steve s.

And Happy New Year to you Paul. You are making good progress. I'm curious about your chassis preparation. Did you do any abrasive blasting or sanding/grinding/wire brushing ? What is the rust stop/primer product you used ? The photo of the chassis in red primer looks real good. On the other hand, the engine looks pretty bad. Do you plan to install cylinder sleeves? Is that why you are looking for standard size pistons? Steve

In Pennsylvania, a truck 25 years or older is eligble for an antique license. The one time cost is $75, but you are restricted to using the vehicle only for parades, club events, and the like. Hauling equipment is not allowed. Pulling a trailer is permitted by the state, but some antique vehicle insurers do not allow it, some do. If your insurance carrier does not object you can haul antique trucks to shows with a truck licensed as an antique. The process of getting an antique license can be tricky, in addition to the paperwork, you have to submit six photos, and then some clerk decides if your truck is worthy of an antique plate or not ( at least it seems that way ) the bottom line is : if your truck is unmodified and has a good paint job it will probably pass the test. Forget the KW, go for the R model, and good luck. Steve

Jeremy, The engine is tilted to the side to give it a lower profile in short BBC trucks like the B 67, or C models. It was also used in MB and F model cabovers for the same reason. I have a B 61 that had a tilted engine installed and I think it really makes repair work more difficult; less room between the engine and the frame on the injection pump side, and generally awkward to work on the bottom of the engine at an angle. Of course if you don't need to work on the engine it doesn't matter. As for a B 57 being more valuable than a B 61, that's anybodys guess, if it's in the shape you want at a price you like, just buy it. Steve

It looks to me like your engine is either a 673 P, or a 711, judging by the split intake. Maybe some one knows better. Another basic thing to keep in mind is that even number models were built with gas engines (B 42, B 60, etc. ) and diesel equipped trucks had odd numbers ( B 61, B73, etc. ). A lot of gas engines were replaced in later years with diesels, so like Freightrain says, the serial number may not tell the whole story. There is also some meaning to the letters following the first letters in your serial number. For example an S indicates a tandem drive, an L indicates Lightweight components, an X indicates an extra heavy duty chassis and so on. What is your serial number ? Steve.

Greg, You mention using lead substitute in your A, which is fine, but I think if you do some research you'll probably find that gasoline did not contain any lead when your truck was built. Lead became a popular additive in the late fifties, mainly for use with the high compression engines of the day. It could be that oil had no ZDP additves when your truck was built either. Steve.

Ossablt, The numbers you list are for the dual reduction rear axle carriers, which could have been used in a few different bogies. My service manual shows CRDP 92 & CRD 93 used in the SWD 57 series bogie rated at 38,000 lbs, the SWD 571, SWD 572, Swd 573 series bogies rated at 40,000 lbs. The 40,000lb models differ by having presed or cast steel housing, and or bronze or rubber trunnion bushings.. As for build sheets, I have them for three trucks, all three are different, and none show the axle weight ratings. The bogie numbers are found in different places on all three also.

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Engine2, I sympathize with you. Personally, I would not go directly to the federal regulations. I would first get very familiar with the wording of the law to be sure that there was no provision made to allow for "special vehicles" . If no such provision was found, I would go to whatever lengths necessary to prove that my antique truck was not a commercial vehicle. The simple answer to one question should ( HA HA ) prove your point.... Is the vehicle used in any way to conduct commerce ? Another question would be... Is the vehicle licensed by gross weight ? if not, then it should not be subject to inspection laws based on its original GVW. I know that things are never that simple with politicians or bureaucrats, But if you are familiar with your states definitions of " commercial vehicle" and the new law you will probably know more than the person telling you that you need to be treated as a commercial vehicle. If you have the will to battle , you will have a lot of learning to do, and the outcome is not guaranteed, But personally, I would raise hell and make myself well known before I'd pay someone $100 plus to inspect my antiques. Yes it takes a lot of work, but if we are ever going to slow the pace of people trying to cram nonsense down our throats, we will have to work long and hard. While we are busy living our lives, there are people working around the clock deciding what they think is best for us and they seem to be making "progress "at an alarming rate. Good Luck, Steve

Ossablt, I don't think you can tell from the build sheet. But the axle numbers from the build sheet can be looked up in the service manual to find the weight ratings. Do you have your axle / bogie numbers ?

Paul, You may have already done this, but I looked through some back issue of Wheels of Time, and found two trucks that are close, but might not be just what you want. The first is a 1929 Six Speed Special in Kansas 620-662-3296, it has the early six speed sheet metal, not the A series styling of 1930 +. The second is in the latest issue, a 1924 model 63, a larger truck, in PA , 717-487-2499. I'm guessing that you are looking for something like a " Red Baby " or a truck with similar sheet metal. I have seen a couple for sale over the past couple of years, but of course I can't think of where they were now, but I will keep you in mind. Have you tried a post on the early IHC website ? Good luck in your search. Steve

Mackniac, I misspelled the name,it is Pieter78, and this is the address : http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php? autocom=gallery&req=user&user=794&op=view_album&album=610 if it helps. The title is : Mack trucks from Haukes Kekerdom The Netherlands. Good luck

Mackniac, Look in the gallery, pietrer78 has a bunch of photos you may be interested in, from the Netherlands.

