Mackpro

A regular ETECH has a plastic fuel return hose coming off the front or back (mostly front) of the head going to the fuel pressure regulator on the passenger side of the block above the air compressor. The CCRS has no plastic line. The ASET AC and AI engines also dont have the line.

Yours was built on 1/16/2001 and is a regular ETECH engine , same as engine above, requring turbo, injectors and off set cam keyway. My hope was yours being built in 2001 was a CCRS style engine that requires no cam keyway change regardless of HP level. If it was a CCRS ETECH it would be cheaper to bump up due to no keyway change. As with all HP upgrades on ETECHs make sure you have the big vibration damper on, if not get one. You can tell if you got the big one by it almost touches the front motor mount horseshoe. On the small damper you can fit your fingers between the damper and mount.

Good to hear they could get it to act up. Keep us posted on how it turns out.

I was first thinking maybe low fuel pressure but probably not. I would go ahead and get the lastest software and data files for both ECM's (step 12B) and make sure your turbo has a *****5176***** in the part#. If it has a ****5171**** series turbo(2004 year model mostly) dont change the software. When we changed turbos from a 5171 to a 5176 the dealer has to change the engine software and data files. Most of the 5171 turbo are all gone/blew up. We have run across some customers who changed their own turbo to the new style and didn't get the software changed or the VGT calibrated and this caused all kinds of weird problems. With that said I would get the software/datafiles up to date, have the fuel pressure checked (80 psi)(if the supply pump has never been changed it might need it), have them check the boost pressure relief valve on top of the intake manifold (spring wears through the end of the housing), have them check for fault codes for the VGT/turbo and calibrate the VGT (must have 150 degree water temp) lastly have them unplug the connectors for the engine ECM and check for antifreeze in the harness plug. Thats all I can think of for now.

Oil is better than finding antifreeze in harness/ECM connection. We usually find antifreeze at the engine ECU and it can eat the terminal/pins out. Clean out the connections with electronic contact cleaner and recheck and clean every week for a month till it no longer showes up at the connection. Glad you found it.

I'll try to post a pic of the ECM wiring in the morning, We have a new PC hooked to our scanner, hope I can get it to work.

The Mack bulldog oil is made by Exxon Mobil and is good oil. Rotella is good oil also but I have seen changing over to Rotella after using another brand can cause some weird problems.

Wonder if it's factory? Being metal instead of plastic is good!

I only live just a couple miles from Show-Me's but never been there yet. A couple of our Techs went there today for lunch and said it "looked" nice.

Just noticed your grill doesn't say MACK on it? I see that grill on UPS trucks and other fleet trucks. Was it on there when you got it?

Hell, I'm heading to Motel 6 tommorow for lunch to see that!

I really dont like the looks of any hood/fender mirrors BUT I wouldn't drive a truck with a trailer without them. They are a must have for the long trailers you guy's pull. I do see them on dump trucks but I think you could get by without them. Maybe one day they will perfect a camera system with heads up display. We have a new GU813 just delivered (Rebublic Waste) with a roll off body that has cameras looking down both sides of the truck but you still have to look at that small display screen to see anything.

A MH with a E-9 500HP pulled in the bay next to Bigen's truck, If I could have swapped the engines between the two I think Bigen would be a happy man.

We are in western KY, we are a very small dealer with 2 other dealerships in surrounding states.

Wish I had a beter camera because it's a really sharp Rawhide CHN!

Bigen finally made it to the shop, Hope to get him up to snuff on the matainance and upgrades.

Is the fues panel red or black?

Look back for to other post about same problems. There is a software and datafile for this problem, we do it all the time, it's called the "step 12B program with throttle pedal calibration". A good Mack dealer should know how to do it. Free download from Mack but you will have to pay for the labor to install it. Check out this post/thread http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=11429

FJH has few trucks running with block off plates with mixed results, haven't heard from him in a few days, hope he has some good news. My approch was to completly remove EGR valve, EGR cooler, mass flow pipe and oil lines and coolant lines to these componets ( to save weight, 60 lbs) . The only thing left would be the Mass flow ECM (behind engine ECM). With resistors plugged into the mass flow ECM I could fool the EGR flow and EGR temp (these make up the Mass Flow sensor/pipe) into thinking it had some flow and a OK temp. The engine ECM looks at "target" EGR flow (what flow should be) and compares it with the "actual" flow (read from the Mass flow sensor) . If actual flow is 10pounds or more than target flow it sets a code (stuck open EGR valve probably). If the actual flow is 10 pounds less that the target flow it sets a code (plugged EGR cooler probably). The trick is to get a happy medium. I have made many trips to Radio Shack for resistors. Haven't given up yet but only get to work on it a few hours a week due to a full shop of broke trucks.

Fisrt thing I was gonna say was replace the power relay in front of the fuse panel but that has already been done. With the engine running wiggle the big round gray plug at the fuel pump and see if engine dies, reves up or almost dies. Could be RH engine wiring harness or injection pump.

Turn the cruise on/off button to off/down, then press and hold the acel button (next to the on/off) then release, watch the yellow malfunction light and count the flashes, should flash out a 2 diget code.

When I pulled your truck up in the Mack parts system it said it had be converted to a 400 HP. I then went to the software/engine site and found it was still a 355/380. Which is good because the 355/380 puts out 1560 ft lbs of torque (same as a 427), the 400HP puts out 1460 ft lbs of torque. If I was going to change I would go to a 460 and get the 1660 ft lbs.

Your truck needs the turbo, injectors, download and the cam gear key way changed. Its ashame as you just had your cam out and they could have cahnged the key way and bumped the HP to 460. Here is a chart I made for the ETECH only engines showing the difference in engine parts per HP. I have different list for the CCRS style ETECH and the ASET-AC and AI versions.

Any certain area, my diagram is quite large, I can copy the part you need and post it here.

Last 6 of the vin and I can tell you exactly what you need. Best guess right now, you would need turbo, injectors, download and possible off set key way on the camshaft (to prevent overheating). We do alot of HP conversions here at our shop.