razorback11

Anyone out there have a set of decent Driver Door Hinges for a B-Model I could purchase? Respond here or e-mail me at greasley@cox.net. Much appreciated.

Nothing heard...guess Kuis found some Wing windows.

Kuis, I too had to rebuild my vent window frames. However, I had four frames to work with and have one complete window left over and one frame that needs some work. The driver's window is complete with handle and glass and is in decent shape...needs rubber. The ditch side frame (inside and outside) needs some clean-up, a bit of welding, new rubber and glass. I have a handle for it but not the stem the handle goes on. I will attempt to post photos. E-mail me at greasley@cox.net if interested. Don't need a bunch of money for these things...just trying to help out.

Only painted the outside of the canister. Shouldn't have effected the seal at all. I drained the oil out of the canister this evening. I will crack it open when it quits raining around here (Yorktown, VA,) and try to get the filter # off it.. Truck is on Jack stands in a large carport-like structure. Rain usually stays off of it but don't want to open up critical parts when it is raining just in case.

Mine is the rather large canister and has Two large oil lines that go out of the bottom and send and receive oil to and from the top and end of the oil cooler. I have a smaller line that exits the bottom of the filter can and runs back in to the block. I do not have any lines in to of the canister....just a big filler hole. When I bought the truck, it was running and the filter canister was not leaking. I have cleaned up the canister, painted it, switched out the filter with a new one (same number) attempted to use the same O-ring and I cranked down on the clamp until it won't move any more...as soon as the oil pressure builds...oil starts spraying out of the seam. On the positive side, I have very good oil pressure and it is making it to the top of the engine.. that is always a worry. On the negative, can't get the Oil Filter canister to play ball.

That is good information! Wouldn't hurt to order a new one. Thanks Much.

OK, I will drain the oil back down below the seam, clean everything up again, turn the O-ring over, and put it back together. I will attempt to open the vent a bit to see if that helps out any. I will keep you all posted as to how it comes out. Thanks much. Razorback11

Ladies and Gents. I finally started my END711engine after tearing it down and putting it back together. However, I need to ask...I have the large oil filter that hangs off the drivers side of the block...you know the one...bout the size of a small trash can and holds about 3 gallons of oil. Well I have tried everything I know to get it to stop leaking oil around the seam where the bottom of the can meets the top. I have drained it twice, cleaned it up mounted the O-ring (which looks good...don't think it needs replacing. Last time I put the O-ring on with RTV. I tighten the big round clamp as tight as it will go but every time I turn the engine over and oil pressure builds oil come spraying out of that seam. I am out of ideas at the moment. before I drain the oil back out for another try...thought I would ask the experts. What am I doing wrong?

Sounds like a plan to me...thanks freightrain

Roger that...WILCO

All good information...thanks much.

After tearing down my END 711, replacing some pistons, cleaning, and painting everything, I now have the engine back together and would like to start and run it a bit to check and see if all is well. Obviously, I must first replace the required fluids and I need your advice because this is a first for me and I need to do it right. I have a maintenance manual that address the more common Mack engines but very little discussion on the END 711. So, my questions follow: OIL: My manual recommends presoaking the oil filter prior to placing it in the can. It also tells me to soak the engine block vent filter. 1. Is there a prudent sequence to filling the engine with the correct amount of oil? (i.e. Do I fill the crank case first and then the oil filter? Does it matter?) 2. Can anyone enlighten me as to how much (guarts or pints) oil it will take to fill the crank case and how much it will take to fill the oil filter can? 3. Am I forgetting to add oil somewhere on the engine prior to start? TRANNY OIL: I have the Quadraplex tranny and I had to drain the oil in order to remove a PTO I no longer need on the truck. 1. Where do you add oil to the tranny? (Driver's side?) 2. Is there any trick to adding tranny oil? 3. Any idea how much oil is required to fill the Quad box? FUEL: I have a pump on my new primary fuel filter that will pump fuel to the fuel pump. I have a hand pump on the fuel pump that will get fuel to the injectors (I assume) 1. Should I hand fill the secondary fuel filter prior to starting or will it fill naturally as the engine runs? 2. Should I add fuel anywhere else on the engine prior to starting? COOLANT: My book tell me I have a 48 qt. radiator and I have read on BMT that the green antifreeze is the way to go in these old Macks. Do I have this right? FINALLY: Any other "Pre-Start" tips or suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks. Razorback11

I have not run into the issue Dirtymilkman is experiencing. I have some items around I painted a few years ago and the look great. I clean bare metal with thinner and then wipe down with 91% alcohol and I normally use automotive primer in rattle cans. What I really like about Rustoleum is that when I scratch it, which I tend to do when mounting truck parts, it is very easy to touch up and looks great again. I have been to the shows where the distributers are selling the "High Priced" frame paint...and I am talking really high priced! I'm sure their paint is awesome.....I just can't afford it. I will stick with what I am doing for now.

Rusty dog, the B-model you pieced together was absolutely a work of art. I can't believe there is a California custom car shop that could have done better with that truck. make me want to throw rocks at my truck. Bbpools, the paint harder I am using with the Rustolium is "Valspar Enamel Hardener". Comes in 8 oz cans which will service a gallon of paint. However, I have to do the math to mix smaller portions because I am not spraying a gallon at a time and if you end up with leftover paint that has been mixed with hardener....you basically have 2 choices. You can find something to use the paint on inside the 8 hour window since you first mixed it....or you can heave it because it will harden into a brick. I follow the instructions and stir/mix the paint and hardener for a solid 30 minutes to be sure it is completely activated prior to spraying or painting with a brush. As I recall, I searched for the hardener on the internet and ordered about six or eight cans. Hope this helps. Thomastractorsvc, My truck started out it's life as a tractor/5th wheel, hauling grain trailers in Pennsylvania. It morphed several times and finally ended up as a dump truck in North Carolina. I purchased and am changing it back to its original tractor configuration.

Mack58B42 is spot on. There is something about B-model wreckers that just make a guy turn and stare. They really start the drool pumps. I think they are the meanest looking of the B-models...especially the tandem axle models. Maybe it is the fact that when every other truck has or had a bad day....it was the B-model wrecker that would show up to take over the situation. They just appear to be a beefy no-nonsence truck. I was at a truck show about three years ago and a single axle B-model wrecker pulled into position and parked right in front of me. To my surprise, one of the most beautiful women I have ever seen hopped out of the driver's seat. For some reason...just seemed appropriate.