engine ECM connectors and check for oil of antifreeze in the harness connection. especially the top right one. This code is a low voltage code for the Behr electric engine fan. Check the engine fan connection plug and wires. Does the fan ever disengage?

What model? cx/ch, rd or le/mr

You could remove the DPF, disassemble it and knock out both filter and cat elements, reassemble it, put it back on the truck to make it look like it was all orignal. Cap off the fuel line to the 7th injector. Then you would have to get a laptop with the Mack VCADS software and interface (about $1500 + the laptop) . Then zero out the Soot ratio and you could probably get a day out of it before it would want to regen. Then at the end of the day or next morning, zero out the soot ratio again and good for another day.