vanscottbuilders

Yeah - two BIG people.

Craig, Someone here will know a lot more about the older Macks than I do, but to get you started, why don't you contact Matt Pfahl (Connecticut I think), or Roy Moxley (Maryland) as both shops have completed a number of the pre-war Macks. Matt will have a lot of parts, and a lot of info. If you really want to do some homework, I would try to find Don Hosenfeld at Manitou/Dolomite stone products in Rochester, NY. (585)381-7010 MAIN OFFICE NUMBER) Don is a shop manager there, and was totally responsible for the award winning restoration of the company's AC Mack. Don's a real nice guy, and I'm sure he can help you out. Keep us posted. Paul Van Scott

Those guys don't seem to be too phased by the Easter Bunny!! In fact, they are looking pretty relaxed. Paul VS

I hate it when the best plan I have goes down the drain! Have a good week. Paul VS

Thanks guys. Picture soon, I promise. Tom you will love the new tubeless radial ride. And the price is about as right as right gets. Be nice on the steer axle too. If you dare to push your luck! Too bad about the speed though. Ah well - guess I'll have to throw you a rope on the way by. PVS

Jay, It would make a big difference to someone if they could load both ways, obviously. But, even with fuel costs going crazy, I think you can still hire a truck for less than 2.00/mile one way. And a single axle B or R Mack is less than a trailer load - which might help, if someone could fill out the load. Or - you can buy an old one that runs and drives. I'll send pics ASAP. Paul Van Scott

I have had great results with epoxy primer and a good chassis paint over the primer. This has been my finish of choice for a number of automobile restorations. It is simple and long lasting, if applied over a sandblasted and cleaned surface. Some late model Class 8 trucks have factory applied powder coated frames. (Peterbilt is one I believe). If you take a look, you will see good examples of why not to powder coat the frame. The moisture that accumulates behind the powder coating lifts the finish in large sheets, probably because the powder finish has a pretty strong surface strength and the finish doesn't fracture easily; whereas the moisture that accumulates under paint will typically be absorbed into the paint itself and evaporated into the air, or it might lift only a small paint chip, rather than a large sheet of finish. And, as an economical benefit, you can apply the paint and primer yourself. Just something to consider. There isn't really a right or a wrong. Preparation is the underlying key to a successful frame finish, no matter what you use. Keep us posted. Paul Van Scott

Good News - Picked up my rebuilt rear axle yesterday and brought it in the shop. Then I organized all of the big pieces so I can begin reassembling the frame and suspension, and get this whole unit back on wheels. The snow's melting and it's warming up, which means that time's running out. Gotta get moving! Thought I was going to buy a new set of 12.00 x 22.5 drive tires - but now with all brand new stock length wheel studs, I'm not so sure. The additional height of the 12.00 tires would be nice, but with the overdrive duplex and the higher ratio rear end - it probably isn't necessary. To use the 12.00 rubber, I would need to use a longer wheel stud and a wider wheel spacer. If I do the math, with the gears, transmission and 11.00 (normal) size rubber, it's built for 76 mph, which is faster than the old truck should go anyway. And a whole lot faster than the old driver should even think about. Got the brake linings straightened out, after a good amount of sanding on the cast brake shoes. Used a wide belt sanding machine with a flat platen and an adjustable tool stop, so I could hold a perfect 90 degree angle and get the shoe truly flat. Worked good.

In New York it is now over $100.00 fine and two points on the license if they catch you talking on a cell phone and driving. I'm not sure what they would do if they caught me with a camera while driving. Jail for sure!! Paul VS

OUCH!! Just a short message from the trailer tires and your boss.

