Mackpro

Look back for to other post about same problems. There is a software and datafile for this problem, we do it all the time, it's called the "step 12B program with throttle pedal calibration". A good Mack dealer should know how to do it. Free download from Mack but you will have to pay for the labor to install it. Check out this post/thread http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=11429

FJH has few trucks running with block off plates with mixed results, haven't heard from him in a few days, hope he has some good news. My approch was to completly remove EGR valve, EGR cooler, mass flow pipe and oil lines and coolant lines to these componets ( to save weight, 60 lbs) . The only thing left would be the Mass flow ECM (behind engine ECM). With resistors plugged into the mass flow ECM I could fool the EGR flow and EGR temp (these make up the Mass Flow sensor/pipe) into thinking it had some flow and a OK temp. The engine ECM looks at "target" EGR flow (what flow should be) and compares it with the "actual" flow (read from the Mass flow sensor) . If actual flow is 10pounds or more than target flow it sets a code (stuck open EGR valve probably). If the actual flow is 10 pounds less that the target flow it sets a code (plugged EGR cooler probably). The trick is to get a happy medium. I have made many trips to Radio Shack for resistors. Haven't given up yet but only get to work on it a few hours a week due to a full shop of broke trucks.

Fisrt thing I was gonna say was replace the power relay in front of the fuse panel but that has already been done. With the engine running wiggle the big round gray plug at the fuel pump and see if engine dies, reves up or almost dies. Could be RH engine wiring harness or injection pump.

Turn the cruise on/off button to off/down, then press and hold the acel button (next to the on/off) then release, watch the yellow malfunction light and count the flashes, should flash out a 2 diget code.

When I pulled your truck up in the Mack parts system it said it had be converted to a 400 HP. I then went to the software/engine site and found it was still a 355/380. Which is good because the 355/380 puts out 1560 ft lbs of torque (same as a 427), the 400HP puts out 1460 ft lbs of torque. If I was going to change I would go to a 460 and get the 1660 ft lbs.

Your truck needs the turbo, injectors, download and the cam gear key way changed. Its ashame as you just had your cam out and they could have cahnged the key way and bumped the HP to 460. Here is a chart I made for the ETECH only engines showing the difference in engine parts per HP. I have different list for the CCRS style ETECH and the ASET-AC and AI versions.

Any certain area, my diagram is quite large, I can copy the part you need and post it here.

Last 6 of the vin and I can tell you exactly what you need. Best guess right now, you would need turbo, injectors, download and possible off set key way on the camshaft (to prevent overheating). We do alot of HP conversions here at our shop.

There could be some truth to that. The EUP pumps do leak some fuel into the oil pan, this is normal but if you change your oil as recommended it should never get to the level that would thin the oil out enough to cause a problem. There have been EUP failures that have dumped lots of fuel into the pan but your hot idle oil pressure would be so low it would set the low oil pressure code.

Back in the early ETECH days we would have as many as 3-4 cam jobs going on at the time. The newer cam kits have better roller lifters for improved oiling. Yours probably has the steel rollers they latter changed to cermaic rollers which lasted lcnger but any excesive valve lash (broken rocker arm, rocker arm shaft, rocker arm bolts or bent push tube) would crack them and they would fail as well. From what I've see engine brake makes no diffence on how long they last. Sadly it's just the nature of the beast.

I assume he was ok!

I'm ready, let me know when, I have a MP8 turbo coming in on Tuesday but can call him and have him come in another day. Other than than that the whole week is open.

Time to chrome it up, on a side note, we (Bossman) just ordered a new 2011 CHU with MP8 505HP ( has SCR) I cant wait to slap some some chrome on it.

Wow, I love it, Axle forward CH's of all years are my fave. I missed out on what happened to his 09 CXU?

It's a $1000 cheaper than a Mack/Borg Warner reman unit I could get for ya. Our turbo and injector shop we use (a great one in my opinion) tried to get into rebuilding these style turbos a few years back. They had all kinds of problems with the variable vanes sticking when the turbo would heat up and everything started to expand. I think they quit trying to rebuild them.

Thats a good price on the turbo but warranty would scare me. Let me see how much I can get you one for.

Mack parts says yes, if you order a M3 it crosses up to a M5. 12MS45M5 - Current Part 12MS45M4 12MS45M3 Part No. Backchain Description 12MS45M2* N MODULE

The newer Pinnacle style cabs (CXP,CTP,CHU,CXU,GU) are much more easy to change to the filter. It also helps to use a air blow gun and a tooth brush to help clean out the evaparator core.

Here's the service bulletin on it , hope it tell's ya what ya need to know. surge tank.pdf

To get to the filter, you remove the 2 screws in the cup holder (1 screw where each cup goes) lift up the top part of the cup holder. Then remove the 2 screws that hold the lower part of the cup holder to the AC/Heater cover/panel. Then you will see 2 more screws that go into the cover/panel, remove those as well. Then remove the 4 or 5 screws down the passenger side of the cover/panel and the 1 or 2 on the driver side of the cover. The cover will come off, ( the cover and unit has a alinment pin in the bottom that go over each other) then you can see the blue screen/filter on the passenger side of the unit, pull it out and wash it out. Kinda a pain in the butt to get at but when clean makes a big difference in AC performance.

That's confirms what I found with the "export" trucks, when we pull up the axle and spring arrangments in Mack parts it really dont tell us what rating the springs are. There are 5 different steer axle springs for the CXN, 12K standard with or without grease fittings, 12K heavyduty with or without grease fittings (as per Mack Service Bulletin I found)and then one part # for the 14K spring (does not say with grease fittings) Thanks for the VIN. Also your truck has an active recall for the fuel injector lines, Recall # SC324, you might already have the new injector lines installed due to another repair, like replacing exhaust manifold gaskets.

There are several retrofit DPF's for trucks out there. http://cumminsemissionsolutions.com/retrofit.html for one, Mack even endorses one on their website, Huss Retrofit is recommened by Mack but they cant even make their website stay up! http://www.motortrend.com/features/newswire/41570/index.html. I think $1500 to 2500 wont touch a total install. FJH, have you went to the Mack SCR school yet? We had guys there this week in Chicago and next week in Atlanta. I'am setting out on this SCR stuff as my brain is full!

I would like to see someone get one installed for $1200 to $2500!

Just the last 6 would be great. I thing I found some VIN's. Looks like back in 2005 Mack exported 150 CXN's to Venezuela, They had (I think) 14k steer axles and Mack 18 speed trannys. Like to look up your VIN to compare, Thanks!

This is for a CD/radio but I think the controls are the same, hope it helps.