ranchhopper

I think mack is the only one who has the drop center on the front axle beam and the rears should be mack if they have the toploader carrier on the rear axle. Do a lot of research Im having to swap a whole different front axle beam under my truck just to go to hub piloted front wheels best way to know what you need is to get the bearing numbers that are in the existing hubs to know what will interchange with your axles.

I thought that's what it was but I wanted to sound like I knew what I was talking about when I called for one.

This is some kind of air pressure sending unit I cant find it in the parts book when the truck is aired up it leaks lots of air out of the lower part where the wire connector is. It is located in the cab on the firewall just behind the clutch pedal it really leaks a lot of air has anyone tried to fix one of these?

I have been pretty good at bringing some pretty ratty looking wheels back to like new I might try some CLR on the back of them as a test to see if the solution lifts the concrete its a mild acid.

Got two wheels today traded them for my spare army truck parts I no longer need have eight more coming soon worked out great trading all the spare parts I no longer need for a full set of wheels at no cost to me. They came off a ready mix truck I have to figure what I can use to get the concrete spatters off them before I start to re polish them any one have any suggestions.

They make pipe and everything else all winter that's why the big stockpiles of sand and gravel are in the yard now.

I have all winter off welch just laid off the gravel hauling crew.

Check the harmonic balancer it may be ready to come apart I know in GM engines a bad harmonic balancer sounds like a rod or fuel knock.

He still hasn't knocked the chip off his shoulder yet that he has against our country there is more to come none of it good.

It just amazes me the good (junk) in a scrap yard.

A friend came over this morning he told me there was an R model being cut up in a parking lot at a local scrap yard so I took a drive over there and got some pretty good deals on parts I needed. My right side vent window has virtually no rubber gasket left on it the scrap truck had a right side vent window with a new rubber gasket ten dollars for the complete window and gasket got all the fuel tank hangers for ten dollars each which need to be replaced on my truck too. Truck was pretty bombed out slim pickens otherwise but it had all the drive line intact except for the engine and trans looks like it could have been an automatic the tower was still in the cab.

There was a couple of them at the auction I bought my mack from they bought all the other trucks that were there as long as they didn't go over their 4500-5000 dollar limit they got a beat up CH and some beat up petes and fords.

There is a real nice black dash for sale on ebay right now.

Dodge still makes some real short wheel base trucks used as airforce tugs most have low miles and a 6BT cummins.

You can find lots of parts for macks on ebay some at pretty reasonable prices I buy lots of parts for mine there.

Went to Woodstock today with our head mechanic and another driver and drove one of the two CH trucks welch bros bought at an auction up there not bad trucks one with a 427 the other with a 350 neither had over 325,000 on the odometer. Not a fan of CH trucks but rode nice with full air ride aluminum wheels all the way around nice clean interiors the one I drove back was all set up to pull a powder wagon.

The biggest drawback was the light 10500 pound axle on the front of my truck I believe these parts will fit on a #12000 or larger axle.

The gunite people were the ones that gave me the incorrect hub number to begin with that is what that link is for mine didn't cross so I called the headquarters 50 miles west of me. I cant get a straight answer when I tell the parts guys the size of the bore of the bearings as to which axle they will fit that go into the hubs I have some parts guys that are great some that don't want to be bothered maybe its a time issue where they have better things to do. Fact is I now have two new hubs that wont work plus the studs that go into them about 650 dollars worth of parts which I stand to loose over a hundred dollars on with return shipping and restocking fees so the axle swap is more economical I should have done it that way to begin with and I would have been money ahead.

I have given up with dead ends and people who say they will call back and it never happens Im going to buy a whole front axle with piloted hubs next week an hour and half drive from here and I will be done with it.

I will give it a try thanks if all else fails the truck salvage yard in des moines has several take out axle beams for sale.

I have a dilemma I wanted to convert my front Dayton hubs to hub piloted front wheels I called gunite and told them my hub number and they came back with a HF819K hub for the conversion. I shopped around and got a great deal on the hubs they arrived and are the same size length wise but the bearings and races are considerably larger and wider. The new hubs take a 555S outer and a 6461A inner bearing which is for a considerably larger spindle where the old daytons took a bower 3877 outer and a bower 3982 inner bearing. My truck has a 10500 pound front axle which has a smaller spindle and bearing combination is there a place to find out which mack axle spindle uses these larger bearing combination where I could get a used axle beam instead of returning all these parts I cant believe gunite was so far off on their conversion. When I gave them the hub number cast into one of the spokes they even said it was their number they made the hub for mack and the HF819K hub was a direct replacement any suggestions here is a picture of the size difference between the outer bearings the smaller being the one off my truck.?

Maybe if they left him go alone he wouldn't come back we couldn't be that lucky.

I just checked and they are trying to find the wear plates that are missing there is a parts guy at mack who seems to like puzzles he has been very helpful in the quest for parts for this truck however long it takes he manages to find the pictures for me in an old crash book the body lines match the hood now like they are supposed to.

Check on gov deals they have a good number of nice old rigs come up for sale directly from the departments that own them.

I finally got a diagram you are right they never had rubber on them they are a guide but as the truck gets older the fiberglass has a tendency to sag inward with the weight of the fenders and the hood rubs the firewall. I bought some one inch rubber pads and cut them to fit and bolted them on they look like they could have been stock the hood rides perfect now also the top rubber rests were a little worn so I shimmed them the hood rides perfect like the thing just left the factory. In all the years I drove a truck this was one of my pet peeves not keeping the hood adjusted right so every time you hit a bump the hood wouldn't slam into the firewall creating an irritating banging while I drove down the road not to mention the damage it does to both the hood and firewall.