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The gearbox mentioned sounds similar to a TRDXL1070, and a TRDXL107. These were both 5 speed main sections with a high/low section. The TRDXL1070 has a lockout in the compund section which only allows the second lever to be shifted when the main is in 4th and 5th. The TRDXL107 has a lockout in the compound section which only allows the second lever to be shifted when the main is in 1st and reverse. Can someone tell me what the difference is in the gearbox mentioned?

Gday everyone we are holding a Mack Muster in Kyabram in regional Victoria on the the 15th and 16th of March. Kyabram is a small town about 2 hours north west of Melbourne. We are hoping for a big turn out of old and new Macks, and lots of enthusiasts. Its a huge ask for most of you to come across but you are all more than welcome to come along and see some Aussie Macks. Best Regards, Skip.

FRAM number is C206

You wont be able to buy parts for that engine if it shits itself. If you want 400hp then get an E9. Personally I wouldnt use an 865 for that sort of work. Thats just my opinion. Skip

Yep its on the back of the injector pump. Make sure you fill both filters with fresh fuel first. And if you havent started the thing up for a while (sorry Im not sure if you've had it running while youve had the truck), and its been sitting for an extended period, give stopper lever a couple of good flicks with the cable off it, make sure you can hear the rack in the pump 'clacking' back. Ive had one here that the LHS rack had been stuck on, and it had been sitting less than 2 years. It flew out to high revs on startup, lucky I had a block of wood to cover the intake, andgotit stopped quickly. Good luck.Skip.

It sure does Vinny. The motor was pulled down when I got it,and we rebuilt it from top to bottom. Very hard to find parts for. Its one of only 25 RH drive units produced

Hey guys here is my R615RS (Flintstone) with my F785RS on the back. It was after a local truck show earlier in the year. Regards, Skip

Vladislav that belongs to LW & Ck Cocks transport from Eden, which is on the coast between Sydney and Melbourne. They used to have 4 or 5 Superliners and this is their last one, and its still working. They are great looking trucks, Ive been lucky enough to get a few photos of this one over the years

Thanks for the replies everyone. It is a good old truck,although the cab needs a tidy up, Im hoping to get that done next year. The harvest here in south eastern australia, is mostly wheat with some canola and barley. Average trip for me this year was around 18 mile or so. Most loads on this outfit are between 27 and 28 ton. around 43 ton GCM. Plenty of weight for a 237 to get moving! Now Vladislav you may be thinking of a Superliner tow truck (wrecker) in the red and silver colours. It was owned by the same company that owned my F. It had a wrecker body on it before I bought it, but the previous owner kept it. Those trucks operated north of Sydney on the Pacific Highway. Thanks for the input guys. Skip

Gday everyone. I thought I might post a couple of shots of my F785RS, it has just finished harvest for this year. 237 Maxidyne (greatest engine ever) with a 9spd Roadranger. 1970 model. I carted about 3000 tons with it this year. I also included a photo with our other F785RS on the back on the way home from a truck show this year. Regards, Skip

Gday everyone. Im not sure if this will work properly, but Ive tried to put up a picture of the dash layout of my 1967 R615RS.There should also be a shot of the dash panel on my F785RSRegards,Skip

It looks like an F model dash panel. The R models that came out here had 5 guages (2 large 3 small) in the panel under the steering wheel, and a smaller rectangle panel to the left of it with 2 more guages and a large pyro if it was ordered. The F models had all 7 guages in the one panel, and the pyro was halfway accross the dash. Ive never seen this panel in an R model before, it might be a very early one, like a 65 model. Skip

Thanks for the replies fellas. I had a mate tell me that it couldve been a cruiseliner setup, but I didnt think cruiseliners ever had a twin stick arrangement. Also this is on a 1970 model truck, and we didnt see cruiseliners out here until 1980. I will get a photo. I also have a quad box that I bought from a wrecker with the F model levers and it has a similar setup. I will try and get them posted soon. Thanks again everyone. Skip

Gday everyone. Ive got a 1970 model F785RS. It has an unusual gear stick lingage on it, but it looks genuine. It has a 9 spd roadranger in it now, but it did have a twin stick 6 spd in it from new. The stick/s stay with the cab when the cab is tilted. They are mounted into a ball socket arrangement in the floor, with the bottom part of the lever exposed to fit into a selector cup/slide which is bolted high up on the angled side of the cab gantry. All the other Australian F models Ive seen have a low mounted remote selector box mounted on the cab gantry. I will try and get a photo posted of it soon. Has anyone seen a linkage similar to this? Regards, Skip.

