rolloffron

a company i used to work for had 15 of them,they were in roll-off trucks, 2 out of the 15 were problematic,but they were also the "spares" if you will, most of the trucks made it to 1 mil+ and were never touched for any major issues,a few of them were in the 30-40 thousand hour range. however,the company had a very strict maintenance schedule. oil change at 300 hours,coolant changed every 1200 hrs. one truck they pulled apart at 20,000 hours just have a look,and the lead mechanic said if he had a crystal ball he'd have left it alone,but one truck of the two problematic ones would spin bearings and head gaskets would go out. the other had injector and throttle issues. hope that helps you.

yeah it sure does, at one time there was 3 dealers in my town, now there is one, they don't seem to care at all,and it's sad because there is a lot of mack truck fleets in my area. some of the "big money" fleets around here have switched from k/w to volvo and it seems they are more interested in oil change and service for them. but that's how it goes i guess

put the truck in our shop,dark and put a light in between the charge air cooler and radiator and guess what.. plugged no light comes thru a good portion of radiator. angry doesn't even describe it. after some pestering i found out that they picked up the radiator, didn't look at it just threw it back together,swell, so the good news is i'm getting a new fan,a new water pump, because the bearing is loose now, the radiator is getting boiled and tested the k/w dealer is doin it and mack is paying for it. glad i only used the truck a little,wouldn't have thought they would put it in as is. so thank you guy's for the replies, and an infrared gun is definitely going to be in the toolbox now

think it's from a ch

prior to the original radiator failure,the fan would on occasion squeal, my first thought was belts,and they are tight,they don't appear "shiny"like they've been slipping,they look pretty good no cracks or like chaffing on edges. after mack put the used radiator in the truck the truck runs hot,it always ran at 180/185 and would reach maybe 200 pulling a heavy box up a long hill. now truck runs at 225/230 and if you even think about goin uphill empty even it's at 250. the shroud is on it and i do have a manual fan switch. i don't need to use it because the fan now is almost never off. every sensor on it has been replaced new. i'm not losing coolant or gaining oil, just putting that out there. i'm kinda starting to feel like i got a junkyard radiator that was full of stop leak, or my water pump is bad maybe? i don't have the dimensions of the original radiator to compare to this one,maybe it's just not big enough,mack changed all the brackets and mounts to put it in, i would like to think they would know whether it would work correctly

yes the cooler was in the bottom of old radiator.and no they couldn't make it fit this other radiator they said. every sensor on the engine has been replaced new. i had no choice but to run the truck today,as much as i'd rather not have. i'm pretty certain the fan is playing a big part, it chirps and squeals like mad.they told me it was fine. no way. i stayed on the flatlands today, and truck was hot ran 220 /235 best it cooled to was 200 the thermostat is also new. i was told by a tech from the k/w shop that as long as my cooler lines are together so the pump can circulate i should be fine, i'm hoping that's correct

it looks like an early great dane to me, but fruehauf was more prevalent back in them days,she looks old i'd say early 60's

I had to break down and bring my truck to my local mack/volvo dealer,the radiator blew,first I was told sure, we can fix it,3 days later it was no its junk,you need a new one, 4000 bucks and 12 weeks ahh no. so they get one from a junkyard and that's fine by me. only now there is no tranny cooler, it has an 18 speed mack tranny, and for some unknown reason the engine fan kicks on at about 120 degrees,doesn't shut of until it finally reaches 180. then if the a/c is on the fan kicks on and will not shut off unless you shut the a/c off.it has a junky horton fan that chirps like mad,that they were also told to fix,and didn't. the fan worked normal,aside from the chirping,prior to going there. so if some one can point me in the right direction as to what cooler i'll need and where to get it i'm all ears.also if theres a sensor or something for the fan to check,i tried bypassing the air/electric cut off switch but that didn't stop it either.it's a e-7 427 1995 engine. or is there a better option for a fan for it. i get no where with the dealer here they apparenly are only interested in selling volvo and severely over priced parts that they don't stock. the one (and i use this term loosely) tech told me flat out if it's not a volvo and new enough to where i can't plug in to it i have no clue how to fix it. are you kidding me. so i'll fix it myself,with hopefully some more great input from you people.

