vanscottbuilders

Nobody likes to tell someone else how to run their business,

but I'll give you a reply.

I see three things that you could improve on -

One: I'm not sure how you can possibly go into the equipment hauling business

without a trailer. Plan on a minimum of $50k., probably more for a new, inexpensive

detachable 30 ton unit. And, very soon, you'll need a drop-deck flat trailer and a 50 ton lowboy.

Two: Talk to your insurance man about insurance. That's what they're for.

Three: The tractor sounds adequate for most work up to 80,000 lbs., but the trailer

type and design plays a big part in the equation. Think about it.

I'm sticking my neck out a little bit here - but it sounds to me like you might want to

do some more homework before jumping in.

Trucking today is not the hook-em-up, move-em-out business that some people think

it is. New tractors are routinely over $100k, and new trailers can easily reach that mark too.

I don't need to tell you that fuel at $5.00/gallon and tires at $300 to $400/each are probably

not going to get any cheaper. (And by the way - in the lowboy business - you eat a lot of tires).

And then there is the government. Around every turn, some member of the DOT, State Police,

DEC, IRS, Fuel Apportionment and thousands of others are going to try to ruin your day.

Every business, no matter what kind, needs a business plan. A well thought out and written

document of how you plan to handle all of the known obstacles. Because there a thousand unknown

obstacles that will find you when you least expect it. The business plan is the Bible of any good business.

The capital sin of most new businessmen is too little planning.

Be Careful and Be Smart.

Paul Van Scott

Rusty,

If you are seriously looking for a project - do the homework first.

Determine which model you would like and go find it.

Then buy the best one you can find. Especially if you are not a

professional at antique restorations.

I have found that big trucks are substantially easier to do than

automobiles, and harder than old farm tractors.

Still they eat money at an alarming rate, especially if the project

requires a lot of repair in areas where one is not necessarily an expert.

The very best money spent is spent on the day you buy the truck.

In the case of Mack trucks - there is quite a bit of unrestored inventory

around the country. So finding something that really fits your needs is

quite likely. And belonging to this forum is really good.

Case in point -

I have a B-67 diesel tractor in my shop now that I probably should not have

purchased. But, it was my 1st Mack, and I was in a weak state of mind.

It was long before I joined this BMT site.

I will have in excess of ten thousand dollars in the cab alone on this truck,

before paint! Mostly because I need to hire most of my body welding work done.

The cab is now made up of three different cabs to get good sheet metal.

Mechanically the truck was OK. It still required the disassembly and rebuilding

of all systems and components. Another ten to fifteen thousand. And that assumes

that the engine is good.

Plus rubber and wheels, brakes, glass, wiring and plumbing etc., etc. More money!!

And to rub in a little salt - it's still a B-67. It could be the least desireable

of all the B models.

My intention is to use the truck as a shop truck with a 25t lowboy, so I don't really

care about the value - yet.

By contrast I have an H-63 that, other than needing an engine, is almost perfect for restoration.

No major cab surgery necessary. Much, much less frustrating. I have spare engines that are correct.

And I have an early R-600 that needs rocker panels and some light sheet metal work. It runs

and drives perfectly. Very inexpensive and a quick path to a fully restored truck.

In both of these cases, careful shopping netted pretty good trucks. And I am actually

looking forward to working on both trucks.

Compared to my B-67, they look like a cake walk.

So, my advice is - Don't jump on the 1st thing you find.

Do your homework, and be honest with yourself as to your limitations.

Then, buy accordingly.

Good Luck,

Paul Van Scott

Rusty,

You should talk to Kevin All at All Macks.

Kevin has a good selection of B models in all

shapes and sizes.

His business is fairly close to New York, too,

so transport shouldn't be too bad for you.

Check out his web page and contact info at

AllMacks.com

I think you'll be happy.

And welcome to the site.

Paul Van Scott

I'm a roadside repair moron -

I've always carried basic tools for the vehicle I'm driving.

