Mackpro

Mack Trucks INC doesn't charge the dealerships for any software or datafile downloads for any grey motor (non-MP engine) except in some cases for a horsepower upgrade. We just charge actual time to do the download. For a reflash and datafile download for both ECU's it takes less than 2hr. The Step 12B is usually reflashing and redownloading both ECU's, but not always, sometimes it's just the Vehical ECM which allows the throttle pedal to be calibrated for better throttle responce. The new software and datafile on the engine ECU is unknown to me but it usually seems to help with the power/HP. Still keep an eye on the belts and tensioner as they can still fail when you least expect it. Next time you drain the coolant you need to replace the oil cooler inlet screen in the lower radiator hose as it connects to the oil cooler. Give me the last 6 of your vin and I can post a pic of your oil cooler set up as sometimes the lower hose has a trans oil cooler in it.

Hope they get it fixed for ya. Yea the ASET engine is a whole different ballgame. I pulled up the warranty file on this truck and on 5/15/06 it did have a 631GC5176CM5 turbo installed, it was orignally had the 5171 series turbo and when you change the turbo to the 5176 series you must update the software. The warranty claim never metioned that they did. I think Rhasler is on to the problem here.

They now have most of the bugs worked out, the main problem was the copper injector cups and now with the new stainless steel injector cups and redesigned injectors the problem is hopefully fixed for good! I am putting the new style cups in a 2010 GU with a MP8 485HP with 16,000 miles on it. Most cups will last longer but this one didnt! I say go for it!

Make sure the coolant is shut off to the fuel heater, if it has one. Alot of the Davco fuel filters have built in fuel heaters in them and I had Bigen's truck in the other day and it had hot coolant running through all the time with no shutoff. Just something to look at. Whats the last 6 of your vin#? I can pull up the parts and software levels in the ECM,s.

I would put it on a Dyno before I bought another part! We have had to do this before to make sure we really had low power. Our sales dept. will sell a guy a used "Ryder" spec truck with a 355/380 and the guy is used to a large CID Cummins 500HP and complaine it has low power when it actually doesn't. With 33-35 psi of boost it should be doing great. I didnt think they put waste-gate turbos on CCRS engines except for the 460 HP. Not to be confused with the ASET engine with the VGT turbos.

Had one today do the same thing, it was a 2002 CX613. I thought he was crazy as I have never seen a seat belt warning buzzer go off either. But we followed the service bulletin and found the date code to be one of the older ones so I replaced the cluster (around $370 + labor) and this fixed the problem.

Your engine is a CCRS style ETECH engine. It is very close to the 427HP CCRS engine ( has same tourque output rating). I posted this awhile back after we bought a fleet of CH's for resale with the 427 CCRS engine, almost every truck had a low power complaint. = Here's a little tip for 427 CCRS engines with low power. We bought a fleet of 2002 CH's with this engine and all were low on boost pressure and power. We changed turbo and injectors, adjusted valves and did everything we could think of and still low turbo boost/ power. I called my buddy at our other Mack location and he said to replaced the injectors with 460P HP (736GB420M3X) ones and call Mack and have them turn on engine datafile 1MS5135. We did this and WOW what a difference, went from 22psi boost to 30 psi and this was after we put the old turbo back on. Just something I thought I would pass on to you guys.

I thought they were going to start putting the MP engines in the Prevost's. Havent heard anymore about it though.

What type of fan clutch does it have? A air operated Horton or a electric viscus Bear. The Horton has of course a air line going to it and the Bear just has an electrical plug. With the key off you should not be able to turn the fan blade/Horton without slipping the belt. The Hortons do wear out often. The Bear has issues as well but when they go out they usually lock up solid. We have had issues with overheating with the Bear that we have not been able to figure out. At some higher RPM's the Bear will unlock to prevent fanclutch damage regardless of engine temp. Never seen a AI engine in a CV that didnt have a oil cooler inlet screen. It goes in the "Y" pipe at the oil cooler. Some CV's have trans oil coolers in the lower radiator pipe. Sometimes you have to remove it to get the "Y" pipe off to get to the screen. Also look between the Aftercooler and radiator to make sure it's not plugged restricting air flow.

