CharlieK

Anyone have a wiring diagram for the 2000 E7 Etech Unit pumps? Number 3 is having a problem, and It's spending a lot of time with a miss. Had the same problem a few years back, swapped out the unit pump and it didn't fix it. Brought it in, and they ran a new wire which fixed it. Said I should probably get a new wiring harness. I'm hoping with a wiring diagram, i can find and string a new wire for #3... before the weekend is over!

okay, and as soon as I posted that, the thought occurred to me to set the cruise with a bumped up idle, and unplug wires to see which one shuts it off.... Any ideas other than that?

2000 Mack CH613, Vin last 6, 126398 Have the 7-2 Code, Parking Brake Switch. Dealer told me it could be one of two switches, sent me both. One is above the clutch, easy to see and get at, the other is above the throttle. This one is interesting, as there are 4 of them exactly alike. His suggestion was to unplug wires and see which one turned on the brake lights... But... My problem did not turn on the brake lights (had someone to follow me to watch while moving). When the electronic malfunction light comes on, the cruise control stops working (like the brake pedal is activated) but the brake lights do NOT come on. When I come to a stop, no moving at all, the light goes out. Start moving again, and get up to 15 mph, the light comes back on again. Its not guaranteed to come on right away either... It often comes on as soon as I hit 15 mph, but sometimes, its an hour later. Anyone have an easy way to narrow down which of the 4 switches it is? The malfunction does not occur at an idle...

Hey Folks! I've been putting off asking this for far too long now, cause, well.... I kinda feel like an idiot asking :-) I have a 2000 Mack CH613, 350, with an Eaton Fuller 10 speed. I've been wishing for a lil more "umpf" on some of our south eastern Minnesota rolling hills. I'm considering getting rid of the 10 speed for a 13, but I don't think I want to stop there. So.... 1) I've been told by a gent that has run Macks for a long time, that I have an "E-Tech"... Except I can't find the word E-Tech anywhere on the truck. I only find an "Engine Model" tag on the valve cover, that says "E7-350". How do I know that I have a E-Tech? What is the difference between an E-Tech and a non E-Tech? 2) Whether I have an E-Tech or not... What kind of power is this thing capable of? Displacement is listed as 728 cu in, which, unless I'm seriously mistaken, is the same as the 460. Is the only difference between the 350 and 460... injectors, turbo, possibly a cam, (and I think I read, possibly a bigger radiator)? Can I turn this into a 460? 3) I do not currently have a jake brake. What is involved in putting one in? Thanks!

Hey Folks! I posted a couple of these tag pictures before, but... Is this the tool I need (okay, can probably do it without it) to put in my new rear main seal/wear ring?

85snowdog: I'll do my best to keep pictures comin' =) Dirtymilkman: I was wondering about the Dynamat inside the doors. I would guess that the Dynamat would actually go on the inside, of the outside skin, correct? If I'm remembering right, all the window crank and door handle stuff is mounted to the inside panel? When you mention black dash, are you talking about the "factory dash", just all black? This one is cracked up pretty bad, not sure if I'll try to find a replacement for it... or build my own.

Unfortunately, I haven't had a whole lot of time to get far on it... But I'm "kinda sorta" working on my RD. I built a new roll off hoist for it... Needed a clutch, trans front and rear seal were leaking, pto was leaking, rear main was leaking... So... If a guy has to pull the floor boards out to get at the trans mounts, may as well keep going, right? =) Whats my point? heh I'm looking for ideas for what to do with the interior! I've looked through some of the pictures here on bigmacktrucks, but I still have a long ways to go! I'm going to dynamat (or equivalent) everything inside, and the "kick panel" may be a good place to use that piece of aluminum deck plate that has been leaning up against the wall for 6 months! Don't think I care too much about keeping anything original (part of me thinks it would be cool, but part of me thinks it would be awesome to have the exterior of a '80 RD, but the interior of a plush high rise condo) Attached is the start... Hopefully I can spend some time with it... Charlie

Hey folks! Attached should be the engine tag from my 1980 Mack RD. It currently has 4" exhaust on it, and I have to re-do the exhaust. My question... Is there a power gain going from 4" to 6" exhaust? IF I was to do it... It would have to stay 4" just over 3 feet past the turbo (no room to squeeze anything bigger in there), then it could go to 6".. It would be 6" for another 2 feet, and then go to dual 6" if I was to do it. If all that makes sense.... Half the truck guys I talk to say I wouldn't notice the difference... The other half say that the first half is nuts, that I will notice the difference for sure. If I was to do it, now is the time... I would do it if I know for sure that there would be any gain at all, no matter how little. Question is, would there be? My gut tells me I would not notice a difference, but I'm thinking if I could do it closer to the turbo I might... Whatcha think? Thanks, Charlie

And another thing... Going off the vin#, this truck is only supposed to be a single axle.... But its not! I'm not sure how much of it has been changed/modified from its glory days...

See if those pictures work... The front of the cab has what I would call pivoting mounts... Second picture is the back of the cab. (if they load) The radiator does have rods going to the firewall, but the radiator is mounted on the bottom, with rubber mounts, almost like it is supposed to pivot... But, that's just my impression. The hood to cab rest... The hood has a rubber block, the cab has a 4"? diameter round plate at an angle. Once again, giving me the impression that its there to allow movement.

Howdy! First time posting! I have a 1980 RD612 (looks like that's how you refer to the model?) I'm curious how to go about making the cab air ride. Is it as simple as getting rid of the rear center cab mount and installing an air bag/shocks? Anything else need to be done? Is there a kit available? Or is it just something to make up as you go along? Thanks, Charlie