peterj

Looks more like an old Carolina Freight carriers truck.. their colors were red with black fenders....

If it came out of a COE, it could be on the rear of the block, just below the head....

Single lights will work if they have 2 wires. If the have 1 wire and are grounded with the mount (screw) its a maybe. Some have a dioade bridge inside and will work either way...cheep ones no... Most duel lights ( combo tail and turn/brake) will not... You can get 1/2 to work but not both... Its realy a crap shoot.. buy 1 and test..............

Just some thoughts... I've done both, engine driven and elec driven. For my H67 mack, I bought a aftermarket underdash unit. The whole kit was less then $700. I got it from nosalgaair. I'll look up the correct name and phone if you need. They work with you on what kit units you get. I bought the largest (btu) under dash unit with heat and air. Then I got the largest condenser unit that fit the width mount of my radiator. The only thing you have to fab is the engine mount for the compresser. Kit included hoses, fittings, dryer, and everything you need...... You do have to cut and crimp the hoses . Works great, only problem was sealing all the weather stripping on the cab to keep the HOT air out..... Blows pleanty of cold air... I put a polor cub 9000btu roof unit on my travel trailer. It too works good, but ita going to be more trouble haveing to have a generator to mount and run... The amps you quote are locked rotor draw... it runs on about 8 amps @ 115v, and needs about 16-20 amps @ 115 starting.... I have more info on runnig that on batteries with an invertor, etc ... but that is way more complicated... Go with the engine driven unit... you may have to buy the compressor mount from the equip dealer if your not a fabricator... If you want more info I read this board 2 times a day... just ask........

Maybe I'm missing something here.... You don't have to join the ATHS or the ATCA to go to their shows. I do belong to both and subscribe to OTT, but I went to their shows before I even knew what they were. Even if you join , you don;t have to take part in the politics.... I know of 3 shows in NC, and there are more in va... If you want to start a club , go for it.... affiliate with either on not. Being in a larger group gets you help and publicty. Good luck

Plenty of Macks at South Bend, might be a few at MACKungie, pa!! lol

He goes to the Honesdale Pa show, and the Hartford Pa show. Probally more but those are the one I go to in pa.

I vote for L/N . They had trouble with them 10yr ago but the newer ones are great. If you get the right supplier they are cheep... I pay about $29 more then the amp rating, ie 120 anp $149... 160 anp $189. Watch Pete for sale flyer. My mack dealer (Cook Brs) meets there price. You can hook them up for pos or neg ground...

I'll try to set the stage and give some factoids.. When the B model came out, there were very few interstate highways. The 4 lanes then had stoplights. Speed limits were mostly 45 for trucks/55 cars. The first 60 mph limit that I can recall was the New Jersey Turnpike. Overdrives in those days were not for pulling. They were for come home empty, or running off of the hill to get speed for the next up hill. It takes about 200hp NET to pull a truck at 55-60 on a level road. These trucks only had 150-160 NET hp. Each set of gears reduced your horse power. A set of gears only transmits 85-90% of the input HP. Therefor you want the transmission to be running in direct where you are going to do most of your pulling. A dump or a heavy tractor would be geared lower in direct (both boxes) than a highway freight tractor, but have the same top speed. Also , its easyer on the drive line to have the reduction as close to the wheel as possible. Its better to have the reduction in the rear than the transmission... the driveshaft doesen't have to carry as much torque... If i've confused any one ask questions.... Some more factoids; In those days if you could climb the hills on the Pa turnpike in high range (not high gear) you had a big horse.. many times you were going 10-15 mph... Most trucks were running wide open all the time, including down hill..... except down mountains. See ya later................................

I had one on a pete- 3406- for over 1o yrs. work great. I have another unit to install on my H67, if spring ever gets here! If you have any trouble installing it , just call steve, and he can talk you through it. Any problems are almost always bad elec connections. Perfect grounds are a must! if

Right here, at Watts Mack,B model store....

Could be. Saw a mid 60's KW with a unit like that. It hand a 1 cyl gas engine driveing the AC compressor, mounted on the frame like that. It was a Thermo King.

