Mackpro

There are a couple service bulletin's on stuff like that, one has to due with the engine position sensor on the timing cover and the other one has to do with the starter solinoid(on the starter). I'll see what I can find.

The "Huck" bolts have been around since 1989 (wow that was 20 years ago , time flys) when the first CH's came out. I think Mack sent us the Huck tool as part of the madatory tool program. Easy to use. They do make a "body bound" bolt to replace a Huck bolt for the do-it-yourselfers.

They already are, My 3 year old watches Dora the Explorer(spanish) and He How Ki-Lan (chinese) cartoons.

Back in the 90's and early 00's I turned in 60-80 warranty claims a year where now it's 600+. Things were so simple back then.

This is true, it's hard for the owner/operator with one truck. You need a back up truck. We have had DPF problems with the LEU/ MRU DPF's where the truck was down for 3-15 working days. Somewhat less for the CHU/GU/CXU's. Thing are getting better though with the DPF trucks. It's just now we start all over with SCR problems.

E-service for parts is great. I use it alot for HP conversions and Josh there is the best, very quick with my request, I think he new to the Mack side but sure caught on fast and is great . Tech Support is where I have my problem, if they dont know the answer to my question, be honest and tell me, I dont expect them to know every answer to my questions but at least try to find out instead of blowing me off with "follow GD" . The only reason I'm posting this outside of the "Corprate forum" is to let the customers out there know what it's like for us Tech's to get help/info for hard diagnostic problems. I try to use E-service because Mack warranty wont pay us to be on hold for 15-30 minutes (or more) if we try to call Tech support on the phone.

The "Telma" driveline brakes do work good, all the LE garabge trucks around here have them. Never seen them outside of the refuse industry. They are heavy but in your line of work a few pounds wont matter. A very good friend works for Republic Waste and says the Telma extends their brake shoes almost 75%.

The E-service is easy to use but every question I ask is always answered by "follow GD (guided diagnostics)" . I asked a easy question about EGR flow when the EGR valve is closed on a MP7 and same answer "follow GD". The only reason I use E-service is to document a problem and get a E-service case number so I can enter it into the E-warranty to get extra diagnostic time if needed. E-service is a joke, back before the big move when Mack still had it's own engineers, we had all their phone #'s and could call for questions, now that Volvo has taken over and all the Mack guys are gone(almost,God Bless Dan Lamarch and one or two others) we have no real contact with the engineers. We are a Mack only dealer and used to do Cummins warranty and your right about rapidserve (Cummins warranty system) it sucked and we dropped being a Cummins dealer. I do all warranty claims and the Mack is better than the rest, Fuller is OK but I rate Meritor the worst. I have never took the time to write a big corporation a nasty letter but I did that day and all over a $50 part that they would not warranty. I was pissed beyond belief. I have 3 close friends who buy new Mack's every 4 years and when they ask me about spec'ing one out you can bet it dont have Meritor trans or axle's. That $50 part cost them more than they will ever know.

I did get word last week that all MP with SCR will have the stainless cups, no word on being able to install these in the older MP's. I do think that the MP engine is a good engine but like he said its the extra crap thats bolted on that gives the most trouble. If they get the cups and wiring harness problem fixed we will be go to go. Just got done replacing a complete engine wiring harness and oil level sensor on a 2 year old MRU full of garbage, I know Mack warranty wont pay the 2 days it took me to do it in.

When this happens does to engine stay at 650 rpm's or does it go to 900 rpm's. If the throttle pedal is bad it usually gives a code or if its the J1939 link the engine idle is 900 and the throttle wont work. I would try a new pedal anyway even without codes it could be bad. Heres parts of an email I got from the Mack enginners years ago even though your is not a CV or CT it could still have this jumper.. Had an issue with throttle cut out on a CV chassis. Found the problem to be poor connection on jumper at the body builder connection. Spoke with Dave Troupe in Allentown and verified the purpose of the Jumper to be for installation of Remote throttle control by Body builder. The jumper wire is to keep the throttle in operation until the body builder is done. If there is no remote throttle control installed then the jumper stays there. This is on 2004 and up Mack CV and CT. If there are complaints of throttle pedal cutout and codes check jumper wire at body builder harness behind right side lower kick panel by the VECU. This jumper wire tends to have a bad connection and will cause throttle codes. If bad cut the two wire ends and solder them together and cover with heat shrink. Do NOT remove tags from wire.

