Phyrphighter

1935 Chevrolet Fire Truck - just less than 20 feet long, 80 inches wide, 87 inches high approx 7000 lbs. Looking for an enclosed haul from Belle Plaine, MN to Liverpool, NY. Ready Now

Name: Mack Type 80 LS (1942) Date Added: 05 August 2008 - 04:55 AM Owner: phyrphighter Short Description: 1942 Mack 80 LS Fire pumper 80 LS 1084. Originally East Syracuse, NY Engine 1 750 GPM Hale ZD Pump View Vehicle

Hello all, I am attempting to remove the gauges from the dash of my 1942 LS type 80 pumper to have them refurbished. The only thing holding that up right now is I cannot figure out how to remove the copper line that goes from near the head of the engine to the back of the "temp" gauge. When I loosen the nut on the back of the gauge, the line does not to seem to come out and the entire gauge is loose within the mount. On the engine end there seems to be two things I can put a wrench on at the sender- when I loosen the smaller one, I still cannot seem to pull the copper line free of the engine. When I loosen the larger one, I end up with the entire sending unit out of the engine ( and antifreeze comming out). Is there a way to remove this sending unit at the back of the gauge ? Barry Lasky

Stopped at my local NAPA yesterday and found that mine has the Rotella oils available in single weight (gallons) and on the shelf.

Thanks for all the suggestions and information. I did get the Clutch done in my garage with the help of a friend ( I should say GOOD friend cause nothing is lightweight in that job !) It was reletively problem free working on my concrete garage floor with a good tranny jack. I bought a clutch alignment tool (plastic) that made that part a breeze. It took a little patients to get everything lined up to put it back in but we got it, its all adjusted and working well ! Barry (L) AKA Phyrphighter

I also use hagerty and pay around $115 a year in Central NY

My 42 Mack 80 LS works exactly as you suspect. I turn on the battery with one switch then there are two that pull out for the ignition ( 1 for each of the two ignition systems) Over each of these pull out ignition switches is a round red bezel that lights up when you pull out the switch below it indicating that paticular ignition is on. You may be on the right track thinking that one of the switches is "stuck" in the on position. I do notice that if my rig is running on one ignition, it sounds like it runs a little different when I pull out the other switch. Barry

Thanks for the info so far guys. My garage does have a concrete floor and I have access to a 2000lb tranny jack ..... I also have both the Mack and the Motors manuals.... I have talked to a friend at a local truck garage here and he is checking to see if his garage will do it. but I really think I may be able to do it myself. Gonna get the clutch ordered at least. Does the throwout bearing need to be pressed off ?? if so - I may have an issue .

Hello All ! I have a 42 LS80. The clutch is on the end of its servicable life. I have located a remanufactured clutch and pressure plate for just over $500.00. Sound fair ?? also - have any of you changed one of these? I am mechanically handy but I am not sure if i should attempt this or find someone to do it for me. Thanks Barry

Hello All, First - thanks for previous help from the people here. I have figured out that I had two problems that kept me from getting my 1942 80 LS into pump gear. One was a linkage adjustment so that it would come out of prime when put into pump. The other problem that I still have is that the vacuum cylinder that should pull the clutch out when you are changing the lever from "prime" to "pump" and so on is leaking and needs to be replaced or rebuilt. I have 18 inches of vaccum at the connection to the cylinder so I know that it is leaking. Does anyone know where to find one or get one repaired? Is it possible to do myself? In the parts list this is part # 45 RJ 21 Pump Shift Booster Cylinder. Thanks Barry

I have a recently aquired 1942 Mack LS type 80 with vacuum assisted brakes. While investigating why this rig was so hard to stop I have found that I am missing the linkage that runs from the vacuum assist cylinder near the rear of my truck to the “power lever” near the master cylinder. Do you have – or do you know where I might find this linkage ? Also - Does anyone have or rebuild the vacuum components if i find they are unusable ? Finding the linkage is Job 1. I have attached a diagram showing what I need.

Just an update to my problem finding parts for my Stromberg carburetor that goes on my 1942 Mack 80LS pumper. Although I never did find parts, I found somone to rebuild the carb for me for just over $325.00. I know it might not sound like a bargin but that only other solution I foud was a guy that would sell me a rebuild kit for $400 or a replacement carb for $1500 - $1800. I sent my carb to a place called Daytona Parts. When I talked to them on the phone they said that they make gaskets and seals by hand when necessary. However they did ir the carb came back looking like brand new and it works great. It took about a month for me to get it back. If anyone else gets into a simialr bind with a carburetor, don't hesitate to check www.daytonaparts.com It worked out well for me. Barry

Hello There, I am the new owner of a 1942 Mack 80 LS. I have some work ahead of me but it's running and I was able to drive it 10 miles to get it home. I have beena firefighter for a number of years but I am not sure that I am engaging this pump correctly. (Hale Z-D) A plate in the rig says to pump in fourth gear. I start off with the rig in neutral - push in the clutch and move the lever that is left of the drivers seat. Then I put the trans. in fourth gear and let out the clutch. I then go to the panel on the side of the rig that has a lever with "Prime" and "Pump" - (I think neutral too) When I move the lever to "Prime" The primer pump runs and sounds a lot like those of all the rigs I have worked on. Then I attempt to move the lever to "Pump" as I get to pump The clutch pedal in the cab goes to the floor (I believe pulled by a vacuum cylinder under the rig) . The pump does not seem to turn with the clutch to the floor. A few times I increased the RPM's using the gas pedal. I believe this created a drop in vacuum allowing the clutch pedal to come out. Each time I have done this there is an enormous amount of grinding and squealing of gears but I don't think the pump is turning. Am I not doing this correctly - or is something hanging up or not engaging correctly in the system Thanks for any help you can offer Barry Lasky

Hi Everyone, My 1942 LS Fire Truck ( 80 open cab) has a Stromberg SF-5 Carb. Does anyone know where I could get the parts to rebuild this carb or maybe somone that could rebuild it. I am very interested in getting it done one way or another. My truck has an EP 611 gasoline engine. Barry

Thanks, Cal was nice but we couldn't locate something for this carb. I did have one reply that said they could sell me a rebuild kit.... Just a kit for $400.00. Makes me kind of wish I kept my ford fire truck and let this one go. Last kit for that was $21.00 Oh well, live and learn. Thank you for your suggestions. Barry