You will need an air ride, double ossilating 5th wheel. Why, Look at the frame on a 5th wheel trailer. Most trucks use heavyer metal on the bumper than the RVs use for a frame! When you are side ways, making a turn, if the 5th wheel doesn't tilt to the side,the trailer frame has to give (bend).With a pickup, the truck spring will give a little, not on a big truck. The second thing is shock load. because of the stiff springs and heavy frame on the HD truck, any bumps go straight to the trailer. RV trailers use a standard 2" pin. They use a different 7 wire light plug. If you have to use a regular HD 5th wheel, you can get an air ride pin box for the trailer, but they are not cheep. It's not going to fall apart on the first trip, but it will not be long. Those trailers are made as cheep as possible. Some brake apart just being pulled by a pickup. They are going to brakup faster pulled by a class 8 truck. Pay now or pay later.................

If this just happened at the time it was rebuilt, something was not put back right. Check the oil pressure at the front and back of the block. Are they the same? Different? Does it have Jakes? A cracked or inproper installation of the jakes can cause low pressure. Did some one change oilpumps? The E and C oil pumps are the same but the E motor releaf spring and hold down are different. The E runs a lower pressure, but not that low. A good E will run 50-55 at 1800, a C should run 65.

The only other one from, south texas (lol), is Kenmex?

Dina?

These changes in available engines and cats withdrawel, have to do with the EPA and the way trucks have to be tested. I'll try to explain. Before an engine mfg could test and certify and engine and it would be approved . It didn't matter what truck it was put in. Now the teating and approval has to be for each truck. Each engine has to be checked in each truck. Way too much hassel for a engine mfg to test in 5 brands and 10 models. They would have to make 50 cert tests and approvels. You now see each truck brand going to thier own engines or a house brand. I don't know if I explained this clear enough, but you can get the general idea. Washington GOOBERS messing everything up again!!!!!!!!!

If the engine came from a COE, the model/sn number could be on the back of the block,just below the head..

Sometimes they put the schrader valve in strange places... My H , has it way up under the dash.. I didn't see it till I had the dash out, and you couldn't put a long air chuck on it anyway...

I'v been told that too, I'v never had any luck doing it. I usually put a quick connect in the wet tank drain, and plug on the shop hose... For a one time deal, a blow gun with a rubber tip, into the petcock.

My mechanick, playing. 94 tons net...

When we took the back off my 9sp , to convert to 13, the pins were laying in the bottom. We think it was caused by the driveshaft spline being FROZEN solid. Really had to be beaten to move it to get it out. It shifted up ok , but down, almost had to stop, the it had a LOUD clunk.

If they work right with the hand valve, but not the foot valve... your double check valve is sticking/bad. Where it is located on a R model , I don't know. On many old trucks, the stoplight switch screws into the check valve. Good luck!

I had one I put on a 3406 cat. Didn't make any more HP. It did make easyer start. It is just a fuel strainer, then a high cap elec pump, then another fuel filter, with another return line to the tank. It also has a fuel heater built in. I had trouble with the electric motor/pump freezing up. I don't think there worth it for the cat. The mack fuel system is a lot like the bosch on a mack. Increasing the transfer fuel pressure does NOT make more HP. The filters cost more too. If you had a old leaky fuel system it would hepl, but why not just fix your fuel sysstem, ie new hoses and fix suction leaks. Ihave one in the shed I took off... locked up motor!!! Put a new filter head and new lines on the truck , it ran just as well as it did with the FASS.... Thats just my opinion...YMMV..lol

I'd heard all the storys of the problems of getting the wheels off of macks. When I went to take the one off my H67, it was too easy. Hron button was already broken, and had been put on with silicone-- loose already. I took the nut off and soaked it with PB Blaster for a week. I tried the knees, and hitting under the spokes with wood and a hammer. No luck. Then I hit the little piece of metal, that sticks out close to the tube, under the wheel. 2 hits on one side, then when I hit the other side , it jumped right off. Luck?