Last Friday I did my first test with my Mass Flow "fooler" and it did not work. Even with the correct ohm resistors installed it came back "open circuit" on the Mass Flow sensor. But I will not give up. Blocking off the EGR valve is somewhat easy. but I want to remove everything to save weight, I started to weigh every part that makes up the EGR system and it is close to 60 pounds of crap that we could remove from the engine. This week might be slow enough I can mess with it some more.

It could be done, what you will try to do is change the engine over to a CCRS ETECH style engine, but your looking at a complete engine wiring harness, exhaust manifold, new engine ECM, intake manifold off of an AI engine (for EMC mounting) and possible all 6 new EUP's and possible new VECU. Then your looking at 2 or more days to install all the parts then at least a day of programing to make it all work then who knows what actual HP will be due to different camshaft and compression ratio between the two engines.

We always set pump timing at least 1 degree above what it says on the valve cover. 1 and 1/2 is great but the closer you get to 2 it will start to get hot. I'm thinking the same as FJH , boost/ intake issues.

Found the bulletin but cant get the chart to appear, if need any more info I can e-mail it to anyone who needs it. DATE: 05/28/02 MODEL: E-TECH™ PRE-CCRS/CCRS Title: OFFSET CAMSHAFT KEYS FOR E-TECH™ ENGINES Offset Camshaft Keys For E-Tech™ Engines (Also Applies to Mack Trucks Australia) (Supersedes Bulletin SB-213-018 dated 2/29/00) To optimize camshaft timing for certain E-Tech™ pre-CCRS engine models, an offset type camshaft key (part No. 54GC29) has been developed. This key provides a cam gear offset of 1 degree cam/2 degrees engine from the straight key position. The offset key is color coded (with one end of the key painted white, and the other end painted red) and is installed with the offset either to the right (cam timing retarded) or to the left (cam timing advanced). The offset style key was released into production during June 1997 for E-Tech™ E7-427 and E7-460 engine models (beginning with engine serial number series 7M) and during January 1998 for certain other E-Tech™ engine models (beginning with engine serial number series 8A). Correct camshaft key offset installation is dependent upon engine horsepower ratings. When utilizing the offset key, it must be installed with the proper color facing front. The figure below illustrates the E-Tech™ cam gear keys and their identifying features. If a key has lost its paint markings, it can be properly installed by placing the offset (as viewed from the front) in the direction shown below. Refer to the chart on page 2 for the various key applications. Straight camshaft keys (43AX9) are used on all E-Tech™ CCRS engines regardless of horsepower.

I was actually messing with my Mass flow resistors today. Its been so crazy around here and been stuck on to many big jobs, not enough hr in the day to get them done. I did have a 2004 in today that was running fine but had a active for the EGR valve, found the EGR cooler plugged solid, thought about leaving it plugged (same as a EGR valve block off plate) but customer wanted it cleaned or replaced, filled it full of mineral sprits for 3 hrs the steam cleaned out, all OK. The code wasnt putting it in limp mode just letting you know that the EGR measured flow didnt match the target flow ( has to be off by 10 lbs). That what I have been playing with to fool the ECM into think it does have just enough flow to keep the code from becoming active. I cant wait to hear your results.

