68-f-model

I'll have to double check that tonight. I might have miss took it for an air tank at a glance. Ah in scanning back through pictures on my phone, I believe Mike is correct I can see it under the left battery box.

They go straight into the engine block.

Am I just not seeing it but I can't seem to locate any type of oil filter on my Macks engine. Maybe some one more knowledgeable can point it out to me. Thanks

My first set of rims didn't have enough off set and hit the tie rod end. Then up popped a set of six with 385/65r22.5 tires on craigslist. It turns out it is 3 pairs each with a different offset. So now I had a choice and I chose the most offset (something like 5.5" from outside of rim to clamp ring) so I could have a "step" of sorts with the tire. Got them mounted up and clears everything by at least 2 inches. I'll have to wait to see how it drives till I get my oil lines replaced. Anyone know of any downside/ dangers with running this set up?

I have light blue, black and small yellow wires running up the door post. Not sure on the colors of wires on the key switch as mine are covered in woven insulation .

I can look in my f model and tell you what color wire goes where if you need . Just let me know

I hope it picks back up or the new electrical system sitting on my computer at work that I spent the last 6 months working on for the next generation cargo won't meet the projected volumes . It is going to cargo assembly plants in Brazil and Turkey.

The chain down job appears sufficient at least.

I think that the 215sb 164p3 180 degree crosses over to a NAPA 353-180 part. We shall see if I am right as they are shipping one in for me to compare.

What is the difference in the ESI and Pre ESI thermostats?

Replacing the water pump on my f model with a 237 . I pull the thermostat and head to Napa and all I get are blank stares back when they try looking it up in the books. There are no numbers on my old one to compare to. Can any of you guys recall what the part number I need is? Also possibly a part number for this hose as I am pretty sure the universal hose that was on it isn't right.

I'll stick with the classy jeep pickups an 1958 FC-170. I have evicted the tin worms for good via sandblasting and high zinc primer.

You can put in fuse replacement breakers or resettable fuses into the painless harness and remove the need for carrying spare fuses.

After having a small short/fire in the harness on my f- model it got me thinking I should replace the harness just to be safe. My question is has anyone ever used a Painless performance universal harness with say 20+ circuits on it and adapted it to a Mack? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-10104/overview/ This would net me two things not fearing leaving the batteries hooked up at night and all modern relays and fuses. I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work but maybe I am over looking something.

At least they're not the three piece rims , from what I can see. Two piece make me think twice , three piece I dread doing anything with. Once underdogs incident paint suddenly moved down the priority list and tubeless 22.5 rims shot to A1 priority.

Impressive those tires have lasted longer than most cars

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Reman-Mack-Transmission-T2130-or-T2180-13-or-18-speed-/301704880408?nav=SEARCH Rebuilt 13 / 18 speed Mack transmission

Found this one craigslist, some one needs to restore it: http://siouxcity.craigslist.org/cto/5114436505.html Antique 4wd Mack Truck - $5000 (Jackson, NE)1941 4 wheel drive Mack truck Model NJU. Original 532 cubic inch engine. Needs restoring. Collector truck. Only 692 of these trucks were built and originally listed as "topographical tractor". Front winch. Old wrecker truck.

Found this on craigslist: http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/5133117553.html 1970 Mack R 600 300 motor 5 speed wet kit good tires runs good 5500 OBO 765 438 1938

I have a source for the 8.25x22.5 rims for the change over so that is covered. The tires were on a motor home that was stored indoors. Despite being cheap on some things I don't want to have to worry about tires coming apart or rotting from the inside. At his price it was awfully tempting to take the cheap route. But I'll just bite the bullet and order 8 brand new Samson 11r22.5 GL293D (open shoulder tread) from Chicago Tire. At $2,730 on my door step I don't think that is to bad. I considered retreads but on a truck that doesn't go 10,000 miles a year I think I want the newest caseings I can get not some already half through their life. Also with the recent posts about the bandag failures on here I would trust a retread about as much as a 10+ year old tire.

Just called and talked to the seller. The tires have a date code of 2004. I am thinking I should pass on them and find something newer, am I right? How old can semi tires be and still be expected to be safe for use?? I know for car tires they say 5 years.

Well it is just a toy that will never see snow, mud and grass on the other hand it will probably see. I think for the price I will give them a try. Then if they end up to bad on grass I'll just have to pull out the old tire groover and turn them into more of a lug tire.

What is the opinion on Michelin Pilot XZA1 295/80r22.5 152/148m tires as drive tires? I can get a set of eight with only 30,000 miles on them for a steal. I figure they would at least be better than the ancient 10.00-20's that are on my truck now.

Looking for a set of crank up landing gear for my trailer. Just getting a little tired of bottle jacks and wood blocks. Closer to Michigan the better I guess, let me know if you have some.

Your tire issues have me seriously reconsidering using the 8.25r15's that came on my trailer. I am thinking for piece of mind I'll go to the tubeless 17.5 if the budget allows.