i had the same thing happen with our 05 granite, the fuse and relay panel on drivers side of firewall, was all green and gross inside,lost power to just about everything, i agree with the dirty milkman, try looking there.

i have a cl 700 w/ a 427 did the same thing,replaced fuel filters - no change, cleaned and greased that plug no change,change main fuel line to the pump from the tank and ran injector cleaner thru it, goes like a rocket now.hope that helps you

does anyone know if the doors from a granite will fit a cl. they sure look the same, the door stops are in a different spot other than that they look like they'd fit. i like the look of the doors and the mirror mounting, i can get a set of doors from a 04 granite and have a 95 cl.

you've probably painted it by now but i primed my truck with a sherman williams protective/ marine primer, that the refinery in my area uses, it's extremely tough and fights rust. it is called kem kromik universal its an alkylid metal primer and gets thinned with xylene and no the name isnt a typo or mis spelled it starts with a k . the paint i used sherman williams protective/marine coating high solids polyurethane black. extremely tough paint i have it on a hook lift roll-off and am off-road a lot and mostly gravel roads,washes off pretty easy and shines pretty nice,still not a mark in it,was done roughly 5 months ago, there is pic's of the truck in the gallery black cl700

well,here's what it'll do. you can have the shifter switch,"on" have the dash switch,"off" jake comes on like low-ish hit/miss. shifter switch,"on" dash switch on "low" jake works a steady low but every so often won't work at all. shifter switch "on" dash switch on "high" jake will come on everytime you release throttle, but some of the time it's full power, some times it's low,and some times it hit/miss. i've looked at the connections, changed the toggle switch on the shifter thinking that was bad,because it seemed that if i wiggled the switch it worked more often than not. i put a 20 amp switch on it maybe that's not enough? ive looked at the wires, the ground, as best as i can tell in the tangled mess of wire is solid and to the side of the head, could that be the cause of it, should the ground be to the frame instead. i'd like to put it back to original and get it working good, the hard part is every wire except the tangled splice mess is grey so that's really helpful,lol . the only thing that got better was after i changed the shifter switch is,when it's on it always comes on when you release the throttle, but it's a 50/50 shot whether it'll be on high. if one the solenoids was bad,how would you determine if it is? i can power them directly and they come on, also,when you have it on you can leave the toggle switch on, it will cut off at about 1100/1000 rpm,and idle normally. the only part i haven't looked at yet is behind the dash, could it be that simple,that the darn dash switch is bad,and causing the interference? i've been hesitant to pull dash out because after the tangled mess by the pump, i'm worried there'll be a rat's nest there too.

i'm not 100% sure that it is a jacobs brake,on the top of the engine there is 2 separate let's say "packs" they have 1 solenoid each, you could take each off individually it looks like. i haven't found any numbers or markings on them.the under those, is a plate maybe 2 in,thick. some where along the way somebody has had they're fingers in the wiring,down at the injector pump where the electronics for the throttle hook up there is 4 wires not counting the ground wire,the wires are a tangled mess,that go from 4 to 2 then 4 wires run up the side of the block up to top of engine then 2 are cut and the 2 remaining go to each of the solenoids.also for some reason there is an off on switch on the shifter. the switch on the dash has to be on high setting or it does nothing. like i said in one of my previous posts i'm very new to trying to fix my own trucks issuses,and i appreciate very much any comments,advice that i can get.

ok,i put power to each solenoid 1 at a time, each one will activate, if i put power to both at the same time, it sounds/runs the same as it does with only one powered,i don't know if the first owner did anything to it for maintenance, i know the second owner did no rebuild kit but he did tell me that the jake always seemed kinda weak so i guess maybe that would be the route to go? the truck has only been back out on the road full time since dec,prior to that, it sat for months at a time for about 4 years. it has just over 9,000 hrs on it. i should have mentioned that part right at the beginning. probably would have been more helpful.