Probably not to many RB's with 460 ETECHs in them running around? if you know of any , ask to raise the hood and measure the diameter of W/P pully or ask the local Mack dealer to pull one off the shelf and measure and compare it to what you have on the truck . I have seen wrong parts put in the right box, gotta remember we now have Volvo in charge so anything is possible. Maybe a slipping water pump impeller, rare but it has happened. Also I saw a lower crank pully so wore out that the V-belts were sinking to the bottom and not grabbing good when tight, long shot though. Mack used to make lower temp thermostats but our parts guys here only keep the standard one (180 I think). I does have a thermostat in it I hope.

Its a off-set key way that goes on the cam gear. Retards the cam timing 1/2 degree. On the first series of ETECH engines 350-400 HP had straight key way, 427-460 HP off set retarded and 275-300 HP had off set advanced. When doing a HP conversion up 427-460 we had to pull the camshaft and press the gear off and install the off set key way. I have seen CL trucks get by with out changing the keyway due to large radiator but I have personal experiance with an RD that we tried without changing the keyway, it was back before summer to have it installed. Customer was tring to save money but had to do it after all. I have a service bulletin on it here some where, will post it when I find it. The ETECH CCRS series (starting around 2002) engine all used straight keyway's regardless of HP.

We sold a new RD or Rb or mabe a R688S many years ago (mech fuel pump) and it ran hot since new, Mack sent an engineer down to help us find the problem and turns out Mack put te wrong water pump on, even in the parts book/micro fich it listed the wrong part#. (micro-fich= along time ago). I did find a shop rag in an oil cooler one time and yes it made it run hot.

Most all 1992 CH's had electronic fuel pumps, if it does, it really needs to have the idle set with a computer/Mack dealer. Is the throttle pedal have a linkage rod (manual pump)going to it or electrical wires/plug. If it is a electronic pump/throttle pedal the idle can be raised but I'll have to find it in the book and post it here.

Did it come from the factory as a 460HP? If it came orignally as a 350/400HP and someone bumped the HP up and didn't change the camshaft keyway it will overheat in the summer time. I know I have done it. If it was orignally a 460HP did it just start doing this? I have seen the wrong water pump put on and the truck over heats (pully to small or to big).

That time is about what Mack pays us on warranty but in real life it could take longer. I'm thinking about 4 hr.

Did it put oil in the radiator/coolant? Also I assume it the round tube style and not the newer square box style? I can look it up in my warranty labor code/time in the morning.

We mostly had the problems with the CHU model trucks however I have heard the the CXU truck could have it too. All the ones I heard of had MP8 engines. The Mack engineer I talked to said it was a "hamonic vibration" from the engine and the cab "soaked" it up. All of those engineers are gone from Mack now since the big move from Allentown. One small note, one of the CHU's still had a slight vibration after we installed all the new parts, it was later that we found out it had a out of balance drive shaft. Here is a E-mail from Mack back on 2/12/08. I received your voicemail regarding the CHU613 unit with the vibration complaint. Jim Gallagher is correct we have seen this issue before in which there is a reoccurring resonant vibration in the cab while under a load in mid to high range gears (at approx. 40-60mph). Here is a parts list that you will need based on a 300mm frame and “AL” suspension (see below). If you have any questions – let me know. Rear Suspension AL461 – AL401 300mm Frame Part Number Qty Front Cab Mounts 30QS4590M 2 Shelf Bracket L.H - 300 30QS4617M 1 Shelf Bracket R.H - 300 30QS4617M2 1 Upper Frame Tie - 300 30QS4619M 1 Upper frame Tie Bolts 27AM16 4 Upper Frame Tie Nuts 191AM4 4 Rear Engine Mounts 20QL414M 1 Front Drive Axle Seats N/A N/A Rear Drive Axle seats N/A N/A Edge Shocks 4000-60675001 4 Upper Sleeve N/A N/A Upper Sleeve N/A N/A Lower Sleeve N/A N/A Thanks,

I have to correct myself, they are titled as "salvage".

Nobody around here really checks anything as far as emissions go and the truck never leave a 75 mile radius from home.