Mackpro

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SB414004 Date: 02/13/06 Model: CXN, CHN, CXP (Also applies to Mack Trucks Australia) Change to DEXRON® III in the Power Steering System Effective December 12, 2005, DEXRON® III became the factory fill for the power steering system on all CXP, CXN and CHN model chassis. Chassis using DEXRON® III in the power steering system can be identified by the label affixed to the power steering reservoir (refer to figure 1 below). Any DEXRON®-type fluid can be used in the power steering system. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- When adding fluid to the power steering system, always check the label on the side of the reservoir and be sure to use the correct fluid.

Does it have motor oil or ATF in it? You really need to change the fulid to ATF and change the filter. Also look at the P/S dipstick it should have a upside down cup/washer shield on the indicator/shaft, right above the twisted part of the shaft. If this is missing it is down in the resivore somewhere. Have seen this happen before.

Here is the service bulletin on it.SB214036 Date: 07/21/05 Model: ASET™ AC (Not applicable to Mack Trucks Australia) (Supersedes SB214036 dated 05/05/05) Turbocharger Oil Drain Tube for ASET™ AC Engines Equipped with Turbocharger Part No. 631GC5176(©M Effective March 2, 2005, beginning with engine serial No. 5E2939, a revised turbocharger oil drain tube (part No. 681GC544) was implemented into production on all ASET™ AC engines, in conjunction with the production release of the 631GC5176BM turbocharger. The outside diameter of the revised oil drain tube, from the lower end of the bellows to the cylinder block flange, is 1-1/4" (31.75 mm), whereas the outside diameter of the previous drain tube (part No. 681GC538) was 1" (25.4 mm). The larger tube diameter results in improved oil flow and oil drain-back through the turbocharger and drain tube. Turbocharger Drain Tube Part No. 681GC544 Key Qty. Part No. Description Replaces 1 1 681GC544 Turbocharger oil drain tube (used with turbocharger part No. 631GC5176[C]M) 681GC538 2 2 189AM3 Nuts, flanged, M10 x 1.50 Pre-March 2004 bolt and Silastic® mounting arrangement 3 1 56AX605 Gasket 4 2 107AM5021 Studs, M10 x 1.50, short end 20 mm, long end 28.5 mm When replacing an existing 631GC5171(A)M or 631GC5176(A)M turbocharger with a 631GC5176(©M turbocharger, the oil drain tube must also be replaced with the new 681GC544 drain tube. Failure to do so can result in oil leakage at the turbocharger. If a chassis is being upgraded from a 631GC5171(A)M series turbocharger to a 631GC5176(A)(©M, refer to service bulletin SB214019 for important programming information. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The 631GC5176CM series turbocharger is the only valid replacement for the 631GC5171(A)M and 631GC5176(A)(B)M series turbochargers. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- When mounting the new drain tube to the engine block, it is recommended to standardize on the stud, gasket and nut mounting arrangement. This mounting arrangement has been used in production since mid-March 2004. Engines manufactured prior to that date used Silastic® instead of a gasket, and bolts instead of studs and nuts to mount the drain tube. The studs are to be installed with the short threaded-end in the cylinder block. Tighten the mounting nuts to 40 lb-ft (54 N•m). When using the stud and nut mounting arrangement for the turbocharger oil drain tube on engines having the earlier EGR cooler with the flange connection at the outlet port (part No. 28GB517[A][C]), a spacer (part No. 505GC19P25) is required between the EGR cooler upper forward mount and the cylinder block boss. The spacer is required to compensate for the difference in thickness between the gasket and the Silastic® material. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When the ASET ac first came out the turbo part# started with 631GC5171****, Then after much trouble they redesigned it and the new #starts with a 631GC5176****. Any time the engine came with the 5171 and you changed it to the 5176 stlye the dealer has to call Mack and have the engine software/datafile changed. I think this was only on the 2004 and maybe early 05's. I would have the dealer call and make sure it has the right engine data. The turbo oil drain back tube service bulletin was also only on the 2004's , I will look it up to be sure.