Ossablt, S is a tandem axle ST is a tandem axle tractor LST ia a lightweight tandem axle tractor Steve

PaulBrook, I have little to offer you other than encouragement. I have great respect for those people that can take something in the condition of your Mack and turn it back into a respectable antique. To buy this vehicle in the USA sight unseen and ship it across the ocean puts you into a very small and elite group of such people. When the day finally comes that you take your first drive in your Mack, you will have done more to earn your sense of accomplishment than most. Your website is very interesting and well documented. I'll make a point of checking back to see how things are progressing. I wish you the best of luck . Steve

Thanks guys. That is the water pump I have Glenn, and HK I think you are right , somebody just stuck in the engine they had. But it makes maintenance so much more of a pain in the neck I wonder why they did it that way. If I do put this engine in a different truck it will be straight up . Steve

I have a 673 NA diesel in a B 613 (not original, I know ) that was installed on a slant, like you would see in a B 67 or a C model. I am preparing to overhaul this engine and maybe put it in a different truck. Is there any reason that it can't be mounted straight up ? Is it as simple as rotating it one bolt hole clockwise at the bell housing ? The oil pan and pump appear to be the same as in a B 61 I have that is mounted straight up. The engine leans to the passenger side and makes working on the injection pump or air compressor more challenging. I even had to drill a hole through the firewall to get the last push rod out before removing the back cylinder head. Does anyone have experience with this ? Thank you and Happy New Year to All. Steve

Well there not as strong as I was Hoping. but that'll do. there 5.77 ratios, and far as the tranny, it says Its DIRECT in 5th Direct, but in 5th Hi-split its .85 final. so guessing its an overdrive tranny. . Robert, All of the compound boxes have an overdrive gear, but the main box could also have an overdrive in fifth, which yours does not. So technically you have a direct transmission. Steve

Robert, SWD57 is a 38,000 lb bogie. It sounds like you have a transmission that is direct in 5th. The build sheet should tell you what model you have. There are some good road speed calculators on the web that will answer all your gear/ rpm/ tire size questions, do a search and find one you like. Steve

Jakebrake, Like Glenn said some one will probably need that rotary injection pump for parts and I might just be the guy. If you decide to change over to the APE pump and injectors, let me know if you want to part with the PSJ. Thanks . Steve

Rusty , Try looking here - http://www.oldmacksrus.com/registry.htm for serial numbers close to yours to get some idea of your trucks year. Remember that each model had its own series of serial numbers . Steve

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Eagle Eye, The background history of the problem is in an earlier post with a similar title, if your interested. I'm glad to hear your opinion . The air compressor was one of the first things I checked - took off the bottom plate on the crankcase - but everything looked ok so I didn't go any further, but I could do more to be totally sure it is not binding up, and since it would be an easier task than my other possibilities, maybe I'd better do that next. Thanks Steve.

Rob- the starter has been out through the whole process so far, I kind of wish that was the problem. Glenn- Yes I have tried my tests with the clutch disengaged, just to eliminate it as a source of trouble. As for the rods, I took each cap off one at a time , pushed the rod up just enough to clear the crank, and tried with my bar to turn the flywheel. I am now sure that none of the rod/piston assemblies is the cause of the problem. I did see in my manual about the connecting rod side clearance you mention, but it seemed to me that it would not be a critical thing on an old worn engine, thinking that the rod would find its own "spot". But I will follow your advise and set it with feelers when I torque it up. I do have the cover off the front of the inj. pump gear an I will check for back lash. Thanks again, Steve

Hello again, This is a follow up on my 673 diesel that broke down in my garage and will only turn a bit more than a 1/4 turn, back and forth but no more. I've been working on it but still have not found the problem. As was suggested earlier I pulled the injectors, and found no anti freeze. I removed the rocker assemblies, no stuck valves . Pulled the pan (no sign of anti freeze or metal in the oil or pan) , Pulled the main and rod bearing caps one at a time , still won't turn more than that 1/4 turn or so. Oil pump is ok, tappets are all free to move with the rockers off. cam looks good, I don't see any metal chips or hear any noise when trying to turn it. Yes, the transmission gears are in neutral and I tried all of this with the clutch pedal in, just in case. The fan belts are off too. The process of elimination ,I think, tells me that what's left is the timing gears, the injection pump or some freak thing like a loose bolt stuck somewhere it doesn't belong ( like the flywheel ? ) . I'm kind of leaning toward the inj. pump, but I can't convince myself . I really don't look forward to pulling the radiator and the timing cover, or for that matter the injection pump ( this engine is not the original, it is a "leaner " tilted to the inj. pump side like a B 67 - not much room to work in ) , so if you have any thoughts on which of these jobs you'd do first, or maybe if I'm overlooking something, I'd appreciate your input. Thanks , Steve