Bigjohn4300

Yea he was kinda a jerk once someone located the truck for him

Btw the trans in this truck is a 4500rds, not a 3 series, that model, in that year truck, was available from Mack behind the 427 and lower ratings, but the 300 and 375 versions were supposed to be mapped for best performance behind the allison.

I think I'm going to try the 375, but I believe I'm going to want more in the end. If it was a truck that the drivers use, I would be reluctant, but it's only me, the repair bill check writer (and my personal truck) so I believe it wouldn't be abused. My local Allison shop head tech is a personal friend from high school, he feels confident, on this model Allison, to around 1700 foot lbs owner driven

On the passenger side, standing on the ground, there is a rubber sleeve that couples the A/C blower discharge duct to the inlet side of the evaporator, a Phillips screwdriver and a few minutes time removing the inlet duct(slide the rubber to the right or left to allow the removal of the duct, can't remember which way) and your staring at the inlet side of the evaporator, which I'll bet a donut on, is nearly 100% plugged. Clean it with a vacuum or wash it in place. One of my old drivers likes riding with the window down, A/C on, dusty air through a cold evap coil, damp from the S.Louisiana air makes a muddy mess! I have to clean his every few months, complaint from him? A/C not hardly blowing

That would be great, I've been told 427 up is where it it takes iron over electronics

Yup that would be her! I like the ole gal, tough as nails, but when she is tagging the excavator, she is around 81k, could use a bit more umph, but when she is at 81, and not pulling, it's dangerous because it's unpredictable, you may pull out and be fine, or you may pull out with maybe 100 hp and that seat pucker factor comes into play

Yup that would be her! I like the ole gal, tough as nails, but when she is tagging the excavator, she is around 81k, could use a bit more umph, but when she is at 81, and not pulling, it's dangerous because it's unpredictable, you may pull out and be fine, or you may pull out with maybe 100 hp and that seat pucker factor comes into play

Mackpro, my last 6 is 010433 on a 04 cv713, and thanks a million ahead of time! MackTechnician, im going to try to get a rock 5 inch exhaust with a pyro port, can i consider 900 degrees a safety point not to exceed??

Ok, thanks!

Thanks for the CCRS schooling! Has any issues been noted when using a non-AI exhaust manifold without the 460-high heat center section on a motor with tune, injectors and turbo? And I caught something rereading the whole post this time, I've been having an intermittent low power issue where I get low boost, low power, then suddenly, like a switch is flipped, engine pitch changes, turbo spools and the missing power is back, like what was being described as pinched fuel line in the post, sounds like a software update may be needed

I have a 04 granite, my buddy has a 07 granite(cv not gu) and I like the headlights on his, anyone know if the 07cv hood will fit a 04? Im re painting this fall and would like to get the newer style lights

Ok ok, if this ground wire connection is bad, it kills the whole panel?(except air press) I'm fighting a dead panel on an 04 granite, I can wiggle or side load the plug on the back and get it to hit and miss, but it's all or none(gauges/lights/buzzer) and I wasn't sure what to look to

Did Grand Rock assign part numbers that others could use to put the 5 inch on other AI applications? And what does CCRS stand for?

Btw I might not have fully explained, since imma have the manifold off for gasket change, ideal time to change to non AI exhaust manifold right?

2004 granite AI300, getting ready to change the exhaust manifold gasket. I've read on here that the AI motors use a smaller more restrictive (maybe for more back pressure for the AI EGR dual bump cam?) manifold and that replacing it with a non-AI manifold reduces oil sooting and helps exhaust flow (bigger injectors coming!) does anyone know what part number I should buy for this?

Haven't been on in a while, should have posted what it was, AIR COMPRESSOR failed introducing air into the cooling system, new compressor-no issues now

Imma be watching this post, I've been wondering the same

Ok so the code is for the brake, good I guess, I'll start looking this weekend, any idea what the "engine brake disable" relay in the fuse panel is for?

This was a cement truck previously, the additional circuit tied into cruise ran to back of frame drivers side, I think it was to control idle speed on site, wires were cut to remove mixer

Ok getting somewhere, found a circuit tied into the cruise circuit, I think a remote throttle setup for the trucks previous duty, removed it and now we have power to both systems, cruise works correctly, but still no engine brake, switch is lit when it is on, but no brake, I can also now pull up a code 3-5 via cruise/lightening bolt, any ideas?

I have operated Allison equipped refuse trucks that went to neutral automatically then the park was set, I was told that many one man trucks were being left in gear when the driver jumped out to sling, it was both a safety and economy issue, the safety issue is obvious, especially some of the very low geared ones(mid 5 to low 6 ratios) could pull through the park brakes if poor adj or worn bad, but I had to be shown on one of the newer granites that fuel consumption at dead idle increased several points in GPH in gear vs neutral. I'm not taking up for this fellow one bit, both of these are his mistake, just mentioning that some out there do exactly what he asked if I understood his question correctly

Yes, tried with cruise switch off, appears to have no power to the switches, will start tracing wires to the switches when I get a second, found a breaker that is unlabeled, but is hot as a firecracker, that may be the feed to those two controls and has shorted out, maybe

I'm not positive on that, I'll try it again tomorrow morning, thanks

ive purchased a 2004 granite, 300 hp, Allison tandem dump setup. Tonight after a short running period (5 minutes max) after I shut down the motor, the aluminum coolant reservoir began overflowing and I heard what sounded like water moving around in the block and some of the cooling system components. The oil filters were barely warm to the touch, and the temperature gauge had barely moved off the cold mark, yet the reservoir was emmiting what appeared to be steam and water, the cap was pressurized as well. Im not sure what is going on, nor do I understand where the level should be in this reservoir. I am familiar with the split tank system in the RDs but not this one.Do you keep the level at the sight glass at the lower part of the tank? Is there no overflow tank? or is mine missing?