The very back sensor that faces the firewall goes to the ECM, the one that faces out toward the hood goes only to the guage on the dash. Got snowed in today and am not at work so I cant look at the wiring diagram, I'll see what I can find tommorrow. Have you shot air directly to the fan clutch to see if it will engage or disengage( however it is set up)? I think a fuse in the fuse panel sends 12 volts to the solinoid all the time andcomes back and then grounds inside the ECM. The ECM will make the ground when it see's high R12 A/C head pressure, high water temp or high intake temp to engage the fan.

Your year model is tricky because it could be either a VMAC1 or VMAC2 (engine electronics), all fuses and ECM's are in the cab on both models( unlike the ETECH style engine). VMAC1 had nothing to do with engine fan control, the fan control was kinda added on and not really part of the VMAC system.It had it's own 2 prong sending unit ontop of the water manifold, the degrees stamped on the sensor tells what temp it will engage(usually around 205) . When VMAC2 came out, it controlled the fan on/off. It used the existing temp sensor for the ECM to decide when to turn on the fan. The dealer could also raise and lower the engagement temp with a prolink computer. Both systems still used the same fan clutch and solinoid. Which light is coming on red shutdown or yellow electronic malfunction? If it's both it's the low water sensor or wiring to the sensor or really has low coolant. Is your metal radiator cap on the radiator itself or on an overflow/surge tank in the fire wall? Forgot to mention, love your truck, Alxe forward CH's are my faavorite! One of the best ones I ever drove was a 1990 with a E-7 400hp manual fuel pump, the old man that taught me all about Macks cranked the rpms and fuel to it and it was a screamer. The second best was a 1996 with a E-7 454hp it was awesome as well.

They dont use the middle o-ring any more. You have to ask for the special Delta o-ring kit, part# 1899-O71356 or reffer them to Mack service bulletin SB221038 In the kit the top oring is the same but the bottom o-ring has a triangle shaped o-ring with 2 plastic rings on either side.

We had a 99 RD that had the EUP bolts broken on a cylinder and the EUP damanged the block where the O-ring seals in the block and fuel would leak by into the oil pan. We had to take some JB Weld and (with customers approval) and repair the gouge and install the new style "Delta 3 piece lower O-ring" as per Mack service bulletin.

The o-rings on the EUP's are probably leaking fuel into the oil pan. Did you replace the o-ring's on the EUP's that popped out? The "Mack" cam kit for the ETECH engine has the new upgraded EUP bolts included in it. Hope he put them in and not tossed them.

That might be alittle high, I figure at worst you would need a turbo ( plus a wrecker call for a popped turbo), EGR cooler, Mass Flow sensor/tube, exhaust manifold gaskets and a couple EUP pumps every 300-400K miles . However I have seen most trucks go longer with less problems. We have a local fleet (20 trucks) with 2005-06 CXN's and they bought the factory extended warranty and it really paid off down the road. I see EUP's as the most common problem.

All our DPF issues are with the ENCOM style that are on the MRU's and LEU's. The DPF's on the CXC, CHU and GU are totally different and usually dont cause problems. I do all the warranty claims here at our dealer and I would think the warranty would cover that or I would try to get our DSM to cover it if the customer bought the truck from us and was a long time customer. Not that many parts on a Mack are made in China, I know the cast turbo outlet pipe on the 07 emission MP engine is made there and like you said some bearings come from there also.

I would be close to being done with this EGR removal project but I keep getting MRU's and LEU's in the shop with DPF issues, 6 days a week for the last 6 weeks, thats all I have been doing.

We have an 04 on the lot that I have been eyeballing to experiment with but it might be gone soon. We sell lots of used trucks, we got in 4 used "Flying J" trucks on Monday and 3 are already sold and we sold another plain white CX this week too. 98% of what we sell are non-sleeper tractors to farmers and a few dump trucks and garbage trucks. Seems like every farmer in a hundred of here has 1 or more Mack's. We try to buy up used fleet trucks in the 2003 pre emission years, sometimes we buy as many as 25 or more at time. If we do get in a sleeper truck in on trade our body shop takes the sleeper off and our frame guy shortens the wheelbase and sell it as a daycab. It's been a good year for us in the used truck dept. My friend's 2 new GU's just got built and ready for dump beds. His 2 trucks might be the only new trucks we will sell this year.

