Mackpro

The engine speed sensor is on in LH side of the engine flywheel bellhousing, goes in from the side. The engine position sensor is on the front timing cover. These 2 sensors get misidentified alot. Both are the same part number and will interchange with each other. The egine position sensor has to be agjusted with shims while the enine speed sensor does not.

When we have actuator codes, we pull the actuator and have a guage to check the stroke of the turbo vanes. About half the the time the turbo vanes wont go the full stroke ( open to close) and this will cause a actuator code, the only fix is a complete turbo/actuator package. I had one a few weeks ago and the turbo stroke showed good and the actuator showed bad. So I put a actuator on and it made it about 50 miles and the turbo blew apart. Its a crap-shoot with these things.

Were off till Tuesday. One of our other stores might have the seat (we still havent got one) and can get it in. We have sold and installed the grill/bumper guards on our localgas haulers CX/CXNs so I know we can get them. I wish our parts dept work on commission as they would be more motivated to get some parts in to sell. I'll see what I can find out.

The engine seems to be more responsive and run better when the timing is advanced, however going over the 1.5 degree can cause overheating in the summer time. Over time gear wear and pump wear cause the pump timing to lower. I have seen 10+ year old engines thet were never touched ( as far as the pump goes) that had low pump timing as much as 2 degrees. And I'm sure the EPA /emissions had something to do with setting the pump timing where they did.

I think there is a fuse for the dash cluster and also just wiggle the wires on the back of the cluster, worth a shot. However we put alot of clusters in that era CX's and the CH's that used that style dash.

I would lean towards timing also . I would get the pump timing checked and bump it up no more that 1.5 degrees over what it says on the valve cover. The rings in the Econovance could be shot as well. The intake temp sensor could be going haywire and giving false signal to ECM causing the wrong timing. Rare but I have had 2 bad VMAC2 ECMs that caused no timing advancement. On that last invoice what oil line was replaced? The oil supply line to the Econovance? Oil supplied through that line to the Econovance control valve/solinoid is what make the timing advance/retard.

Bigen, big boobie pix texted to you phone, so whats the results?

With the new SCR MP8 the EGR is used less that ever before. If we ever get the EGR differential pressure sensor port "plugging" issue firgured out the EGR system will be pretty much trouble free. I think the new ECM downloads are part of the fix. Mack is removing alot of parts on the newest SCR MP8's . The 7th injector has been majorly simplified, no more water cooled 7th injector, just a tiny little injector with a small single fuel line, not even a electrical wire going to it. And now the DRV valve has been removed, and kits are available to remove it on the older SCR engine. The bugs are getting worked out. Alot fewer warranty claims on the SCR engines than when the first DPF engines came out.

Whats the last 6 of the VIN and also what trie size are you running? I was going through my notes and found this " Here's a little tip for 427 CCRS engines with low power. We bought a fleet of 2002 CH's with this engine and all were low on boost pressure and power. We changed turbo and injectors, adjusted valves and did everything we could think of and still low turbo boost/ power. I called my buddy at our other Mack location and he said to replaced the injectors with 460P (736GB420M3X) ones and call Mack and have them turn on engine datafile 1MS5135. We did this and WOW what a difference, went from 22psi boost to 30 psi and this was after we put the old turbo back on. " Ok, with that being said your engine is not a 427 or CCRS version of the ETECH if it really is a 2000 model but with your VIN I can see how yours came from the factory and see what could be cheaply done to help.

Was out back in the scrapyard cutting some wiring connectors off of a junk Volvo. The Volvo was pushed back into the woods and when I made my way through the bush I took this pic.

When you turn the key on, does the red X and yellow lighting bolt come on for 2 seconds the go out? And also does it have a Auto-shift or Ultra-shift (automatic) transmission? I have seen the EUP (unit pump)harness short out against the block and cause this problem

Finally got done with it today. Will post pics later, it is a 505C engine and the trans is a T310 Mack 10 speed. Turned out good.

I guess if the truck was going to Cali I would want the stickers on there but this is a local truck so the stickers are comin off. We will just swap out the lights as our truck sales dept is always needing the roof lights when removing condo sleepers or areo roof fairings.

I gotta take off the "Clean Idle" sticker tommorrow and if the tires and wheels show up then put the stainless full fenders on the back. Truck was ordered with bullet lights on top but came with standard lights so I gotta change them out as well.

A few more pics.

Yes exactly what 85superdog said. Both ECMs need to be updated (step 12B program). Fuel pressure tested and boost pressure tested under a load to make sure they are in specs. Also what trans, gears and tire size? Any tires bigger that 22.5 low pros and you better have 4.42 or 4.64 rear gears. When you have the AI engine, the rest of the truck has to be set up just right or you will have low power complaints.

Got most of the chrome put on today, Going to do a tire/wheel swap, getting 22.5 low pros with super singles on the back. On the specs, I will have to get the exact model numbers but I know its a 505HP but I dont know what version ( C, E or M). The trans is a Mack 10 speed ( again dont know model). Rears are Rockwells with aluminum carriers and ultra light air ride. The ratio is around 3.53. I will find out more tommorrow and hopefully have some more pics.

You haven't run off the road playing with that new stereo remote yet have you?

You ever get to the mountains to try out that new engine datafile/program?

My friends 2012 CHU 505HP finally arrived today, about 4 months late but finally got here today. Got about 4 grand in stainless and chrome to install. Wish I had a better pic that this cell phone pic.

Being this is a pre Etech engineI would replace the ingniton solinoid in the fuse box. Its the large solinoid that has the big red wires going to it. Lots of current goes through this solinoid so it gets hot (which is normal) and they seem to go bad quite often. Use a Mack solinoid and not a Napa Ford starter solinoid as thoses dont last but a week at best.

4.64 gears or low profile 24.5 tires might help get the RPM/torque curve back on track but I have seen many CV's with this spec and be OK. I would take it to the dealer and have them install the latest Datafiles and software in both ECM's ( step 12B software) and calibrate the throttle pedal, this in some cases can make a big difference. These engine usually do a good job as they have the same torque output rateing as the AI427. EPA made Mack drop the AMI370 only after a couple of years due to being way to dirty. A manual boost pressure guage plumbed into the intake manifold is the best way to tell if the engine is getting full boost ( around 30 psi but I dont have my book close by)

If your truck is a 1999, you can bump it to 400 HP with just a download. But on paper your 355/380 puts out 1560 ft pounds of torque. If you bumped to 400 HP your torque would drop to 1460. You might want to stay where your at. Your engine now had the same tourque output as a 427. But to get bumped to a 427 or 460 HP it will involve turbo, injectors and remove camshaft and install an offset keyway in the cam gear to prevent overheating.

We have sold alot of 2011-12's and no problems with the SCR/DPF or engine(except of loose battery/starter cables on every one?) . MPG is great as well as power. Mack and Volvo are beating everybody on MPG when spec'ed correctly and road speed is kept to a reasonable level. The MP engines are much more foregiving when the tire size/rear gear ratio and transmission dont quite match up. Any good salesman can tell you what gears you need to match your tire size and desired cruising speed. When our salesman is ordering a new truck, if he enters a gear ratio or tire size that dont quite go together, it throws up all kinds of red flags and warns the salesman. I've seen him do it!

Please just say NO. Mack had so many complaints they came out with a kit to change it back to the orignal cable style.