RedBullDog

Bad cell in a battery probably

It's a trolley brake lever. It allows for operation of the trailer brakes independently of the tractor service brakes. I use mine all the time to hold trailer when dumping.

I think its the other way around, Max is recirculated air and normal is outside air, unless Mack is different from IH.

Hot oil psi for 1996 E7-400 as per tune up manual:

Idle: 10-30 psi

Governed speed: 34-64 psi

Quite a big variable for pressures. Were there several different oil pumps used, or are those CYA ranges from engineers?

If I'm on 2 lane highways and such, where i'm running a few clicks slower, my oil temps run between the 200 and 210 marks. That few degrees gains a few psi too.

Fixing to order the factory fan override switch and install it. Mack shop says they will need to reprogram something after I put in the switch. Long grades, summertime idling, and evening cool down time are much better if you can turn the fan on. This is the first truck I have owned that didn't come with an override.

As of now, I'll cruise it at 1600 rpm on the long drive back this weekend from Wisconsin. 10 speed Fuller BTW. Anyone want to hazard a guess, or know the math, on what speed I can expect? 60 or a bit above is my guess.

62 mph at 1600

What is your oil temp when you see 40 psi at 1600. The reason I ask is my 2001 460 will run just beyond 40 at 1600 when turnpike driving and oil temps get around 210. 15 at hot idle.

The other day there was a stout cross wind and oil temps hung around at 220 or 225, wish there was a fix to drop oil temps,but I keep hearing that 210 and around is normal.

My 01 is set up similarly with 4.42 rears and tall 24.5's. The difference being mine has a Mack 2180 trans now. According to the mack parts computer mine was born with 4.17's and an Eaton 18. I don't know why all the changes, but I do like the setup. The eaton od ratio isn't as "tall" as the mack (.73 or .75 vs .71)

I run 63 at 1500 rpms, 68 mph at 1600. Odd as it seems 1600 is one or two tenths better on fuel than 1500 on the turnpike. Having a cruise rpm closer to 1700 like you said might be past any fuel sweet spot though. If your grossing up to 90k you will probably want your rpms to be in the 15-1600 range. If mine pulls much under 1400, its flat on its face.

Valve lash settings should be on the plate on the top of the back valve cover. Thats where mine is.

I ran 50 weight in my fuller trans in the international I used to run, but Mack says 80/90 for my 2180. Thats what they put in the new trans at install,80/90 dino oil. The 80/90 is better for the Mack type synchros and splitter is what my Mack shop said.

It looks like the wrecker worked well for the load swap, but it probably wasn't cheap. I need to borrow your giant woman to clean windshield and windows in the mornings.

Can't really help on the air ride question, but I would say 2 years on shocks on a on/off road truck is really good.

The air dump on my Mate frameless is automatic. It's located under the center of the trailer and as the trailer goes up, after a foot or less, the plunger is no longer depressed and the air springs deflate. Works like a charm.

Lovely lil Mate trailer. I've got a 2005 39 footer I bought over the holidays, but thought it must be the only one they ever built. Its a super trailer, just not real popular in this area. Are you going to keep that burgandy color when you respray?

Back when i was trying to figure out what gearing to look for while truck shopping I used this calculator. http://www.csgnetwork.com/rearendgearcalc.html

11/22.5s are 42 inch tires, 11/24.5s are 44.

I got my truck back this morning from the local Mack house. Had them install ReMack t2180b, clutch, and rear seal. Quiet in every gear now, and range shift works, and no leaks.

Found out last month that the ol girl was originally a mutt. Built new with Eaton 18 with Mack 4.17s. Someone swapped that setup for a Mack 18, and 4.42s. Anyway, the transmission had a few issues like bearings squalling, oil leaking from every possible point, and as of about 10 days ago, range synchro going away. Went in and priced out parts and labor for these repairs, and to go with the ReMack and 2 year warranty was just not very much higher. Good Deal, I like an easy choice.

The truck is back to growing on me again.

If the 2180B is a slow reverse, I couldn't fatham the non B. Glad to have a lo lo reverse again..

$830!!! Man, thats reasonable. Mines 5 inch all the way (01 etech 460) and its single muffler. Finally got it home from Mack this morning and looked,(couldn't remember )

I've gotten so used to pricing stupid wastegated variable geometry turbos for Cats that a simple one seems like a steal now.. Keep us updated.

my e-7 460 likes to be kept above 1350-1400 or it falls on it face.

+1, and the 18 makes it easier

I've actually been studying this on my end too lately. I've been running the same run 2 or three times a day for a month or so. This has allowed me to try something different each time across a hill or through the same area again and again. Before I bought this truck, most of my driving was behind a yellow motor, so "lug it down and stay in that hole" was what I got used to. The E7 seems to really find its stride at an RPM that the yellow motor was kinda wound out at. Mack seems to make good power around 1400 to 1650, and it seems like running it up to 17-1800 before shifting in the taller gears really helps too. Keeping it around 1600 cruising in tall gear seems to make better fuel mileage too, as opposed to the 1500 I was originally trying to run the thing at. I split a gear going up hill at 1400 but that only runs it up to 1650 or a little less, If I grabbed a "whole" gear pulling hills, probably wind down to 1300. When I was bs'ing with some guys at the mack house The other day while truck was in, they acted like 1600 rpm cruise speed was about right and fuel figures seem to bear that out. Hope this wasn't a hijacking, just a brain dump

That would work. If your muffler is straight through 4 it wouldn't be a bad neckdown. How much is the new turbo?

If its making that boost at 1300 and holding it all the way up, then you sure wouldn't have any lag problems with a slightly larger turbo. The downpipe and muffler wouldn't be a major cost. The turbo itself is where the cost is.

Have you ever put a larger guage in place of the one in the dash for test purposes, it looks like that one pegs out.

The turbo upgrade should improve the engine's efficiency, but how long is it going to take to recoup the cost of a turbo and exhaust upgrade, if the only reason is to save money(increase mpg). If the new turbo is much larger it could have some turbo lag and cause the truck to not feel as peppy. I've seen this before, putting larger turbos on smaller displacement engines.

I maybe thinking a little wrong, but if your current turbo is/was too inefficient, you wouldn't make good power without the restrictive turbo creating heat.

If your exhaust temps are in the 7-800 range and it isn't heating up at half throttle, then my opinion would be 5 inch is a waste of time and money. The question is, are you happy with the current power? A larger turbo is going to flow better, but that is a lot of expense for the horsepower. If you upgrade the turbo, a wastegated one might be a good idea.

My mower has a cupholder but every particle of dust and blade of grass comes out the chute and straight into the "beverage" thats in there. maybe thats why some people use a bagger