This would be "for testing purposes only" not to be left on the engine WINK WINK. Thats my EPA disclaimer! I wanted to totally remove the EGR valve and oil lines to and from EGR valve, remove EGR cooler and mass flow sensor pipe, block off EGR valve and intake manifold connection. The only thing left would be the mass flow ECM behind the engine ECM with my plug-in with resistors. This would lighten up truck 40 lbs

I'm still working on a EGR system removal kit. Got the Mass Flow ECM plug with attached resistors to fool the ECM. The ECM will think that the EGR temp and flow are correct. Got the resistors from Radio Shack . Just been super busy around here. Boss man said I could try it out on one of the 04's when I get ready.

Dont feel bad we had a MRU brought into the shop on 1/6/10 and we finally got it fixed and out on 1/29/10. It had bad DPF problems, we dont know what we did to fix it other than throw lots of parts at it, but we go it done. The MRU and LEU (mostly garbage trucks) have a totally different DPF system on them due to low exhaust temp because of stop and go driving.

We ran into several 2000 Macks that did this. It turned out to be the starter solnoid on the starter. Mack came up with a service bulletin about it, sometimes it would set a 9-2 code but most time it happened so fast it didnt set a code. In a hard pull the engine would lean to the right and a pin inside the sarter solnoid would fall over and short out the battery cable/power supply and this would kill the engine and then the engine would lean back the other way and the pin would fall back away from the power supply and engine would run OK. This only happened on the big Delco starters not the little foreign made starters (those would just catch fire and burn the truck down)

This was true, it was a Y2K glitch in the Mack software. We only had a few trucks do it here and a software download fixed it.

Foe the most part the DPF's on the CHU/CXU and GU's have few problems. Sometimes on the 08 and early 09 versions that dont have the air purge/self cleaning 7th injector tou have to clean the soot off the 7th injector once or twice a year. The newer 09 and up have fewer problems. Engine issues cause most DPF problems, Bad turbo's, stuck EGR valve, over fueling/cracked injector can flood the DPF with soot or lack of air to burn out the soot. It can be a real pain to figure out. It's not a every day thing but it does happen. We have see this enough now to kinda know what to look for. Good luck and I hope they get it fixed soon.

Make sure the H-ring is straight and not turned or to high. The H-ring is the sleeve that is drove down into the block, it holds the lifter straight. Alot of the time if the engine is run enough with a bad lifter it will beat the H-ring up to high in the block or turn sideways. You can check it by pulling all the push tubes out the put a straight edge on top of the heads and running a welding rod down to the H-ring, then mark the H-ring height on the welding rod to the straight edge. Compare the heights to the bad lifter H-ring. If it is high sometimes you can drive it down with a punch otherwise you have to pull the head and install a new one. good luck.

Let me seek what I can up with later tonight

We are a Mack dealer and we sell chrome steel bumpers from Hendrickson for around $850 and new plastic Mack bumper is over $1000.

I think I could do those cam jobs in my sleep. The first round of cam jobs sucked because Mack wanted us to also change the cam bearings, then changed it to only if you can hang your fingernail on #2 and #5 bearing. Then the round of cam jobs where the locating pin on the EUP's rollers broke off in the block and the roller spun around and took out the cam. Thoses days are behind us I hope. Now its just when the rocker arm hold down bolts break and the driver keeps driving and bust the ceramic roller lifter and messes up the cam. I'm running the overhead on an CV with an AI in it as we speak and I'm replacing the bolts as per Mack service bulletin so I dont have to put a cam in this one later.

Anything "Howes" is good stuff. One of my best customers uses many of their products and he is very picky about anything he uses on his trucks. I use Lucus fuel treatment my personal cars, trucks and boats but none are diesel.

If I had all the money our shop made off me doing cam jobs on ETECH's I would retire today!