Mackpro

Iwill advise the county to scrap their water truck. When the poor peoples houses burn from lake of water we can just blame it on Bush

So many poor county governments down here. One local town here just retired their gas burning Mack fire truck about 6 years ago, I did the last tuneup on it before it was gone. One local county road dept was so happy to get a new to them 1999 CH converted dump truck. Before that their newest Mack dump had a 2 valve head engine in it. This is a county of 5123 people where 24% on them live below the poverty line and 30% are over 65 and on SS. Poor is poor and these small counties are happy to get what they can. However the state road departments in the same counties have new 2011 Mack GU's.

Our local fire dept got a USAF jet fuel tanker and converted it into a water tanker. Its a DM4929 last of vin is 002612 and has a 3208 cat with the muffler mounted under the front bumper. Will try to post some pics when we get done with repairs.

I was setting on the back of the boat, deep in a 18 pack of Bud-lite when you texted me thoses pics of the oil trail behind your truck as far as the eye could see. My first thought was what blew apart and where were you at. Glad your engine was not ruined! I cant wait to get to work on your truck as 4 weeks solid of failing MP engines and this heat ( 104 in the shop the other day) has drove me to drink!

I assume its not one of the coolant hoses. If it is the outlet hose of the EGR cooler (toward the front of engine) I would have to think its an overboost turbo problem. But I have pressure tested the whole intake system (including the EGR cooler and piping) as high as 45 psi and never blew one of those hoses. The hose should be a special stepped hose (bigger on the EGR cooler end and smaller on the Mass flow tube end ("S" shaped pipe)). A new hose with new clamps to start with and a test drive to see what the turbo Boost pressure is hitting. Also check if all 4 bolts/nuts are there to secure the EGR cooler to the block. Had one today with only 3 bolts holding it on and the vibration cracked the EGR cooler causing an external coolant leak.

Just waiting on u Bigen! LOL

From what I have seen I would use factory parts for anything on the engine. We had our local turbo/injector shop (which are great guys) start rebuilding our turbos, which was cheaper than the Mack reman but when they went down in California the warranty didn't mean sh*t to the Mack dealership out there. We use only Mack parts on the engines just for warranty cause any Mack dealership should honor as long as you have the reciept. But I'm sure their are some good aftermarket parts out there.

I do have a "hot " program for a 427 AI enine that I put in my buddies CV, runs awesome, smokes the 460's but only in spring and fall. In the heat of summer (90+ degree days) the fan stays engaged to much on the slightest hills. He's bringing it back this week to put the old program back in it.

The best average MPG that we have seen with the AI engine in the CV/CT's is 5.2 and the guys were happy to see that.

Cat, cummins and other engines usually have alot more cubic inches/liters (and weight) than Mack's Etech engines so it could be easier for them to build HP at a higher rpm's. As far as turning up the RPM's or adjusting the power curve, it's impossible from what I'v seen. Unless you know a program writer that cam make a complete new engine data file. We use the older Mack service software on the ETECHs and ASETs. We also have VCADS but have found the older Mack service software is much faster and easier to use. Not much difference in what parameters can be changed using VCADS or the Mack service software on the ETECH's. Alot of fleets turn the rpms down to 1900 because anything above that your just wasting fuel.

This service bulletin shows the location for the Y hose and screen. This bulletin is for the AC engine but the AI has the same Y hose and screen. sb214056.pdf

We have tried to get the rpm up over 1950 while the truck is moving but was never able to. On most ETECH engines the HP curve starts to drop very fast after 1850 rpm. We tried changing tire size and transmission top gear ratio to try to fool the ECM into thinking we were in a lower gear. The ETECH engine will usually go to 2100 in every gear but the last one where 1900-1950 rpm is the max. The only ETECH I have seen that would almost hit 2000 in the last gear was a 1999 CL with a 460XT program in it. If you do get it to that rpm i dont think there will be any HP or torque there to do anything with.

Go to donaldson's website with your measurments and see what matches up and look at the DB reduction (sound level) to get the quietest they got. We (mack dealership) order single mufflers from them all the time. We have ordered some high flow prefromance mufflers from them for CX/CH trucks with great results. https://dynamic.donaldson.com/webc/WebStore/hierarchy/hierarchy.html?section=10022

We have never had to change the DPF filters on any of our Macks except 1 time when a turbo went out and filled it full of oil. Some of our trucks have 600,000 miles on them. On our SCR trucks ( about 6 total) no one has ever had to do a parked regen, it seems to do the regen going down the road and thats not to often.

My thought is that the trucks around here run better in the 50-75 degree Spring and Fall. I dont expect a big drop in fuel temp but if I could knock 15-20 degrees off of a 100+ degree fuel temp it shouldn't hurt. I have already seen what leaving the coolant turned on to the fuel heater will do to MPG in the summer time and it is not good.

Seems UPS is still holdin on to alot of older trucks. We just started on a complete inframe overhaul on a UPS 2001 CX612 with god knows how many miles on it.

I wish I had wrote down all the specs and tips on MPG and power I heard when we had a Mack engineer at our shop. I will talk to our Boss and sales guys and see what they say. Best I remember they talked like running a rear gear ration real high and getting the RPM down as low as 1200 or just high enough to cruise down the road. I really need to ask them and write it all down again.

Passenger side of engine, right below #2 EUP where the fuel line goes into the side of the block. I'll see if I can add a pic tommorrow.

Mack sent me a new engine data file for your truck, next time your in we'll install it. they say no side affects at lower altitude.

I'll send in a E-service to mack about it. I think there is a download but I also hear it hurts you down around normal altitudes. I'll see what they say.

His truck sets all winter but I can always unscrew the hoses and put a union in and bypass the coolers if he needs it. Just wondering if it would even worth it to install it. Already got a 460 turbo, high flow muffler and a "Hot" enine ECM file installed , hits 35 psi boost but just need a little but more.

The problem mainly is the return fuel coming out of the block/fuel galley back to the tanks, I think that is where most of the heat comes from. Thought I might put a left over trans oil cooler in the return fuel line and another one on the suction side. My buddies CV with a AI-427 will try anything cheap for more power.

Thinking about the ideal of a fuel cooler. I noticed today that the fuel temp in the tanks were 100 degrees. Wonder if running through a cooler to get the fuel temps down would help preformance? I know the drag racers do it with gas engines. Any thoughts out there?