I have an EGR valve plunger/diverter break but the electronic actuator was still good. It can easly be removed from the valve and plugged in to the engine harness. The EECU would still think it's there . All it does is open/close to regulate the flow of oil to move the EGR valve plunger/diverter back and forth to let exhaust to the egr cooler. I will try it tommorow.

Yes Finally some one figured it out. I got tired of running to Radio Shack to try different resistors. The weight savings on the engine is close to 70 pounds if all EGR componets and cooling lines are removed!

I found that the metal tag underneath the sticker has more info on it. Here is one from a 2007 MP7 04emission, it does have the model info on it.

Glad it's running great! Dont know where all the rust/chunks in the bottom of the Davco fuel filter housing came from? You got aluminum fuel tanks so they didnt "rust". Got your cab shocks and air drier cartrage in and got your name on them.

The only casted marking on the intake housing was 'Mack" and a "07". Here is the tag

I have one setting on my tool box and checked it out and found no "series" number. In the box with the new updated turbo for the recalls there is a piece of paper with some of the "series" info, I have thrown thoes papers away. I will see if I have another turbo to rob the papers out of!

I will see what I can find!

I have a couple of blown up one's laying around, I look for any model/series markings on them. Mack/Volvo doesn't tell us any specs on anything anymore other than part #'s. We used to have engineers we could call for info, those days are gone. We have been replacing several MP8 turbos as part of a recall. We have to reuse the old actuator though. We had one of the new recall turbo's blow oil out the back/exhaust and ruin the DPF filters. Total bill was $8,000+ , thank God for warranty.

Yep , thats them. We had a small Cummins engine in the other day and it had the same turbo on it as the MP's. Of course our MP turbo's from Mack in a Cummins box! The first MP-7 (non-DPF) turbo's had a problem with the impeller nut spinning off but that has now been fixed. The turbo center section is water and oil cooled and the VGT/actuator is also water cooler. The MP7 turbo to exhaust manifold gasket had a normal looking turbo gasket but the MP8 turbo gasket had a very small hole/ block off plate in it (?????). Never seen a MP10.

From 1100-1500 rpm 30psi, 1700 rpm 35psi and 2100 rpm 40psi. This is measured with a special oil pressure test kit and at hot oil temp. Book doesnt show where the guage hooks to, Just says to follow the instructions in the kit. We have found if the Engine brake works good for the first 10 or so miles and then quits when the oil temp gets up. We first put in the new high voulume oil pump and if that dont work we install the external oil supply line kit. Of course make sure it has the new style oil check valves on top of the rocker arm brackets and that the solinoids are not pouring oil out the bottom with the engine running and valve covers off.

The electric window switch is in my hand, I'll lock in in my tool box so I know it wont get sold!

I'll get a switch if we aint got one already. I wouldn't change the screen but once ayear due to the possiblity of damageing the "Y" hose below the screen. Your cooling system/block/piping looked great and wasn't rusty/crusty like some I have seen. Our local Best One Tire does all our tire balanceing. We have a local small guy who balances with the tires on the truck, so the hubs and brake drums also get balanced and he solves alot of our vibration problems. Bad thing is there's a 2 week to a month wait to get to him.

We have a really big nice wall chart that shows all the different ring gear/pinion and bullgear combos but cant really post it here as it is huge. On the 92/93 series there are a 51,52,54 and 55 tooth bull gear (big gear in the bottom) and the various ring gear/ pinion combos that go from 3.65 to 9.59 (according to Mack Carrier Service Chart booklet 13-501). I think they did discontinued some ratios years ago but I cant remember. We usually try to just change the ring gear/ pinion (leaving the bull gear alone)to go up or down. Alot of the time just changing the ring gear/pinion is a big jump up or down so to go just 1 step up or down you have to change all the gears. I guess making the big jump up or down then changing your tire size you could get by with it. My little booklet has 66 pages of gear charts covering all 92/93 series to much to post.

I dont blame ya for saving your brakes!