Actually Old Macks (Dennis Meahan) and All Macks (Kevin All) are two different businesses - but Old Macks is a good choice too. Good Luck - keep us posted. Paul Van Scott

Where are you located? And do you want a flat panel or a concave panel. If you were in the east - I would try Kevin All at AllMacks.com. I know he has a great selection of both concave and flat panels. Also you might try B61Fred here at BMT. He has several cabs with decent back panels in Indiana. If you are more west - you could try Packer also here at BMT. Not sure what his inventory looks like - but he's fun to talk to anyway! Good Luck, Paul Van Scott

Rich, I'll send you a BMT message, so the forum can get back to welcoming new folks. Paul Van Scott

Rich, My office is in Palmyra, and the truck shop is in Fishers. Do you have any projects underway now? Paul Van Scott

Cab surgery doing quite well. Cut off the bottom 3" of the back panel that I am using and welded in new metal. rather than try to make the hundred or so rivet holes from the original look good. Pretty neat fix, if I do say so myself. Got both of the knee action shock absorbers working nice today, so I can rehang the front axle starting tomorrow. Then the radiator support frame, steering column and clutch linkage. Soon I'll be blowing black smoke all over Tom's Peterbilt when I scream past! (As long as he's asleep by the side of the road.)

So I gather you got the job operating the dozer Joe? How is your family doing? Paul VS

Tom, I didn't get to the rib project yet - but I did cook a chicken tonite in a clay pot. I've used the clay pot (Romertopf) quite a lot - first time for a whole chicken though. No grease, real moist and cooks fast. Excellent. Paul VS

It isn't going to change until we all do something!! This message brought to you by your local preacher. Paul Van Scott

It's true - no matter what the size the shop - it will be too small sometime. So the building budget is probably the number one concern. A 12' wide bay is a pretty good width for one vehicle. A 40' width gives you three wide pretty well. Length is minimal at 40', and the longer the better. Especially if you want to put a trailer inside. We have a 40' x 78' area, and we can comfortably work on four large road tractors with plenty of "elbow room". Or we can back a trailer inside in the center for loading/unloading or servicing. There is a single 12' x 16' high overhead door for access. It's fine for a hobby shop. I would consider the height as very important. Shortly after we moved into the shop we now have, we had the opportunity to get a brand new four post bridge crane. Luckily we had the required 20' ceiling height. Everthing inside is now moved with the crane and a forklift. And we're real spoiled. So consider how you are going to move the pieces you need to move. Everything on these trucks is heavy. Moving parts and big pieces conveniently makes the job a lot more pleasant. You might also consider what you are going to do in the building - painting, welding, running engines, etc., and account for the special conditions as best you can. The air gets pretty thick quick when firing up one of these old diesels. Venting should also be a concern. We don't have any, and I sure do wish we did. If I were to design and build a smaller shop for one truck at a time, I would think about something between 28' and 32' wide and a 16' eave height, at least. 40' would be the length, if space allowed. Then I would put open side "lean-to" sheds along each side of the building, to help with the too tall look, and to gain the covered storage space outside. The lean-to's could have a 10' eave height and about a 12' width, which would allow most B model size trucks to park under. Certainly would allow any car, pick-up or tractor to be stored there. And great firewood storage. And boat storage etc, etc. Just some ideas - Good Luck with your project. Paul Van Scott

Hi guys - welcome to BMT. Rich - where in Central NY are you? Paul Van Scott

I knew I could count on you! Thanks, Pul VS

Now I know why you were home today. Try not to bump into anything walking into the eye doctor's office tomorrow. Look like the professional you are! Hey - I have been thinking about cooking some ribs over charcoal - never done them before. Got any secrets? Thanks, Paul VS

It's still here! The Peterbilt that wouldn't leave!! Apparently the prospective buyer has not been able to finalize his lease with Landstar, so we have given him a couple of days to put his job in order. Husband & wife did fly up from Oklahoma to look it over and liked what they saw, but we just couldn't close the sale. There is a good possibility that we will be re-listing the truck for sale shortly. Anyway, Tom what are you doing home today? Paul VS

Tom, I thought the same thing - pretty handy to be able to see out that window when blind side backing. Do you use an electric right mirror too? That's also handy - we use them on the heavy tractors, along with extendable mirrors to see around some of the fat loads. I didn't how common the electric mirrors were today.

Tom, I would like to make one good long trip in this 379. It just sems like a comfortable way to ride. But - I SURE DO HOPE THAT IT ENJOYS IT'S NEW HOME!! Joe, I have committed both the B-67 and my H-63 to the Watt's Mack show in September. The intent is to drive the B with the lowboy, and put the H on the trailer. The H will not be running, or even under resto at that point. If I get real ambitious, I might get the R-600 ready, and drive that instead, with both of the others on the trailer. The R needs rockers and paint, and it's ready to go. Paul VS