Even my cars, motorcycles and light trucks and such.

Preventative maintenance has proven extremely valuable. too.

However, I really do like being prepared for trouble.

The single most important tool I carry has always been the credit card!

You can buy your way out of a lot of mechanical jams.

The key is deciding what it's really worth to you.

And can you make up the cost before the next predictable repair emergency?

People would actually pay good money to watch me try to use tools under a vehicle.

It's not a pretty sight.

Besides - I can usually make a little problem into a bigger one very quickly.

So my time is better spent resting up for the next leg of the trip.

Sounds lazy, and it might be. But I have broken a lot of stuff in my time by trying to fix something.

Seriously -

I have a lot of respect for all those drivers & owners who can truly repair their trucks on the side of the road.

They are few and far between.

There are some fantastic true stories about ingenious repairs and the use of different materials

to solve emergency situations. I think that creative talent is what really makes a driver a DRIVER.

My own OTR experience was as a company driver and mostly in new equipment.

Not too exciting from a breakdown perspective.

Now with the old trucks as a hobby, I don't take chances. I know those trucks inside and out.

And I (yes, even I) would be pretty comfortable fixing it. (I can see the mechanics laughing now)

Still I carry the credit card and a telephone. Just in case.

Paul Van Scott

Don't rule out a common carrier.

Quite often they are as cheap as anyone for a single pallet.

The engine will need to be able to be loaded by the shipper.

Good luck,

Paul Van Scott

Grant,

Don't keep us in suspense - Where did you find them?

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

Nice find Rob.

I've got a shift sequence plate for that transmission if you want,

when you get to that point.

Paul Van Scott

Mike is right.

And - if you want - you can get a new one from Barry.

Paul Van Scott

John,

The story in WOT reads very well indeed!

Congratulations to both you and to Matt and his crew.

Everyone outdid themselves with an outstanding project.

Will we get to see the truck at Batavia later this summer?

That would be a fairly short drive for you.

All the best.

Paul Van Scott

The R model rocker panels are still available from Mack, I believe,

as well as the door sill plates. At least for the early style R cab.

But I haven't found any cab corners either.

Maybe we could get Rob to make up a dozen or so for sale?

Paul Van Scott

Double Diamond,

I've been following this post for a few days, and I agree with everyone's

advice. The POR products are great, if used properly. And Rob is a

professional with a lot of experience.

The one bit of advice I think is missing, however, is -

Don't forget your Zip Wheel grinder and welded metal patches.

Over the years of doing vehicle restorations, and going to shows and

seeing vehicles with older restorations, I have seen a lot of projects that

probably looked really nice when they were done; but a few years later

after all the synthetic products have had a chance to loosen and shrink,

they don't look too good at all.

A metal patch properly done requires very little filler, if any. And it will

always look good. It can't shake loose, won't shrink, won't crack and is

done pretty easily. Small MIG welders have become very affordable, and

acetylene gas welding is accomplished pretty easily with practice.

Don't forget to treat the inner side of the repair against further rust.

This can be as simple as spraying some LPS-4 clinging oil on

the inner surface to seal out the oxygen. (Obviously after you're done welding)

Good Luck with your project.

Paul Van Scott

Hi Chris,

Can you figure out how to post some of the pictures here?

There are a number of regulars here that may be interested.

And, you might want to contact Matt Pfahl here on this site,

or by phone. Sorry, you'll have to Google up his name for a phone #.

(Try Pfahl's Mack Truck Restorations - that will at least get you close.)

Matt has some experience with the early trucks, and may be a likely

candidate for purchasing them.

Unfortunately, the cost of transport to the East coast may be a big factor.

Good Luck.

Paul Van Scott

On the question of brake shoe grades -

Do the softer (less expensive) brake shoe grades provide

any better stopping power, besides being rated for lighter gross weights?

And, do they wear faster because of that?

I know that for every day use, most guys use the top grades for long life.

