Dalton1

I forgot about that, most of the snow fighter trucks had an air switch on the dash to flip a shutter in the air cleaner to pull air from under the hood though a 2nd tube in sub zero weather, my '81 RD had this option and even my '07 Granite still does. Pretty sure those setups only used one filter though not 2 like the tip turbine.

The second tube went to the tip turbine on certain engines, the 300+ used them and I believe a few others as well. It's a sort of blower that is powered by a bleed of compressed air from the turbo to blow cool air over an engine mounted intercooler.

My last one the inner frame rusted all the way through, been using wool wax coating on this one regularly, seems to make a big difference.

Yes, surprisingly still very tight though

Looks like the Atro kit SK62-50340 has the correct pads for my truck and probably all the other plow guys that run a former New York DOT CV713

Awesome thank you, should be able to get the ones I need now. Looks like there the same as a 44k but still double checking that.

I have tried to get part #s in the past from O'Conner and McDivitt in Manchester (whos since sold off there Mack side)but neither liked to give out part numbers. Maybe I'm just not getting the right parts guy. I was under the impression the Atros would out last the OE ones but I'd be interested to hear what you guys recommend, looking to get whatever works best and last the longest.

That would be awesome, thanks! Last 6 is 067250, I can get the whole vin tomorrow if you need it. Was definitely planning on new hardware, nothing comes apart easy on plow trucks, will check those other things as well.

I need to replace the insulator pads on my 07 CV713 with 46k rears, I was looking at the Atro polyurethane ones but I'm not sure which ones fit my truck, my mack dealer won't give out part numbers. Are the 44k pads the same as the 46k ones?anyone know what the correct part number would be for my truck? Thanks!

Sold the truck today to someone that's going to add it to there collection. At least it's safe from the crusher for a while longer.

Thinking about selling this 1966ish F715 cabover has a ENDD 864 V8 with a triplex transmission. Truck is very rough, engine turns over with air starter but doesn't run. Located in southern Maine Any ideas as to what it might be worth if anything?

I believe Mack specs 10-30 psi for hot idle, my 96 E7 only had 10-12psi, bumped the idle to 625 where it should be and it came up to 18-20psi

If its a grey engine he's probably referring to the yellow lighting bolt and has some sort of malfunction that needs attention, especially if he's loosing power. Can check for blink codes to figure it out if a scan tool isn't handy.

That's from last winter, I wish the frame was as clean as the dash and I'd still have that truck.

Here's Cass helping me keep the roads clear

Going good up here, getting ready for our first snow storm tomorrow.

Thought I would update the post, finally got the engine brake fixed, ended up be a file in the computer adjusted to make it work the way it was for some reason, local dealer was able to reprogram to work the way its supposed to and no issues now. I was also excited to find out they were able adjust the power while it was there from 335 to 400, definitely pulls better now.

Just to update. I swapped the fluid with Mack GOJ plus 75-90, noise is gone and seems to shift a bit easier as well. I appreciate everyone's guidance!

Thanks for all the input, I'll try changing the fluid first. I changed the fluid when I bought the truck, put in regular 50w then the noise started about 3k miles later, drained it to check for damage and refilled with syn 50w as that is what I was under the impression it required at the time. Will drain it and put in mack goj plus 75-90 Hopefully I didn't ruin my transmission trying to be proactive

Checked all the bell housing bolts, I was able to tighten 4 of them half turn or better, one is stripped. Rest were tight. Will try to repair the stripped one asap. Seemed to make the noise quieter but definitely not gone but only had time for a quick test drive. Transmission was replaced by previous owner and it was 5 years ago, not sure I would be covered under those circumstances.

Will check the bell housing bolts in the morning, that would make a lot of sense. Whoever installed the transmission left about half the bolts in the floor plate out, hydraulic lines a mess and rear yoke bolt loose so I wouldn't be surprised. Thanks

Is there a way to check or clear the oil galleys? Also if it makes any difference its mack reman with approximately 20k miles on it.

Ride hight shouldn't be an issue, it's on camelback. Diff fluids looked good and are now new. I realize 4th/5th and 9th/10 are the same gears, just trying to best describe the issue. Seems odd the noise will come and go, I would think if something was failing the noise would be consistent.

I have a 07 CV713 with a T310 10 speed transmission, it recently started making a bit of a growling noise in 4/5 and 9/10, noise is faint in 4th gets louder in 5th and gets louder the higher the RPMs get. As soon as I shift to high range in 6th the noise completely goes away till 9th where it starts up again and worse in 10th. Odd thing is the noise comes and goes, sometimes I'll be driving 55mph in 10th and the noise will suddenly come and go. So for I have changed oil using 50w synthetic trans fluid. There was some very fine metal on the magnets, torqued rear yoke bolt, (have had the loosen up before causing range shift issues) check range fork actuator o rings as well as looked under rear top cover, looked ok. Any ideas where to look next would be greatly appreciated!

Does any have any idea what this box is for or if it's required? It was plugged in line with the instrument cluster wiring on my 07 CV713. Just has one additional wire going to ground. I removed it and it fixed an issue with my fuel gauge. Everything else works normal without. There in no markings or part numbers other than one for the bare aluminum box itself.