Mackdaddy you have one of the best examples of a V8 Valueliner that I have ever seen. I live about half an hour away from Glenns yard and have seen it for the last 15 or 20 years, and it has never looked more than a day old this whole time. It used to run accross to Perth once a week and it was always immaculate. Its just a credit to him. Good luck with it, it will be a show stopper over there.

Bigdogtrucker, parts for those engines are very hard to come by. I was still able to buy head gaskets from Mack USA through the head branch over here up until 2 years ago. Rocker cover gaskets are very hard to find. Exhaust manifiold gaskets were available also, and the intake gaskets are likean 865/6 ad were still available. I made a sump gasket and p/s pump gasket. The rear seal was available, the CR number was the same as a 14 litre Cummins but the sleeve was the problem. So there is the odd thing available, but its getting harder to find. I am looking at making up some gasket sets next year from the stuff Ive got here. It wont be until January or February but Im hoping to have a few sets available if you need.

Ive got a feeling they didnt have seals, I think they used thick o-rings with a cover over them. I thought it was an o-ring similar to a rocker oil feed on a 6 cylinder. How much oil is it burning? If it is not getting used much it will slobber fuel out into the exhaust ports and make a bit of a mess, which can make it look oily. Mine does that if I dont use it for a while. A good run with a load cleans mine right up. Keep it in mind that if you take the heads off it you can open a can of worms. When I did mine up all 4 heads were in good condition with no cracks, but the valves and guides were worn. I probably couldve got away with them as its only a show truck but I had a few parts available at the time so I put new gear in them.

There were a handful of mine spec trucks that came out here with 866s and quadboxes. They had to run synthetic oil in them as they would run too hot with mineral. But they were an exception to the rule. A 285 is about as much power and torque as you want to put in front of it if you are going to work it, and you would want to wind the torque screw in on the pump so it doesnt lug too much. A mate of mine had a 320 coolpower in his B61 and it handled it ok, but he looked after it, and he didnt work it day in day out.

How did you find an R719 in England? They are a rare truck. As mentioned above, drain oil first, undo the nuts on your PTO/pump assembly, remove PTO//pump assembly, then a gear adapter comes off behind it. You will be left with long studs. Best way is to remove studs and replace with short bolts to go through your cover. Skip

Its an early 865/6 pump. Probably has an 8VBB.... number on the tag. It wont fit the late 866 as it has a different front housing. The power tower on those engines is also slightly different to accommodate that style of mounting. This pump would also fit an END864C, but would have to be cut back abit, and probably calibrated to 280-300hp. Let me know how you go with it. If no one has already commited to it I would grabit if you were willing to ship it overseas. Regards, Skip

Gday everyone how are we? Has anyone out there got or seen pictures of the late END864 engines that were fitted with the Vee pump. I am thinking of putting one on the R615 Im putting together, as I want to drive it and do a bit of work with it. I figure it might be a safer option than the PSJ/M type rotary pump. I have an early ENDT865/6 pump with the longer snout on it, is that the same pump at a lower setting or is it a diifferent pump all together. Also, is the gearing the same for this pump? I believe the rotary pumps achieve the reduction through the angle drive. A lot of questions I know, but it would be interesting to know. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks everyone Skip

It is pretty basic on a 9 speed. There are only a couple of o-rings on it. The shift cylinder is on the underside of the cover and the fork is attached to it if you havent seen it already. If its jumping out of high then check the fork, they will wear pretty thin and will in turn burn out the discs in the clutch pack. Fairly common. If the cylinder is stuck and leaking air then you can get a kit from mack or gleemans. Skip

Gday Everyone. I have a quad box that is jumping out of 1st gear and I want to pull it apart and fix it up. Has anyone pulled one apart before? Is there anything I should be careful of? ie. Is there anything that is normally damaged/discarded like a bearing or different retainers? Ive got a Mack manual that gives basic instructions and thats it. Any suggestions or input woulod be appreciated. Thanks and Regards, Skip

Like old mate said, check the sensor on the side of the front cover for the cam. on RHS from memory. Other than that the harness is pretty well protected. If the ECM has had a jolt from a crash it would be worth hooking one up from another truck like mentioned earlier

I would be careful selling a block that hasnt been checked/reconditioned. I would get it crack tested, check the liner seats/heights and sealing areas, and tunnel bore it. You want to make sure the caps are a tight fit and the same with the liners in the counterbore. All this can cost a few dollars to do it properly, but at least you know that you're selling a good unit. If you dont want to go down that path then its only worth a few hundred dollars, and the sale is like a lottery. It sounds like youre on the right track getting the heads checked out. If you sell serviced parts, then no one can argue on price or condition. And if you sell rubbish, even if you didnt know the parts were bad, then people remember for a long time. Its not worth giving yourself a bad name. Good luck, let us know how you go. Skip