But we, as hobbyists, really don't need that in most cases. We don't

usually pull any real weight, or put on any great mileage.

New brakes will probably outlast me in any of my old trucks.

Would softer brake shoes actually be better for us?

Paul Van Scott

Charlie Hatfield is most always right when he posts here.

And - he is again!

One truck at a time and you will get finished. Otherwise you won't. Period.

Sometimes we get carried away with ourselves and our hair-brained ideas.

Excellent advice Charlie.

Paul Van Scott

Speed,

The conversion would be a major project, and may not be do-able at all without major modifications.

Then there is the design limitations. That quadraplex weighs almost as much as your whole truck!

And, of course, the diesel is no lightweight either. So there might be some engineering considerations.

What you might do, however, is to consider putting your E cab and fenders on the B frame and drivetrain.

That could be cool, if it fits.

If you are just looking for more gears to shift - think about a lightweight auxiliary transmission to fit in your driveline.

Nothing like creative thinking!

Paul Van Scott

Rob,

That makes for a pretty good looking truck and trailer.

Paul Van Scott

With the cost of fuel today, you can plan on 2.50 to 3.00 per

loaded mile for hauling.

And if you have to pay someone to go both ways - well, you can do the math.

Getting the trucks home is becoming one of the biggest expenses of a restoration.

Good Luck!

Hey Garth,

There's nothing like those dry western trucks is there!

The sheet metal looks almost perfect.

Have Fun.

Paul Van Scott

Would you please send me the details on this load.

We have been moving equipment to Florida on lowboys

from New York State.

Although we are usually loaded home, we might be able to help,

if your time frame is not critical.

You can send info here, or a personal message to me on this site.

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

Aren't some of the DM800's longer in the hood?

With a set back front axle as I recall.

Seems that CP Ward had one in Rochester NY on a lowboy

for years. I'm certain that it is a steel hood.

It's definitely not the same as a long nose R model though.

Just my two cents...........

Paul Van Scott

Excellent stories - All really good.

But, remind me NEVER, EVER to fool with Rob's wife!!

Wow.

Paul Van Scott

John,

Texas is a great place to find an old Mack.

No rust! Unless it was used for fertilizer or farm duty.

The R model was prone to rusting pretty

badly in those areas of the country where we salt

our roads. Really nice ones are in short supply in the Northeast.

Thaddeus is right, a 237 or a 285 Maxidyne would make great

dependable power, and a simple five or six speed transmission

is all that is needed.

At least through 1967, you could get a normally aspirated END-711,

which is a 205 hp diesel. It's got a mixed reputation for dependability.

Apparently it worked quite well in city service, and not so good on long hauls.

Read the old posts and forums on BMT to learn where the various identification

numbers are located on the frame, engine, transmission and rear axles.

There seems to be an infinite number of combinations of engines, transmissions

and particularly rear end ratios. Mack, perhaps more than any other manufacturer,

understood the value of gearing a truck to a particular task.

The wheels are really your preference. A lot of the western

trucks had Budd wheels originally. Switching from Daytons to Budds is

probably not worth it, however. And, as an East coast person, I like the Daytons.

An R-600 or an R-700 would suit you well. It would be very cool

if you could find a long nose, tandem axle tractor. But, for your 1st

project truck, you might want to avoid the older Mack V-8 diesels

that might have been in those long nose trucks. Parts are getting rare.

Good luck, and please keep us posted.

Paul Van Scott

I like the sounds of that scooter !!

Welcome back among the living.

Paul Van Scott

Welcome to BMT.

With your experience and family history, you will be

a real good addition here.

Paul Van Scott

A DEAD CAT ????

THAT'S GOT ME LAUGHING GLENN.

Anyway - Glenn's right, if you're not up on a compression stroke,

you need to find the obstruction before you go any farther.

The injectors are the easiest place to start. And the fix is the easiest to do.

Then it gets more difficult from there.

Good Luck,

Paul Van Scott